Taking advantage of these warm sunny London skies that we are currently experiencing ‘dahn saaf’ this early Autumn – my London Shoes headed off to my beloved East End and a particular spot on the River Thames, for the purpose of finding and exploring the strangely named…..”WAPPING OLD STAIRS”…….and what a good little trip out it was too.
Wapping is located on the northern banks of the River Thames – it sits more or less halfway between Canary Wharf and Tower Bridge.
Historic records show that there were settlements there as far back as the 1200’s.
Wapping is a district with historically strong maritime connections. It was once a critical and very important part of the River, at a time when the Thames was the gateway to trade from all over the globe – with ships sailing in and out of London for centuries.
When the Docks were eventually killed off, Wapping descended into becoming a very a run down and neglected area – I particularly remember it being like that when I used to occasionally drink down there in the early/mid 1970’s.
However – following the constant redevelopment of London’s old dockland locations, the Wapping of today is a completely different animal to the place it once was – it’s now a very desirable area to live, with expensive luxury apartments everywhere.
However – the interesting thing about Wapping is that it has retained a lot of its past and historic nautical related fixtures and fittings – all of which contributes to its attraction for tourists and for visitors looking for a good night out in slightly different surroundings.
“WAPPING OLD STAIRS”.
Wapping Old Stairs are quite simply a set of stone steps leading down from Wapping High Street – onto the banks of the River Thames.
Public records exist that show this particular set of stairs date back to the 16th Century, and most probably a lot earlier.
These ‘Stairs’ were ideal for people arriving and leaving London via the River Thames – and were often referred to as “Waterman’s Stairs” – and there were once loads of ‘Stairs’ scattered along the Thames shoreline.
Smaller cargo’s could be loaded/unloaded and then easily transferred on to the awaiting barges on the canal networks that existed around the Docks.
These ‘Stairs’ were also the ideal locations in the transportation of illegal smuggling – as contraband could be loaded/unloaded and whisked away in secret, in the dark of the night.
It is believed that ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ were the actual steps that prisoners/pirates/mutineers/smugglers were led down towards the site of “Execution Dock” on the northern banks of the River at Wapping.
Wapping Old Stairs are still in situ today – and can even be clearly seen in their full glory from Rotherhithe, across the other side of the River (eg the ‘Dark Side’).
The ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ are situated at the end of a narrow alley that runs alongside the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub. The green slimey sea-weedy ancient old stone steps lead down to a shingle ‘beach’ (when the tide is out) – where ‘Mudlarkers’ often congregate to scour the shoreline in search of historic artifacts and treasures (and apparently, there are many) washed up by the strong Thames tides.
Descending “Wapping Old Stairs” and standing on the ‘Beach’ gave ‘London Shoes’ a strange old feeling – as I find these sort of scenarios often do – as I can’t help but think of all the thousands upon thousands of people throughout the past centuries that would have used the exact stairs I was standing on – no wonder its stone steps are so worn.
My personal view I know – but I often liken the scenario of standing on an exact historic spot as ‘standing on the shoulders of giants’ – as I think of what went before – and hopefully, what will continue.
Anyway – when I got to the bottom of Wapping Old Stairs I took advantage of the tide being out, and spent some time on the sunny Wapping shoreline – taking in the views east and west down the Thames – chatting to a ‘Mudlarker’ – and scouring the shingle to see if I could spot anything of historical interest, like an old clay pipe or an arrow head or perhaps an old florin or two – but no – all I found were some sea shells.
So – having explored Wapping Old Stairs and its surrounding shoreline under warm sunny London skies – it was time for a little liquid refreshment – and where better to have ‘cheeky’ beer than the pub that the alley leading to Wapping Old Stairs, runs alongside – the historic “Town of Ramsgate” in Wapping High Street.
Records show that there has been a pub on the current site of the Town of Ramsgate, since the 1400’s – so I guess it’s quite possible that Henry VIII might have been a regular.
Previous names of the pub have been the ‘War of the Roses’ (1400’s) – ‘The Red Cow’ (1500’s). In the mid 1700’s it became the ‘Ramsgate Old Town’.
In 1811 the pub acquired its current name – the “Town of Ramsgate”.
It was named after the fishermen from Ramsgate in Kent who used to use Wapping Old Stairs to unload and sell their catches – to avoid paying the river taxes that would have been imposed had they taken their catch further up the Thames to Billingsgate Fish Market at the heart of the City of London.
Wapping took a massive hit from German bombs in WW2 but miraculously the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ totally avoided any destruction.
Apparently, the Pub cellars were once used to house prisoners before they met their fate at Execution Dock – or – before they were transported off to the colonies.
Ramsgate Harbour is seen prominently in the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub sign. The pub itself a lovely old boozer – well kept – well run and the place reeks of its famous historic past. London Shoes thoroughly enjoyed a couple of ‘cheeky’ ones in there.
Like all the other pubs along Wapping High Street – the Town of Ramsgate is well worth a visit if you ever find yourself doing the ‘Thames Path’ in the E1 district.
Interestingly, there are several more of these historic ‘Stairs’ in situ along the Thames, especially along this particular section of the River – there’s even a ‘Wapping New Stairs’ -and that’s got ‘history’ too. Anyway – my London Shoes will no doubt look to seek these out for future blog postings.
So – that’s ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ for you and the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub – I hope the accompanying photos helped bring this interesting little story to life.
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See below the entire gallery of photos taken to support this blog topic
Me – outside Rotherhithe Overground Railway Station – Saaf of the River
A view from the southern banks of the River Thames looking across the water to the site of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
A closer view of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ from across the River – at Rotherhithe
An old photo from the 1940’s – looking at the same view – ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – from Rotherhithe….south of the River
Me – on the southern banks of the Thames, at Rotherhithe.
A view of the City – from the southern banks of the River Thames at Rotherhithe
Wapping Overground Station – situated in Wapping High Street – London E1
There’s a ‘Thames Path-Walk’ – that goes right from Canary Wharf – all the way to Tower Bridge – that takes you past places like Wapping
The cobbled streets of Wapping – once a very run down area – but these days the old dock warehouses and buildings have all been converted into luxury apartments
Another street scene of Wapping
An old photo of Wapping Streets – all the warehouses and dock related buildings have now been developed into luxury apartments
Constant redevelopment of the old warehouses, means that today, Wapping is a completely different place to what it once was. Its now a very desirable area to live, with expensive luxury apartments everywhere
Another street scene of Wapping as it is these days
Another street scene of Wapping as it is these days
There is also – a ‘Wapping New Stairs’
The old cobbled streets of Wapping have most certainly seen a bit of life and could most certainly tell a tale or two
Another street scene of Wapping as it is these days
Now – do they mean flying one or mechanical ones ???
The famous “Town of Ramsgate” pub in Wapping High Street. Records show that there has been a pub on the current site of the Town of Ramsgate since the 1400’s
The ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub in Wapping High Street was named after the fishermen from Kent who used to use Wapping Old Stairs to unload and sell their catches – to avoid paying the river taxes that would have been imposed had they taken their catches to Billingsgate Fish Market further up-river at the Pool of London.
A narrow alley runs alongside the Town of Ramsgate pub – and leads to ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
The alley that leads to ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – looking back onto Wapping High Street
The same alley that leads to ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – but looking from Wapping High Street towards the top of the ‘Stairs’.
‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – looking down onto the River Thames
At the bottom of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – looking up to the top of the ‘Stairs’.
Me – at the bottom of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
An old photo of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ – from the 1940’s
‘Wapping Old Stairs’ as they are today – and have been for a few centuries
Me – on the ‘Beach’ – the northern shoreline of the River Thames – at thye bottom of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
Views to the River Thames looking eastwards – with a few ‘Mudlarkers’ – along the shoreline at the bottom of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
The view looking to the West – from the Thames shoreline at the bottom of ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
The old wharf fixtures and fittings – surrounding ‘Wapping Old Stairs’
The results of my little bit of ‘Mudlarking’……2 shells !!!
Me – on the northern shoreline of the River – at Wapping – from the bottom of Wapping Old Stairs
The ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub as it is these days
The ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub as it is was – back in the 1950’s
Ramsgate Harbour can be seen prominently in the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub sign.
Me – outside the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub – Wapping High Streeet
Inside the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub – Wapping High Street
Inside the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub – Wapping High Street
Having explored ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ and its surrounding shoreline, it was time for a little liquid refreshment – so where better to have ‘cheeky’ beer than the pub that the alley leading to Wapping Old Stairs, runs alongside – the historic “Town of Ramsgate” in Wapping High Street.
Me – having knocked back a ‘cheeky’ Peroni in the ‘Town of Ramsgate’ pub in Wapping High Street – and from where ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ lead down to the Thames.
Fascinating as usual!
Excellent write up. Amazing what you find down alleyways
Wonderful photos
On my list now thanks Geoff 😁
Fabulous as always.
They are not ‘cobbles’ on the road – they are setts
There are ‘ways and means’ Frank, of being pedantic. Perhaps start with an acknowledgment of an interesting write up and then a gentle and perhaps slightly humorous mention of the ‘alleged’ inaccuracy. Do some practice ol’ chum 🙂
Another good blog, and how interesting to see how high the high tide mark is, if you know what I mean!! I would definitely have loved to have been a mudlarker!!
I really enjoyed reading this. It made me think of how my mum always pronounced Wapping Old Stairs with the emphasis on the ‘Old’.
So enjoy your walks and yes when i am historically sites I always think of all the people before and there lives it’s like a unsolved mystery – Cheers from Canada
Really interesting Geoff….my finding Wapping from nth London came about in 1962…on my Lambretta visiting a young lady….so I saw the area before transformation…looking back St Kaths dock was derelict…the place was so different to my nw9….I’ve been back wandered from the tower, up down, the old stairs tide out…tide in…as you say so much history….and atmosphere, great photos and info…..
Great blog – I visited ‘Wapping Old Stairs’ once when the tide was very high and got my feet wet because I was so curious
Fantastic photographs – well done
This is a wonderful post and I will do this walk next visit to London- thanks 😊
How very interesting! Your photos are wonderful. Thank you for posting!!
Great article and great pics.
My old grandad was a member of the Home Guard in the Second World War and his responsibility was guarding the steps on a nightly basis.
Must have been very scary with German bombers coming across and bombing the docks..
Thanks again.