Author Archives: Geoff Clements

The legendary “Bud Flanagan” – from ‘cradle-to-grave’ – (an east-end boy done good)

Posted on by Posted in Music, People .

 

(image courtesy of ‘discogs’)

‘Chaim Reuben Weintrop’ (aka Bud Flanagan) was born in October 1896 at no.12 Hanbury Street in the Spitalfields district of Whitechapel, deep in the heart of London’s east-end.

His parents Wolf & Yetta Weintrop fled to England following the persecution of Jews in their native Poland.

They had paid good money to escape to New York in the USA – however, they had been duped by a ‘moody’ ticket, and as a result they ended up in the east-end of London, a regular haven for Jewish and other immigrants fleeing persecution in Europe.

The Weintrop’s settled at no.12 Hanbury Street in impoverished and run down Spitalfields, where they raised 10 children-5 boys and 5 girls.

Flanagan’s father Wolf, ran his own fish & chip shop business from 12 Hanbury Street, and later on he owned a barbers and a sweetshop in the same area.

In his 1961 biography ‘My Crazy Life’, Bud Flanagan doesn’t look back at his childhood in the Spitalfields/Whitechapel districts, with rose-tinted glasses – he tells it like it was, a place where only the strong survived and the weak went to the wall.

He describes the atmosphere living amongst the streets of run down housing – the doss houses, the pubs, the market stalls, the Salvation Army hostels, the Truman Brewery, the tobacco factories, the umbrella shops – and the destitute, the prostitutes and the drunks on street corners and in alleys throughout streets such as Brick Lane-Wheeler Street–Club Row & Commercial Street.

Flanagan recalls that even in the family fish & chip shop in Hanbury Street, the salt pots had to be chained to the counter and tables, otherwise they would’ve been nicked.

Next door to the family’s Hanbury Street home/shop, was a blacksmith who used to re-shoe the many horses that were used by the districts local industries, particularly the breweries – and Bud Flanagan recalled that the sound of the blacksmith banging away at the anvil, was a constant daily noise from 7am to 7pm.

One of the popular escapes from the drudgery of life for the common working man was the Theatre – and fortunately London in those times, was full of Theatres.

Just around the corner from the family’s Hanbury Street home, in Commercial Street, was the famous ‘Cambridge Music Theatre’, where ‘variety’ acts and music hall acts would regularly perform.

As a youngster, Bud Flanagan was a bit of a hustler, and at the age of 10 he got a job as a ‘runner’ or ‘call-boy’ as they used to be known as, for the old actors and performers working the Cambridge Music Theatre – where he would quite simply run errands for the performers, such as getting them cigarettes, or booze or food, mainly anything they may have wanted, between their performances.

For his reward, Flanagan received tips from the artists for carry out their errands – and very soon had saved up enough money to be able to trot off to the famous ‘Gamages’ store in Holborn, to purchase conjuring props and equipment – as he had always wanted to be a conjurer, and regularly performed magic tricks to his friends in the neighbourhood.

At the age of 12 Bud Flanagan made his stage debut in a talent show at the nearby ‘London Music Hall’ in Shoreditch, where he was billed as “Fargo-the boy Wizard”. He didn’t win the contest, but the experience put him firmly on the road to being a full-time music variety entertainer.

One strong memory that Flanagan had from his early years was hanging around the many ‘arches’ within the Spitalfields streets that were created where bridges were built over the streets to carry the railway tracks into nearby Liverpool Street Station.

One particular ‘arch’ was situated in a side street just down the road from the Cambridge Music Theatre in Commercial Street.

Flanagan observed that when the big American acts started to come to Britain and fill the theatres – there would be loads of British performers congregating under these ‘arches’ practicing the material and styles of delivery, that the Americans were performing, in an effort to improve their own acts, which might perhaps move them a little further up the Bill.

In 1910 aged just 14, a hungry for success and adventure Bud Flanagan, stowed away on a ship bound for New York – the destination that his parents had originally wanted to flee Poland for.

Throughout his time in New York, Flanagan managed to get work with various vaudeville acts – and ended up touring the USA, and apparently even further afield, sailing off to countries such as New Zealand Australia.

However, in 1915 Bud Flanagan sailed back to Britain to enlist in the Royal Field Artillery and fight for his country in WW1.

Two important things happened whilst Flanagan was fighting at the ‘front’, that would be pivotal in Bud’s forthcoming career.

Firstly, while fighting in Flanders, he made friends with another young soldier who had aspirations of being a professional entertainer – his name was Chesney Allen.

(image courtesy of ‘discogs’)

Secondly, whilst serving in the Royal Field Artillery, Bud Flanagan was under the charge of a Sgt Major ‘Flanagan’ – who made Bud’s life a total misery by bullying and persecuting him for being a Jew.

Bud Flanagan swore to himself that one day he would get revenge by belittling and making a mockery of the Sgt Major’s surname in some way or another – hence the change of name from Chaim Reuben Weintrop to ‘Bud Flanagan’.

Having returned from WW1, Bud Flanagan teamed up with his old ‘front-line’ colleague Chesney Allen, and they decided to create their own act based on song and comedy – calling themselves “Flanagan & Allen”.

Flanagan & Allen had a unique kind of singing style and delivery, where Bud Flanagan would be the principal singer, banging out the melody – whilst Chesney Allen accompanied him by basically ‘talking’ the lyrics – a style that made them extremely popular with the general public.

As well as just singing, the Flanagan & Allen duo also teamed up with a few other popular comedy performers of the day, to form the ‘Crazy Gang’, an act that performed sort of archaic comedy routines – and very popular with the public.

The ‘Crazy Gang’ as a collective, and ‘Flanagan & Allen’ as a singing duo, were the sort of acts that were everyone’s favourites – and they were soon signed up by the leading promotor/manager of the day, Val Parnell – an arrangement that got them working all the top theatres in London and throughout Britain – and ‘regulars’ on the Royal Variety Shows at the London Palladium, where it is said that the Crazy Gang and Flanagan & Allen were a particular favourite of the old Queen Mum.

During WW2 Flanagan & Allen churned out many hit records with songs that became extremely popular with the general public, as their lyrics often touched upon the simple pleasures of home life and the importance of companionship and love and happy memories – with songs like:-
*Underneath the Arches
*Run Rabbit Run
*Maybe it’s because I’m a Londoner
*Strollin’
*Round the back of the Arches
*Home Town
*The Umbrella Song
*Down Forget-Me-Not Lane
Plus many more, including the favourite wartime parody ‘We’re going to hang out the washing on the Siegfried Line’

All of these songs brought joy and happiness and encouragement to the ordinary people, and their loved ones fighting overseas – during the dark days of WW2.

Flanagan & Allen were one of the top acts around throughout the 1930’s & 1940’s – with their distinctive sound and appearance, with Chesney Allen in a ‘sharp’ suit and stylish hat – and Bud Flanagan often in an oversized fur coat and battered boater hat.

(image courtesy of ‘discogs’)

However, in 1945, Chesney Allen had to retire from performing for health reasons – which sadly saw the Flanagan & Allen partnership dissolve.

Bud Flanagan continued to perform as a solo act, and collectively with the Crazy Gang.

In 1956 Bud Flanagan and his loyal wife Ann ‘Curly’ Quinn, suffered tragedy when their only son ‘Buddy’ died of Leukaemia aged just 30.

By the mid to late 1950 and into the 1960’s, an aging Bud Flanagan’s showbiz career started to decline – and so he ploughed his money into buying a chain of betting shops, as he was passionate about horse racing and having a little ‘flutter’.

In 1959, Flanagan was awarded the OBE for his services to the entertainment business.

He was also made the ‘King Rat’ of the prestigious historic showbiz charity ‘The Grand Order of Water Rats’.

However, in 1968 – at the age of 72, Bud Flanagan became involved in a particular piece of work that would make his voice to become familiar with literally millions of people (and still does) – without the general public probably not being aware of him or knowing anything about him.

In 1968 legendary comedy writers Jimmy Perry & David Croft created a new TV comedy series entitled “Dad’s Army” – a sort of sit-com about a Home Guard company, operating during WW2.

However, the TV series needed a distinctive and catchy signature tune to catch the public’s imagination.

Jimmy Perry had already written the lyrics to a song he called “Who Do You Think You Are Kidding Mr. Hitler” – and approached one of his childhood singing idols ‘Bud Flanagan’ who he wanted to sing the programmes signature tune.

It is widely assumed that “Who Do You Think You Are Kidding Mr. Hitler” is an old song written during WW2 – but it is not – it was written in 1968, and it is Bud Flanagan’s interpretation and delivery of the song that gives the impression that it is a much older tune.

(image courtesy of ‘thenorthernecho.co.uk)

The song was recorded at London’s Riverside Studios during early 1968 – and sadly it was the very last piece of recorded material that Flanagan made – as sadly in October 1968, Bud Flanagan died of a heart attack at the age of 72.

He was so popular, it is said that over 100,000 people lined the streets of his funeral parade to the Golders Green Crematorium a well-known Jewish crematorium in north west London.

Following his death, an instruction in the administration of Flanagan’s estate was for the executors to set-up the “Bud Flanagan Leukaemia Fund” for the purposes of research into the disease that had taken the life of his only child ‘Buddy’.

The first part of the ‘Bud Flanagan Leukaemia Fund’ project was to set-up a ‘Bud Flanagan Ward’ at the Royal Marsden Hospital in Sutton-Surrey. This has now become the ‘Bud Flanagan Leukaemia Ward’ and continues to be one of the leading research and treatment centres for this awful disease – which is today, still funded by the Bud Flanagan legacy.

So – having walked through the mean streets of Spitalfields re-tracing the steps of Bud Flanagan’s early years – and then following his journey from ‘cradle-to-grave’ – it was time to stop-off for a well-earned ‘cheeky’ beer before setting off back home.

I decided to pop into to the “10 Bells” Pub in Spitalfields Commercial Street, situated right next door to the historic landmark of Christ Church, and a pub that itself is steeped in local history.

The current ’10 Bells’ pub building was built in 1851, but records show that there has been a pub of sorts on the site since 1755.

The ’10 Bells’ is associated with the infamous ‘Jack-the-Ripper’, as it is said to be the boozer where 2 of his victims Annie Chapman & Mary Kelly used to frequent before they met their gruesome deaths.

However, I’m fairly sure that those unfortunate ladies would be seen drinking in the pub today – not at those prices.

Hope you enjoyed finding out about Bud Flanagan – a real-life east-end boy done good, leaving a legacy of work that history will never forget.

Additional photos of the Bud Flanagan from ‘cradle-to-grave blog

 

The blue plaque displayed on the wall of no.12 Hanbury Street – London E1. The birthplace of who was to become the legendary entertainer ‘Bud Flanagan’

 

‘Flanagan & Allen’ – Bud Flanagan & Chesney Allen on stage at the height of their showbiz career (image courtesy of ‘thelondpnnobodysings.blogsot.com)

 

Hanbury Street – Spitalfields-Whitechapel – the street where Bud Flanagan was born in 1896

 

No.12 Hanbury Street – where Bud Flanagan was born in 1896 – and from where his father ran a fish & chip shop

 

12 Hanbury Street – the birthplace of Bud Flanagan – and next door was the ‘noisy’ blacksmith’s that Flanagan wrote about in his 1961 biography “My Crazy Life”

 

Me – outside 12 Hanbury Street – the birth place and family home of Bud Flanagan. Today its ‘Rosa’s a very popular oriental café

 

Hanbury Street leading into Brick Lane – deep in the heart of the Spitalfields district of London’s east-end

 

Views of Hanbury Street today

 

More views of Hanbury Street-London-E1 today

 

The old entrance to the ‘Truman, Hanbury, Buxton & Co Brewery in Brick Lane – right next to Hanbury Street, where Bud Flanagan was born – Bud Flanagan mentions the brewery sights & smells in his 1961 biography ‘My Crazy Life’

 

A close-up of the commemorative stone at the entrance to the ‘Truman, Hanbury, Buxton & Co Brewery in Brick Lane

 

The old Truman Brewery chimney – in Brick Lane-Whitechapel – that Bud Flanagan mentions in his 1961 biography ‘My Crazy Life’

 

The old ‘Godfrey Phillips Tobacco Factory’ – the smells of which Bud Flanagan clearly recalled from his childhood, and mentioned in his 1961 biography ‘My Crazy Life’

 

Me – outside the old ‘Godfrey Phillips Tobacco Factory’ – just off Commercial Street in the Spitalfields area of Whitechapel-E1

 

The famous Brick Lane-Whitechapel – with one of the old Truman Brewery buildings in the distance

 

The extremely busy Commercial Street-Spitalfields – with the historic east-end landmark of Christ-Church in the distance

 

An old early Victorian ‘flat-iron’ building in Commercial Street-E1

 

Me – having found a ‘zebra crossing’ in Hanbury Street

 

The street art of Hanbury Street-E1

 

More street art in the Hanbury Street-Brick Lane district of Whitechapel

 

More of the street art in the Hanbury Street-Brick Lane district of Whitechapel

 

The site of the old Cambridge Music Theatre’. Just around the corner from the family’s Hanbury Street home, in Commercial Street, was the famous ‘Cambridge Music Theatre’, where ‘variety’ acts and music hall acts would regularly perform.

 

On the far right, where Costa’s now stands – is the remnants of the old ‘Cambridge Music Theatre’ – and in the distance you can see the opening of the ‘arch’ where Bud Flanagan used to watch all the old time music hall entertainers, trying to practice the routines that the big time American acts were performing at the ‘Cambridge’

 

Walking towards the ‘Arch’ close to what was the ‘Cambridge Music Theatre’

 

The eastern entrance to the ‘Arch’ close to what was the ‘Cambridge Music Theatre’ where the young Bud Flanagan worked unofficially as a ‘call-boy’

 

Me – ‘Underneath the Arches’ – dreaming my dreams away :-))

 

 

‘Underneath the Arches’

 

Me – ‘Underneath the Arches’ – still dreaming my dreams away :-))

 

 

The Flanagan & Allen album ‘Arches & Umbrellas’ – influenced by the ‘Arch’ and ‘Umbrella shop’ in Flanagan’s home town (image courtesy of ‘discogs’)

 

Another popular ‘Flanagan & Allen’ album in its day (images courtesy of ‘discogs’)

 

One of the last ever photos taken of Bud Flanagan in 1968 whilst recording the Dad’s Army TV series theme tune “Who Do You Think You Are Kidding Mr.Hitler” – Bud Flanagan sadly died of a heart attack not long after

 

Bud Flanagan’s memorial stone at the Golders Green Crematorium in north-west London

 

A remarkable Bud Flanagan legacy – at the Royal Marsden Hospital in Sutton-Surrey – set-up and financed by the ‘Bud Flanagan Leukaemia Fund’, that the executors of his Will were instructed to set-up following Flanagan’s death in 1968

 

The ’10 Bells’ pub in Commercial Street in the Spitalfields district of Whitechapel. Todays pub was built in 1851, but records show that there has been a pub of sorts on the site since 1755. The ’10 Bells’ is associated with the infamous ‘Jack-the-Ripper’, as it is said to be the boozer where 2 of his victims Annie Chapman & Mary Kelly used to frequent before they met their gruesome deaths.

 

Me – neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one in the “10 Bells” pub – located in Bud Flanagan’s old Spitalfields ‘manor’ where he grew up

 

Finishing off a second cheeky beer in the “10 Bells” pub-Commercial Street – before legging it off home, with Bud Flanagan tunes in my head

 

 

 

 

 

The spectacular “Sky Garden” & the “Garden at 120” – of Fenchurch Street EC3

Posted on by Posted in Parks & Public Squares .

 

‘London Shoes’ doesn’t normally visit the more popular tourist attractions and landmarks of the big ‘Smoke’ – however, it made an exception this week, and ventured out to visit 2 locations, both under the same theme of ‘up on the roof’.

One of these locations has been around for the past 4 years, and is already a top attraction – the other has only been on-the-scene for a couple of months, but will no doubt soon become more popular, especially throughout the coming summer months.

So – this week’s ‘Shoes’ blog is all about my visit to the popular “Sky Garden” – and then, a couple of 100 yards further – to visit the newly opened Fen Court’s-“Garden at 120” – both of which are situated in the historic Fenchurch Street area of the City.

The “Sky Garden” itself sits on top of the instantly recognisable building at no.20 Fenchurch Street – a building more commonly known as the ‘Walkie Talkie’ because its design has the appearance of a communications handset.

The ‘Sky Garden’ building was opened in Jan 2013, at a cost of £200M, and with its 38 storeys, it is the 6th tallest building in London.

Its top 3 floors are dedicated to the ‘Sky Garden’ – and an interesting fact about this building is that it is the only location owned by the ‘Canary Wharf Group’, outside of the Isle of Dogs.

When it was completed it was advertised as the ‘building with more on top’ because its upper floors were bigger and wider that those below it – giving it its ‘walkie-talkie’ appearance.

However – shortly after the building had opened, a well publicised incident occurred which caused the building to acquire the new nickname the “Walkie Scorchie-Fryscaper”!!!

Basically, what happened was that for 2 hours of every day at the height of summer, the sun’s rays were reflecting off a number of the buildings concave windows and travelling down to the streets below. The light being reflected was 6 times stronger than direct sunlight and the heat radiated was so intense that it caused serious scorch damage to cars parked in the streets surrounding the building, plus it also completely frazzled a large doormat of one of the nearby shops.

To prevent further damage, the short term solution was to erect temporary screening at street level to deflect the sun’s rays away from the vehicles parked in the street.

To solve the problem long-term, specialists were flown in from California, who had experience of dealing with similar issues caused by buildings in the Las Vegas desert – these specialists installed special non-reflective film to all the buildings windows that were impacted by the sun at a certain time of day – and to date, that has done the trick.

The ‘Sky Garden’ itself, on the top 3 floors of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’, was formally opened to the public in 2015, and its magnificent 360’ uninterrupted panoramic views of the City of London (and way beyond) has made it one of London’s most popular tourist attractions.

Technically, the ‘Sky Garden’ is not really a ‘public’ garden as it’s not open to the public all the time, and its closes down quite a lot for ‘private’ functions – however its views are uniquely spectacular, as you can clearly see such City landmarks as St. Paul’s Cathedral – The Shard – the Tower of London – the Thames – some London Bridges – Westminster Cathedral – Houses of Parliament. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Alexandra Palace to the north west – the Crystal Palace aerial to the south – Wembley Stadium to the west – and Canary Wharf and beyond, to the east.

The other good thing about the ‘Sky Garden’ is that entry is absolutely ‘free’!!!

The only downside is that you have to book a reservation on-line in advance of a visit, and these reservations can only be booked at certain times of the month.

However, once you’ve been lucky enough to book a reservation for the date and time slot that you want, then once you have gained access to the Sky Garden, you can stay there for as long as you like – and, as well as the magnificent views from the top, there are also plenty of bars and restaurants up there to keep you watered and fed.

Well worth a visit for a couple of hours, to see the ‘Smoke’ from a position that you’ve probably never seen it before.

So – having spent an enjoyable time taking in all the spectacular views from up in the ‘Sky Garden’ – London Shoes wandered a few yards further down to 120 Fenchurch Street situated at ‘Fen Court’, to check out one of London’s newest roof-garden attractions, known formally as “The Garden at 120”.

“The Garden at 120” only opened in February this year – and sits on top of a new 15 storey office block.

The Garden is roughly the size of 8 tennis courts – and has an ornamental stream running through the middle of it.

With it being only 15 storeys high, the views from this Garden are obviously at a lot lower level that those from the Sky Garden – but in a way, that’s good thing, as you can get a more closer and detailed view the buildings and landmarks in front of you.

The ‘Garden’ area is tastefully laid out with palms, fruit trees and other plants – plus plenty of wisteria, which will look really colourful by the time summer is here.

With its neatly designed paved walkways and comfortable seating areas, the ‘Garden’ can comfortably accommodate up to 200 people – and one of the staff on duty up there, told me that work is already in progress to provide the Garden with a bar and restaurant.

Like the Sky Garden, ‘The Garden at 120’ is completely free to get in to, and you can stay up there for as long as you like. More importantly, you don’t have to go through the rigmarole of booking a reservation on-line and printing off tickets etc – you just rock-up and go in.

In my personal opinion, although at a lower-level view-wise, I found ‘The Garden at 120’ to be far more pleasant, comfortable and relaxing than the more popular and spectacular ‘Sky Garden’ – as I feel it has a much more chilled ‘vibe’ about it – but that’s probably because it had only been open a couple of weeks, and not heavily promoted, so probably not many people know of its existence yet.

One thing I did hear from a member of ‘The Garden at 120’ staff, was that the roof garden part of the building is only ‘on-trial’ at the moment, and therefore its long-term existence is not necessarily assured – so if you fancy a trip up there for a couple of hours, then it might be advisable to visit the excellent ‘The Garden at 120’ sooner rather than later. You certainly won’t be disappointed.

So – having spent a good few hours doing a ‘Drifters’ (they had the 1963 hit record ‘Up on the Roof’) – it was time to sink a couple of ‘cheeky’ beers before heading back home.

Now – from high up on roof of the ‘Sky Garden’ & also a bit lower down from the roof of ‘The Garden at 120’ – I could see this little pub in Fenchurch Street, and so I thought that now I was at ground-level, I would seek it out and pop in there to check it out.

The pub in question turned out to be the “East India Arms” – and I’m really pleased I sought it out as it’s a really interesting little boozer with tons of history behind it.

Historic records show that there has been a pub on its site as far back as 1645, when it was called ‘The Magpie Ale House’.

The present pub building was built way back in 1829 and was named the ‘East India Arms’ as it was bang next door to the HQ of the globally renowned ‘East India Company’ that dealt with the majority of Britain’s trade with the eastern world.

The pub has no formal connection with the East India Company, but it was no doubt frequented on a daily basis by the Company’s employees – and today a plaque is displayed on the its exterior walls, commemorating its close proximity to this famous Company.

This 4 storey pub building is typical of Georgian architectural design of the late 1700’s early 1800’s, and the bar of the ‘East India Arms’ is very small and narrow –no room for any tables & chairs – just stools, and shelving to place your flagon of ale on. Many of these old fixtures and fittings still exist inside the pub today, making it one of the oldest buildings in the historic Fenchurch Street district of London.

It’s the ideal pub to nip into for a quick snifter during a lunch break – and again at the end of the day for a quick ‘cheeky’ one before making the commute back home – which is exactly what I did.

Hope you found this piece interesting and that you enjoy the accompanying photos.

See blow some more photos taken from the “Sky Garden” & the “Garden at 120”

 

The “Sky Garden” itself sits on top of the instantly recognisable building at no.20 Fenchurch Street – a building more commonly known as the ‘Walkie Talkie’ because its design has the appearance of a communications handset

 

The ‘Sky Garden’ building was opened in Jan 2013, at a cost of £200M, and with its 38 storeys, it is the 6th tallest building in London.

 

Me – outside the ‘Sky Garden’ at no.20 Fenchurch Street

 

The Sky Garden – viewing platforms & restaurant/ bar area

 

Me – doing what’s known in the trade as a ‘Drifters’ (eg ‘Up on the Roof’ :-))

 

Views inside the Sky Garden

 

Views inside the Sky Garden

 

Views inside the Sky Garden

 

Views of the City and beyond from the Sky Garden

 

Views of the City and beyond from the Sky Garden. You can just about make out the Crystal Palace communication aerial in the far distance

 

A views of the Tower & the Thames

 

Views of the City and beyond from the Sky Garden

 

The good old River Thames flowing off to the west

 

Views of the busy City streets looking down from the Sky Garden

 

Views of the City and out to the ‘wonderful’ east & beyond from the Sky Garden – with my old workplace Canary Wharf in the distance

 

Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium – with the Alexander Place and it’s communications aerial, in the distance

 

Views of the City and beyond to the west – from the Sky Garden

 

Views of the City and beyond from the Sky Garden – the routes of the old city streets can be clearly seen

 

Views of the City to the east and beyond from the Sky Garden. At the very bottom of the photo, in the middle, you will see a small brown coloured building – that is the “East India Arms” pub

 

Eye Eye

 

A close-up of the BT Tower, bang in the middle of London’s west-end

 

Tower Bridge – from the ‘Garden at 120’

 

Zoomed-in scenes from the River Thames

 

Old Father Thames – with HMS Belfast – Tower Bridge & Canary Wharf in view – taken from the roof top of ‘The Garden at 120’

 

A close-up of Canary Wharf – my old workplace for the last 15 years of my career with Barclays

 

Me – caught taking the weight of me plates in the Sky Garden

 

A close-up of the old Tower of London – from the vantage point of the ‘Garden at 120’

 

Me – taking a breather up in the Sky Garden

 

“Fen Court” – Fenchurch Street – the location of the ‘Garden at 120’

 

120 Fenchurch Street – the location of the ‘Garden at 120’ – you can just about see the perimeters of the garden’s walls, at the very top of the roof.

 

At the entrance to the ‘Garden at 120’, there is web cam on the ceiling, showing the conditions up on the roof

 

Views from the ‘Garden at 120’

 

The ‘Sky Garden’ building – as seen from the roof of the ‘Garden at 120’

 

Views up in the ‘Garden at 120’

 

A bit of ‘hysteria in the wisteria’ at the ‘Garden at 120’ :-))

 

Whilst the metropolis grows and grows, with modern architecture everywhere – down amongst it all, there still stands history and beauty :-))

 

Views from the ‘Garden at 120’ – Fen Court – Fenchurch Street

 

Me – up on the roof of the ‘Garden way 120’ with the Sky Garden building sprouting out of me ‘filbert’

 

The Sky Garden building peering down on the ‘East India Arms’ pub – Fenchurch Street

 

The ‘East India Arms’ pub building was built way back in 1829 and was named so because’ it was next door to the HQ of the renowned ‘East India Company’ that dealt with the majority of Britain’s trade with the eastern world.

 

The pub has no formal connection with the East India Company, but it was no doubt frequented on a daily basis by the Company’s employees – and today a plaque is displayed on the its exterior walls, commemorating its close proximity to this famous Company.

 

A front view of the ‘East India Arms’ pub – Fenchurch Street

 

Me – neckin’ down my first ‘cheeky’ one in the cramped narrow bar of the ‘East India Arms’ pub

 

Me – with me trotters now weary – leaning on the bar of the ‘East India Arms’ pub – sinking down a second ‘cheeky’ one – before setting off back home, following a really enjoyable day ‘up on the roof’

 

 

Happy 40th Birthday – to London’s “Jubilee Tube Line”

Posted on by Posted in Transport - Rail .

Last week’s London Shoes blog was, (as they say on X-Factor, and other such tv progs) a “journey”.

This particular trek out also had me sort of paying homage to the topic in question, on a particular anniversary of its existence.

So – this week’s publication onto the London Shoes website-twitter feed & fb page – celebrates the 40th Birthday of what is London’s newest tube service – the “Jubilee Line”.

Forty years ago on the 1st May 1979, the “Jubilee Line” tube opened to the public for the very first time.

The Jubilee line is the Silver coloured one on the standard Tube Map, and today it comprises of 27 stations, running from ‘Stanmore’ in the north west of Greater London, and through to ‘Stratford’ in the east of London.

Although it is technically London’s newest underground line, it shares many of its stations and track with many of the much older and prominent stations of other tube lines such as the Bakerloo, District, Circle and certainly the Metropolitan tube lines – especially those situated in central London.

The ‘Jubilee’ is the deepest tube line in London, operating at 105ft below sea-level, at some locations.

It is estimated that around some 215 million+ passenger journey’s per year are undertaken on the Jubilee Line.

Now – something I wasn’t aware of until I started doing my little bit of research on this article, is that it didn’t start life as the Jubilee Line – it was designed and constructed as the “Fleet Line” in commemoration of one of London’s most famous ‘lost rivers’, the ‘River Fleet’, because its tracks that ran through central London, followed the path of the River Fleet on the north side of the Thames.

The original design was for this Fleet Line to branch out from Green Park tube station, and towards Charing Cross tube and National Rail stations – specifically to relieve the pressure and serious congestion being suffered on the Bakerloo tube line.

However, at the end of the day, it was decided that this new tube line would not spur directly into Charing Cross, but would head off to Stratford in the east of London.

In fact even today, within the unused areas of Charing Cross Station, there are still a collection of tube fixtures & fittings lying around in storage, with the “Fleet Line” wording on them.

The completion of this ‘new’ line project overran considerably (as they tend to do – just look at Crossrail today) to the extent that, as time moved on, the new proposed completion date, was getting close to Queen Elizabeth II’s ‘Silver Jubilee’ date in 1977 – and so it was discussed and agreed at very high level, that the name of the new line should be changed from the ‘Fleet Line’ to the ‘Jubilee Line’, in commemoration of the Queen’s ‘Silver Jubilee’.

London Transports dabbled with their standard ‘battleship grey’ colour paint – making it a bit lighter and more silvery in colour – and this was the colour used to represent the newly named ‘Jubilee Line’.

The ‘Jubilee Line’ was eventually officially opened by Prince Charles the Prince of Wales on 30th April 1979 – and then opened to the public the next day.

Further extension work was undertaken on the Jubilee lines route to Stratford in east London – creating stations such as North Greenwich, Canning Town and West Ham – areas that hadn’t previously been served to well by tube services in the past.

With the constant increases to London’s population since the line opened in 79, a decision was made in 2005 to increase all Jubilee Line tube trains from 6 carriages to 7, to relieve the ever increasing demand and congestion, particularly throughout central London. By lobbing on an extra carriage meant that the Jubilee Line tube trains could increase its usage by 6,000 per hour – which obviously helped solve the problem.
The Jubilee Line has its very own massive depot just outside Stratford station in east of London – and it also shares the large depot situated over in Neasden to the west of London, with some of the other tube lines.

So – whilst travelling from one end of the Jubilee Line to the other (eg Stanmore to Stratford) to celebrate its 40th Birthday, I ‘hopped off’ at a few of the line’s stations that have a little bit of an unusual story or history about them – and this is what I found:-

*Stanmore
Stanmore station is the Jubilee Line’s final stop to the far north west of London. It was originally opened back in 1932 when it was part of the old Metropolitan line.

*Dollis Hill
A station has been situated here since 1909, when it was part of the very early structure of the Metropolitan line.

On display in its subways are 4 large enameled panels that depict maps of Dollis Hill from the 16th to the 20th Century – a interesting piece of art that certainly brightens up what is basically a normal run-of-the-mill tube station.

*Kilburn
There has been a station in Kilburn since 1879, when it was part of the old Metropolitan Railway service.

The interesting landmark at this Jubilee Line station is the magnificent iron bridge that carries the rail track across Kilburn High Road. This old railway bridge dates back to 1914 – and has been restored to its original colours of light blue with red lettering – really brightens up the skyline.

*Swiss Cottage
This Jubilee Line station first opened in 1939, and still has many of its original ‘art-deco’ fixtures & fittings in situ, such as the old London Underground signage, and the fantastic lamps that illuminate the escalators.

The station is named after the 1804 pub that sits directly outside the stations main entrance.

 

The pub is built in the design of a typical Swiss chalet and was originally called the ‘Swiss Tavern’.

*St. John’s Wood
This Grade II listed Jubilee Line station was originally opened in 1939, and like its neighbouring station ‘Swiss Cottage’, it still retains a number of its 1930’s ‘art-deco’ features.

It is the nearest station to the famous Lords Cricket Ground, and the Abbey Road Recording Studios, made famous by the Beatles – cashing in on its Beatles popularity, which draws tourists there from all over the world – inside the station is the ‘Beatles Coffee Shop’ with its ‘Helter Skelter’ entrance.

Interestingly, the original plan was for the station to be named ‘Acacia’ not St. Johns Wood – as its main entrance leads out onto ‘Acacia Road’.

*Bond Street
The original station at Bond Street opened in 1900 when it was part of the Central Railway.

In 1920 Harry Selfridge – the owner of the globally famous ‘Selfridges’ department store – partitioned at high level for Bond Street station to be re-named ‘Selfridges’ and for a subway to lead from the station directly into his Selfridges store – this proposal very nearly happened.

*Westminster
There has been a rail station at Westminster since 1868 – but the Jubilee Line service only commenced there in 1999.

Westminster is where the Jubilee Line is at its deepest, operating with 3 other tube lines above it – and that’s why there are a total of 17 escalators and 5 lifts operating there.

When the Jubilee Line was being excavated at Westminster, all the disturbance underground, cause Big Ben to move 35mm – had there been any further movement then the tower would have been in serious danger of cracking and possibly collapsing.

One interesting thing I found out about at Westminster is that it has a little known ‘private’ subway exit that provides access into the ‘Parliamentary Estate’. This entrance is often guarded by security, and you can only access the entrance via a security pass – However, I managed to get right up close to it to take a photo of it.

*Waterloo
The 2nd busiest of London’s stations.

There has been a station at Waterloo since 1898 – and a Jubilee Line station since 1999.

In the Jubilee Line ticket office area, there stands a life sized model of an ‘Elephant’ – and it is said that the reason for its display is to commemorate the fact that Britain’s very first ringed-circus’ the ‘Astley Amphi Theatre’, that ran from 1768 to 1893, was situated just outside the station – and wild animals such as elephants were regular attractions there.

*Southwark
The Jubilee Line service at Southwark, was opened in 1999.

In its interconnecting subways there stands a unique and fascinating piece of art. The ‘Blue Wall’ (as its commonly known) is 52ft high and 130ft long, and consists of 660 pieces of glass, that give off an amazing reflection – a really tasteful bit of art in my opinion, and well worth stopping-off for a gander, if you’re ever passing through Southwark on the Jubilee.

 

*Canary Wharf
This particular station has a personal connection to me, as for around 15yrs it was the destination of my daily commute to work – when I was located at the Barclays Bank Head-Office situated at Canary Wharf.

This Jubilee Line station is the biggest and busiest ‘single-line’ station in Britain, with in excess of 40 million passenger journeys per year.

It has 3 main entrances and is unique in that no other tube line services share the tracks of its 2 platforms, 20 escalators & 3 lifts.

The entire design and layout of the Jubilee Line station at Canary Wharf, is scientifically designed to deal with its footfall, especially during rush-hour periods.

It has a massive layout operating under the ground, which you would have no idea of, at street level.

Its unique appearance was designed by Sir Norman Foster, who had a hand in designing the unique ‘Bilbao Metro’ rail network – again, a service that’s very close to my heart as I have visited Bilbao every year for the past 13 or so years, and have travelled the Bilbao Metro network many times.

A station worth visiting – for a day out, in my opinion – just to look at its architecture and features…..all things that us commuters take for granted and totally miss, when using it every day.

*Canning Town
The Canning Town area had its first station way back in 1873 (the Eastern Counties Line) – a Jubilee Line service has been running there since 1999.

What is fascinating about this station is that, tucked away in a little used stairway that leads from the bus station to the train station concourse – there is one of my favourite commemorative fixtures, that celebrates the historic and famous “Thames Iron Works” that operated in Canning Town, and was responsible for forming the history and character of the entire area.

At the top of this ‘hidden’ stairwell there is a huge chunk of iron taken from the ship HMS Warrior – and below this are loads of concrete panels that have been riveted to the stairway walls – these panels tell the story of the Thames Iron Works and its influence London’s maritime industry and also some of the River Thames iconic bridges.

And of course – for those that are not aware – the ‘Thames Iron Works’ football team became my beloved ‘West Ham United’ – hence our battle cry……”Come On You Irons”!!!

*Stratford
Is the final station at the eastern end of the Jubilee Line – and it is now the busiest of London’s stations, and the 6th busiest station in Britain.
There has been a rail service at Stratford since 1839, when the old Great Eastern Railway Company operated from there.

The Jubilee Line at Stratford opened in 1999 – and today the Central – Jubilee –DLR – Tfl – National Rail and the Channel Tunnel connection lines – all have platforms at Stratford station – and it will be one of the main inter5 connecting stations when the Crossrail lines are formally opened.

It’s a station that I have used regularly through my life, and will continue to use, as it is my nearest mail-line connecting station, just 18mins from my home.

So – having spent the day ‘riding’ the Jubilee in celebration of its 40th Birthday – and ending up in Stratford station, as I had – I was in desperate need of a ‘cheeky’ beer or two – and so I wandered through the station subway that leads directly into the massive ‘Westfield Shopping Complex’ (more commonly known as ‘Stratford City’) that has been in situ at Stratford since 2011 – and headed towards The Cow pub (or gastro bar as they like their Billy’s to describe it).

 

‘The Cow’, although pleasant in décor and ambience – is a typical modern shopping center drinking hole – certainly not sleazy enough for me – and at £6.50 a pint, it’s certainly not the sort of place you could afford to go to regularly. However, with its close proximity to West Ham United’s London Stadium, and also the Olympic Park – it is extremely popular and busy, especially on match-days.

Still – their beer is ‘clean’ and the service is friendly – perfect for couple of ‘cheeky’ ones.

So – hope you enjoyed this ‘journey’ celebrating the Jubilee Lines ‘40th’ – and all that’s left to say is “Mind the Gap”.

See more photos below – of my Jubilee Line ‘journey’

Stanmore station is the Jubilee Line’s final stop to the far north west of London. It was originally opened back in 1932 when it was part of the old Metropolitan line.

 

A station has been situated here at Dollis Hill since 1909, when it was part of the very early structure of the Metropolitan line

 

On display in its subways are 4 large enameled panels that depict maps of Dollis Hill from the 16th to the 20th Century – a interesting piece of art that certainly brightens up what is basically a normal run-of-the-mill tube station.

 

The murals on display at Dollis Hill Jubilee Line station

 

The murals on display in the subways of Dollis Hill Jubilee Line station

 

There has been a station in Kilburn’s Jubilee Line station since 1879, when it was part of the old Metropolitan service.

 

An interesting landmark at Kilburn Jubilee Line station is the magnificent iron bridge that carries the rail track across Kilburn High Road. This old railway bridge dates back to 1914 – and has been restored to its original colours of light blue with red lettering – really brightens up the local skyline.

 

Street view of the magnificent railway bridge at Kilburn Jubilee Line station

 

Swiss Cottage – Jubilee Line station

 

Down on the platforms of the jubilee’s Swiss Cottage station

 

Swiss Cottage station first opened in 1939, and still has many of its original ‘art-deco’ fixtures & fittings in situ, such as the old London Underground signage, and the fantastic lamps that illuminate the escalators

 

Me – and the 1930’s art deco lamps on the escalators at Swiss Cottage station

 

Swiss Cottage station is named after the 1804 pub that sits directly outside the stations main entrance.

 

The pub that Swiss Cottage is named after, is built in the design of a typical Swiss chalet and was originally called the ‘Swiss Tavern’

 

This Grade II listed St. Johns Wood Jubilee Line station was originally opened in 1939, and like its neighbouring station ‘Swiss Cottage’, it still retains a number of its 1930’s ‘art-deco’ features.

 

The old art-deco lamp fittings at St. Johns Wood station

 

St. John’s Wood Jubilee station is the nearest station to the famous Abbey Road Recording Studios, made famous by the Beatles – and cashing in on its Beatles popularity, which draws tourists there from all over the world – inside the station is the ‘Beatles Coffee Shop’ with its ‘Helter Skelter’ entrance.

 

The ‘Beatles Coffee Shop’ inside St. Johns Wood station – with its ‘Helter Skelter’ entrance.

 

Interestingly, the original plan was for St.Johns Wood station to be named ‘Acacia’ not St. Johns Wood – as its main entrance leads out onto ‘Acacia Road’.

 

The Jubilee’s Bond Street station – In 1920 Harry Selfridge – the owner of the globally famous ‘Selfridges’ store – partitioned at high level for Bond Street station to be re-named ‘Selfridges’ and for a subway to lead from the station directly into his Selfridges store

 

One interesting thing I found out about at Westminster station, is that it has a little known ‘private’ subway exit that provides access into the ‘Parliamentary Estate’. This entrance is often guarded by security, and you can only access the entrance via a security pass – However, I managed to get right up close to it to take this photo of it

 

In the Jubilee Line ticket office area of Waterloo station – there stands a life sized model of an ‘Elephant’ – which is said to commemorate the fact that Britain’s very first ringed-circus’ the ‘Astley Amphi Theatre’, that ran from 1768 to 1893, and was situated just outside the station – and wild animals such as elephants were regular attractions there

 

The Jubilee Line service at Southwark, was opened in 1999.

 

In the interconnecting subways of the Jubilee’s ‘Southwark’ station – there stands a fascinating piece of art. The ‘Blue Wall’ (as its commonly known) is 52ft high and 130ft long, and consists of 660 pieces of glass, that give off an amazing reflection

 

The Jubilee Lines ‘Canary Wharf’ station – displays the largest ‘Roundels’ of the entire tube network

 

The Jubilee Lines ‘Canary Wharf’ station has a personal connection for me, as for 15yrs it was the destination of my daily commute to work – when I was located at the Barclays Bank Head-Office situated at Canary Wharf

 

Me – on one of Canary Wharf stations ’20’ escalators

 

The Jubilee Line’s Canary Wharf station is the biggest and busiest ‘single-line’ station in Britain, with in excess of 40 million passenger journeys per year. The entire design and layout of the Jubilee Line station at Canary Wharf, is scientifically designed to deal with its footfall, especially during rush-hour periods

 

The main entrance to the Jubilee Line’s ‘Canary Wharf’ station

 

Not everyone is aware that the Jubilee Lines’ Canary Wharf station, actually has 3 entrances – this is one of them

 

And this is another of them

 

This photo show the 2 lesser known entrances to Canary Wharf station on the Jubilee Line

 

The Canning Town area had its first station way back in 1873 (the Eastern Counties Line) – a Jubilee Line service has been running there since 1999

 

What I find fascinating about ‘Canning Town’ station is that, tucked away in a little used stairway that leads from the bus station to the train station concourse – there is one of my favourite commemorative fixtures, that celebrates the historic and famous “Thames Iron Works” that operated in Canning Town, and was responsible for forming the history and character of the entire area

 

On a little used stairwell at the Jubilee Lines ‘Canning Town’ station are loads of concrete panels that have been riveted to the stairway walls – these panels tell the story of the ‘Thames Iron Works’ and its influence London’s maritime industry and also some of the River Thames iconic bridges.

 

A close up of a commemorative panel – at the Jubilee’s ‘Canning Town’ station

 

A close up of another of the commemorative panels – at the Jubilee’s ‘Canning Town’ station

 

Another close up of a commemorative panel on display in a little known stairway at the Jubilee’s ‘Canning Town’ station – referencing it’s origins as West Ham Utd FC

 

And of course – for those that are not aware – the ‘Thames Iron Works’ football team became my beloved ‘West Ham United’ – hence our battle cry……”Come On You Irons”!!!

 

Stratford – is the final station at the eastern end of the Jubilee Line – and it is now the busiest of London’s stations, and the 6th busiest station in Britain. There has been a rail service at Stratford since 1839, when the old Great Eastern Railway Company operated from there.

 

The main entrance to Stratford Station – the end of the Jubilee Line – and the Central–DLR-TfL–National Rail and the Channel Tunnel connection lines all operate from

 

Having spent the day ‘riding’ the Jubilee in celebration of its 40th Birthday – ending up at Stratford station – I wandered through the station subway that leads directly into the massive ‘Westfield Shopping Complex’ (more commonly known as ‘Stratford City’) that has been in situ at Stratford since 2011 – and headed towards The Cow pub for a well deserved ‘cheeky’ one

 

Me – neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one in The Cow – Westfield Shopping Complex – Stratford

“Legal London” – & the splendours of “Lincoln’s Inn”-“Middle Temple” & “Inner Temple”

Posted on by Posted in Historic Buildings, Parks & Public Squares, Streets .

This week, me old ‘London Shoes’ sort of felt like they were being called ‘up before the beak’ and having their ‘collar felt’.

The London Shoes blog published this week, goes under the title of “Legal London” – and focusses on 3 specific locations and the stacks of history behind them, and what these locations represent today.

The 3 historic sites in question are:-
* “Lincoln’s Inn” (& its nearby “Lincoln’s Inn Fields”)
* “Middle Temple”
* “Inner Temple”

Lincoln’s Inn:-

Lincoln’s Inn is one of London’s prestigious and world renowned legal ‘Inns of Court’.

Don’t be misled by the term “Inn” as it has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with a ‘boozer’.

London’s ‘Inns of Court’ are sites of historic educational centers and professional associations that qualified and practicing barristers of England & Wales must be members of, to be able to be called to ‘The Bar’ (and again, it’s got nothing to do with the pub).

There are 4 ‘Inns of Court’ in London and they are ‘Lincolns Inn’ – ‘Inner Temple’ – ‘Middle Temple’ & ‘Greys Inn’ – and some of the world’s most prominent judges & barristers work from these locations.

Lincoln’s Inn itself is located literally a minutes walk from Holborn tube station – and in the hustle & bustle and noise of the metropolis surrounding it, it’s surprisingly a place of peace & tranquility.

Set in an area of 11 acres, Lincoln’s Inn is by far the largest of London’s Inns of Court.

Before the 1400’s the subject of “law” could only be taught by the ‘Church’, but after that period the topic was allowed to be taught and practiced in the City of London by independent qualified lawyers.

However, when Henry VIII was on the throne, he didn’t like the idea of these practitioners having a greater power to stand in judgement on legal matters, than he did, and so he banned all lawyers from practicing within the then boundary walls of the ‘City of London’, so all the banned lawyers decided to leg it over to Holborn and set up their practices in that area, as at that time the Holborn district sat just outside the city walls.

Around that time the Earl of Lincoln owned a lot of land in what eventually became the Holborn district – and on that land he had a massive Tudor mansion.

Having a bit of sympathy for the banned lawyers, the Earl of Lincoln bequeathed his mansion and all its adjoining land, to these lawyers, with a proviso that they set-up a college for them to study, qualify and practice English Law –and that is how Lincoln’s Inn became an ‘Inn of Court’.

Some of the barrister’s chambers and other legal buildings situated within the secluded Lincoln’s Inn area, date way back to the 16th, 17th & 18th Centuries – however, the majority of the original buildings there were redeveloped during the Victorian period, but with a strict proviso that their design did not deviate from the original architectural designs and structures.

The “Chapel” within Lincoln’s Inn dates back to around the early 1600’s, although records indicate that there had been a place of worship sited there since before the 1400’s.

An interesting historical aspect of the Chapel is that its bell is believed to date right back to 1596.

Another interesting and visual aspect of the Chapel, are the many ‘holes’ that are smothered across its exterior walls and interior passageways. These holes were caused by shrapnel from bombs dropped by German Zeppelins during WW1, the very first time that England had ever been invaded from the skies.

Other notable historic buildings within Lincoln’s Inn itself include the very picturesque ‘Kitchen Garden’ – the ‘Old Hall’, which originally dates back to 1489 – the ‘Gatehouse’, which was built in 1521, and whose oak gates date back to 1564 – the ‘Library’ which was built in 1471, and redeveloped in 1845, and the actual ‘Inn’ that stands today originates from 1609.

The ‘Jubilee Fountain’ that sits in the middle of the Inn’s square lawn, is a new edition, designed and instaled in 2003.

The entire area of Lincoln’s Inn, with its ‘vibe’, peace and tranquility, its magnificent historical buildings,  ornate stained glass windows, and commemorative flagstones – very much gives off a feeling and ambience of the Oxford & Cambridge University sites.

The “Lincoln’s Inn” site itself may not be top of everyone’s ‘must see’ list – but believe me, it is well worth a visit.

“Lincoln’s Inn Field’s”:-

Literally just alongside the Lincoln’s Inns majestic entrance gate is the historical landmark of “Lincoln’s Inn Field’s”.

Lincoln’s Inn Fields is the largest public square in London.

It was originally ‘laid-out’ in 1630 as a private garden – and as time went on the land acquired ‘grazing rights’. Throughout the 17th & 18th centuries, it was certainly one of the top ‘go-to’ places for cattle in transit, to have their lunch!!.

This ‘grazing’ field started to attract a lot of activity, and as a result residential houses started to spring-up around the ‘Field’, and because there was housing, then retail ‘shops’ also started to appear – these shops led from the ‘Field’ to the nearest main street routes in and out of London at that time, which are today known as ‘High Holborn’ to the north & the ‘Strand’ to the south.

The residents of the houses surrounding Lincolns Inn Field, were mainly wealthy lawyers and judges – and, quite understandably, they didn’t take too kindly to the constant noise and muck created by the grazing cattle, as the animals would often ‘escape’ from the Field and wander around all the nearby streets and houses, leaving their mess behind them.

To solve this problem, the authorities decided to construct a strong fence around the ‘Field’ to stop the animals getting out – and to have 2 ‘turnstiles’ put in, to enable people to enter & exit the Field , without the cattle escaping.

The existence of these 2 turnstiles is still evident today, by way of the ‘Great Turnstile’ and ‘Little Turnstile’ alleys that lead towards Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

In the 1600’s ‘Lincoln’s Inn Fields’ was one of London’s notorious public execution sites, where many notable people lost their ‘heads’.

During this period a man known as London’s most useless executioner ‘Jack Ketch’, performed his work there. It has been reported that he was so bad at swinging the old axe, that it very often took him up to 6 attempts to chop his poor victim’s heads off. (Perhaps he should have gone to SpecSavers.)

The houses that surround the perimeter of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, are some of the most magnificent historical residences in London, that have been the homes of many famous people and organisations throughout the centuries.

The legendary architect and designer Sir John Soanes bought no.12 Lincolns Inn Fields in 1792, and then later also purchased no’s 13 & 14.

By 1824, he had had them all rebuilt by the architect who designed The Bank of England.

Within these particular houses Sir John Soanes created an ‘Academy of Architecture’, which he eventually ‘left to the nation’ as a museum when he died.

This museum was made up of Sir John Soanes 3 interconnected houses, and now displays numerous historic and interesting arts and artefacts, all preserved and on display in a domestic context.

The oldest building in the streets surrounding Lincoln’s Inn Fields, is believed to be ‘Lindsey House’ at no’s 59–60 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, – purporting to date back to 1640. Today, Lindsey House are the chambers of the leading civil liberties barristers.

Another 17th century building survivor is no.66 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, which was built for Lord Powis and known as ‘Powis House’.

No. 35-43 Lincoln’s Inn Field is the headquarters to ‘The Royal College of Surgeons’. A collection of artefacts and anatomies that were collected by John Hunter (1728-1793) regarded to be the father of surgery – are on display in the ‘Hunterian Museum’ at the Royal College of Surgeons building.

Garden Court Chambers at no.57-58 Lincoln’s Inn Fields has an interior geometric staircase designed by Sir John Soane.

References to Lincoln’s Inn Fields also appear regularly throughout the Charles Dicken’s novel ‘Bleak House’.

In 2003 the ‘London School of Economics and Political Science’ moved into no.50 Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

At no. 32 Lincoln’s Inn Fields stands the architecturally magnificent building that was once the offices of Britain’s ‘Land Registry’.

Displayed on the exterior walls of no.65 is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that once the home of the famous surgeon William Marsden (1796-1867), who founded the Royal Free and the Royal Marsden Hospitals.

So that’s Lincoln’s Inn & Lincoln’s Inn Fields – steeped in history and well worth a visit.

“Inner Temple & Middle Temple”:-

The area known as Middle Temple & Inner Temple, is located just 3mins north of Temple tube station on the Embankment (one of my favourite tube stations).

Middle Temple & Inner Temple are 2 of London’s 4 ‘Inns of Court’.

The earliest recorded reference to this specific location dates back to before the 12th century, when a church belonging to the ‘Knights Templar’ stood there.

The Knights Templar’s were a sort of military order, but very much connected to religion – and their existence dates back to 1119 when the Knights Templar-‘Order’ was founded.

The Knights Templar’s were a formidable fighting force, whose members were easily recognised by the red-cross displayed on the front of their white tunics.

They were heavily linked to the Crusades and quickly built up connections and cells throughout Europe and especially the ‘Holy Land’. They were an extremely powerful ‘army’, but often had a bad reputation as being ruthless, blood thirsty marauders, particularly throughout the Holy Lands.

By the beginning of the 12th century, the Knights Templar‘s ‘Order’ had become less formidable as other religions became more prominent – and as a result, the Order just fell away.

The Knights Templar’s used to worship, and carry out all their controversial initiation ceremonies at the ‘Temple Church’ situated in the area now known as ‘Temple’ – and that is exactly how the area got its name!!

Both Inner & Middle Temple have been the location for lawyers and barristers since the late 1300’s – very much as it still is today.

The whole area is like a little world within a world, as it has the unique distinction of having special ‘rights’ that are known as ‘Liberties’ – which means that the area is completely outside of the jurisdiction of the City of London, and the religious jurisdictions of the Bishop of London.

‘Temple Church’ itself, which was originally built and consecrated by the Knights Templar’s in 1185, also has its own unique status in that it has the distinction of being a ‘Royal Peculiar’, which means that the church belongs directly to the Monarch, rather than belonging to a diocese as with a parish church.

Just like Lincoln’s Inn, Middle & Inner Temple consists of many historic buildings (approx 45 of them) that operate as barrister’s chambers.

Many of the Temple’s buildings originate from the 15th/16th/17th centuries – and although they have been subjected to considerable damage from events such as the Great Fire of London and the WW2 Blitz – any rebuilding and redevelopments have been strictly reproduced to emulate a buildings original design and structure.

There are some beautifully designed ‘courts’ & ‘squares’ situated within ‘Inner’ & ‘Middle’ Temple such as: – Devereux Court – Brick Court – Essex Court – Fountain Court.

At no.17 Gough Square, there stands the former home of ‘Dr. Samuel Johnson’ (1709-1784) – the famous author, writer and composer of the very first published version of the English Dictionary .

17 Gough Square is the only remaining one of the 18 houses that Dr Johnson once had scattered across London, and with its 4 window bays wide and being 5 storeys  high, it displays the typical architectural features of city dwelling residential houses that were owned by the wealthy during that period in time.

At the other end of Gough Square, directly facing Dr. Johnson house, is a statue of ‘Hodge’ – Johnson’s much loved cat !!!

For this trek out I was once again very privileged to be accompanied by my former Barclays Bank partner-in-crime during the last 10 years of my career – me old Canary Wharf compatriot ‘Jackie’ – who I have to say, a took some mean photos for me – however, adopting her usual ‘no publicity’ stance, she was very insistent that she should not appear in any of them, but she bought me a cheeky beer, later in the pub, so I cut her a bit-of-slack!!

So – after spending a day exploring and enjoying the calm and serenity of Lincoln’s Inn – Lincoln’s Inn Fields – Middle Temple & Inner Temple, clocking up over 14,500 steps (so my accomplice Jackie reliably informed me) – it was time for a well-earned ‘cheeky’ one and some nibbles – and what better place to park one’s bum than the amazing “The Edgar Wallace” pub in Essex Street, Temple.

The pub building was constructed in 1777, and was originally called ‘The Essex Head’. It was once the regular drinking hole of Dr. Samuel Johnson, who used to hold his ‘Essex Head Club’ meetings in there with all his mates from the literary world.

Today, this one-roomed pub with an upstairs, attracts its “Billy Bunters” from mainly the nearby legal world of Temple and the Royal Courts of Justice.

To ensure that its clientele enjoy undisturbed conversation, there are no fruit machines; no music, no tv in the pub, and lap-tops are strictly barred.

In 1975 the pub was renamed ‘The Edgar Wallace’ to commemorate the prolific crime writer and novelist.

Today, every possible conceivable space on the pub’s ceiling is covered in beer mats, as is the bar area – and the interior walls of the pub are a smothered with old advertising signs for beers, spirits, cigarettes and cigars of the past.

The Edgar Wallace is a really unique pub, and definitely well worth a visit if you are ever in the ‘Temple’ area.

Apologies for the length of this article, but there was a lot of interesting stuff I wanted to cover-off.

If you are in London and are desperately looking for a bit of peace & quiet, and an escape from all the stress and turmoil of the big bad ‘Smoke’ – then you really can’t go wrong visiting ‘Lincoln’s Inn’ & ‘Temple’ – as they truly are an ‘oasis of tranquillity in a desert storm’


Hope you enjoy the photos.

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More photos of Lincoln’s Inn – ‘Lincoln’s Inn Fields – Middle Temple & Inner Temple

Me – ambling around the streets just outside the main gates into Lincoln’s Inn

 

The main entrance to Lincoln’s Inn – this gateway dates back to the 1500’s, but has obviously had o be renovated over the centuries due to wear & tear, the Great Fire of London and the WW1 & WW2 bombings

 

Me – inside the inner areas of Lincoln’s Inn.d

 

 

 

Scenes from the Kitchen Gardens inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

More scenes from the Kitchen Gardens inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

The Kitchen Gardens inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

Outside the Kitchen Garden’s inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

Views of buildings within the streets of Lincoln’s Inn

 

Buildings within the streets inside Lincoln’s Inn Lincoln’s Inn

 

 

 

Me – (doing a ‘George Formby) wandering about the buildings and streets within Lincoln’s Inn

 

The ‘Jubilee Fountain’ inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

More views of buildings in the streets within Lincoln’s Inn

 

A rather strange public notice – on display inside Lincoln’s Inn

 

The “Chapel” within Lincoln’s Inn dates back to around the early 1600’s,

 

Another interesting and visual aspect of the Chapel, are the many ‘holes’ that are smothered across its exterior walls and interior passageways. These holes were caused by shrapnel from bombs dropped by German Zeppelins during WW1, the very first time that England had ever been invaded from the skies

 

Another of the entrances into Lincoln’s Inn – this one dates back to the 1600’s

 

The existence of the 2 turnstiles that were built into “Lincoln’s Inn Fields” to keep the grazing cattle in, whilst allowing people access, are still evident today, by way of the ‘Great Turnstile’ and ‘Little Turnstile’ alleys that lead towards Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

 

A close-up of the Jubilee Fountain within the inner square of Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

Literally just alongside the Lincoln’s Inns majestic entrance gate is the historically famous “Lincoln’s Inn Field’s”. Lincoln’s Inn Fields is the largest public square in London.

 

Me – on the mean streets of Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

Scenes from inside Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

More scenes from inside Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

Another scene from inside Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

Inside Lincoln’s Inn Fields

 

The legendary architect and designer Sir John Soanes bought no.12 Lincolns Inn Fields in 1792, and then later also purchased No’s 13 & 14. By 1824, he had them all rebuilt The buildings made up of Sir John Soanes 3 interconnected houses, is now the Soanes Museum displaying numerous historic and interesting arts and artefacts, all preserved and on display in a domestic context.

 

Displayed on the exterior walls of no.65 is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that the famous surgeon William Marsden (1796-1867), who founded the Royal Free and the Royal Marsden Hospitals – once lived there.

 

On the exterior wall of no.65 Lincoln’s Inn Fields is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that the famous surgeon William Marsden (1796-1867), who founded the Royal Free and the Royal Marsden Hospitals, once lived there.

 

No. 35-43 Lincoln’s Inn Field is the headquarters to ‘The Royal College of Surgeons’. A collection of artefacts and anatomy that were collected by John Hunter (1728-1793) regarded to be the father of surgery – are on display in the ‘Hunterian Museum’ at the Royal College of Surgeons building.

 

. Lindsey House at no’s 59–60 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, is said to be the oldest building in the streets surrounding the ‘Lincoln’s Inn Fields’ – purporting to date back to 1640. Lindsey House is today the chambers of the leading civil liberties barristers.

 

At no. 32 Lincoln’s Inn Fields stands the architecturally magnificent building that was once the offices of Britain’s ‘Land Registry’.

The area known as Middle Temple & Inner Temple, is located just 3mins north of Temple tube station on the Embankment (one of my favourite tube stations)

 

One of the main entrance to the historic  area known as Middle Temple & Inner Temple

 

The gardens an barrister chambers of Middle Temple

 

Another view of the gardens of Middle Temple

 

An old water pump inside ‘Inner Temple’

 

Inner Temple’s ‘Fountain Court’ building.

 

The fountain of Fountain Court – Inner Temple

 

The ‘mean streets’ of Temple

 

‘Temple Church’ itself, which was originally built and consecrated by the Knights Templar’s in 1185, also has its own unique status in that it has the distinction of being what’s known as a ‘Royal Peculiar’, which means that the church belongs directly to the Monarch, rather than belonging to a diocese as with a parish church.

 

Street scenes from inside Inner Temple

 

Devereux Court inside Middle & Inner Temple

 

 

Street scenes from inside Middle and Inner Temple

At no.17 Gough Square, (displaying a commemorative plaque) there stands the former home of the famous author, writer and composer of the very first published version of the English Dictionary ‘Dr. Samuel Johnson’s (1709-1784). At the other end of Gough Square, directly facing Dr. Johnson house, is a statue of his beloved pussy cat ‘Hodge’ !!

 

The commemorative plaque displayed on the exterior wall of At no.17 Gough Square – the former home of the famous author, writer and composer of the very first published version of the English Dictionary ‘Dr. Samuel Johnson’s (1709-1784).

 

Me & Johnson’s cat ‘Hodge’ – in Gough Square.

 

 

“The Edgar Wallace” pub in Essex Street, Temple. The pub building was constructed in 1777, and was originally called ‘The Essex Head’. It was once the regular drinking hole of Dr. Samuel Johnson, who used to hold his ‘Essex Head Club’ meetings in there with all his mates from the literary world.

 

Me – outside the ‘Edgar Wallace’ pub – Essex Street-Temple

 

My ‘Edgar Wallace’ cheeky beer

 

Today, every possible conceivable space on the ceiling of ‘The Edgar Wallace’ pub is covered in beer mats, as is the bar area – and the interior walls of the pub are a smothered with old advertising signs for beers, spirits, cigarettes and cigars of the past.

 

Just some of the old advertising signs for beers, spirits, cigarettes and cigars of the past – displayed on the interior walls of the ‘Edgar Wallace’ pub – Temple

 

Me – neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one in The Edgar Wallace pub – Temple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dagenham’s “Dudley Moore” – his early life & all his “Jazz”

Posted on by Posted in Music, People .

This week’s ‘London Shoes’ publication comes in 2 parts.

The first part begins on the ‘Becontree Estate’ in Dagenham, and the second part ends in an old converted granary barn in the rural wilds of Cambridgeshire.

The theme of this blog focusses on a specific aspect of the subject matters life – and this person was a sort of ‘local hero/celeb’ when I was growing-up in Ilford, as he grew up in Dagenham, just a few minutes down the road from where I lived & where I went to school.

This man’s amazing and often sad ‘early life’ journey, would eventually see him end up in Hollywood.

The second part of this blog is totally dedicated to this persons ‘art’ and the amazing, yet little publicised legacy, that he left us with.

So – the topic of this week’s publication is all about Dagenham’s very own “Dudley Moore” and his contribution and influence to “Jazz” music.

Dudley Moore was born on 19th April 1935 at Charing Cross Hospital-London. His parents were John Moore a Scottish railway electrician, and his mum Ada was a secretary. Dudley had an older sister named Barbara.

The family had originally lived in council house in Monmouth Road-Dagenham, but when the house suffered bomb damage in 1940, they moved to another council property at 146 Baron Road-Dagenham.

Baron Road was (and still is) part of the historic ‘Becontree Estate’, which-when it was built between the years 1921 to 1935 – was the largest council estate in the entire world, and very much a working class estate.

Unfortunately Dudley was born with the physical deformity commonly known as ‘club foot’ – but for Dudley Moore the condition was worse, as he had the deformity in both of his feet.

Following periods of extensive hospitalisation and surgery during his very early years, his right leg/foot responded well to the treatment it received, and it managed to get straightened by the time he was 6 years old – however, nothing could be done for his left foot or leg, which sadly remained permanently deformed, which meant that he walk with a noticeably bad limp.

This disability and the fact that he was very small in size (he only reached 5’2” as an adult), meant that from an very early age he was subjected to bullying and ridicule from all the other kids throughout his formative – which had the life-long effect of making him extremely self-conscious, a behavior that led him to develop an inferiority complex, which he learnt to cover-up with humour.

He attended ‘Fanshaw Infants School’ in Dagenham, where it was noted that he showed a great interest and understanding of music.
By the age of 6 Dudley Moore had become a choirboy at his local St. Thomas Church.

He then moved on to Dagenham’s ‘Green Lane Junior School’ – where again, his ability to understand music led his teachers to believe that they may have some sort of child prodigy on their hands.

By the age of 11 Dudley was playing the church pipe-organ at St. Thomas’s Church.

Whilst all the other kids around Dagenham were out playing football and other sporting activities or out dancing and stuff like that, because of his deformity, poor old Dudley was unable to join in and be a part of that scene.

However – to compensate for that he developed a passion for music, particularly classical and choral music – and at that time he also developed a keen interest in the piano.

As a young lad Dudley Moore attended the ‘Kingsley Hall Youth Club’ in Dagenham, where the warden who ran the club at that time – a Mr. Sydney Russell – saw that Dudley Moore had a unique and exceptional talent as a pianist, especially for someone his age – and to encourage him further Mr. Russell used to allow Dudley to practice on the Youth Club piano any time that he wanted to. Sydney Russell also helped pay for private piano tuition for him – and not only that, Mr. Russell paid for someone to make a special ‘boot’ for his ‘club foot’ so that Dudley could play the piano more comfortably.

Dudley Moore passed his 11 Plus Exam with flying colours, gaining him a place at the then very reputable ‘Dagenham County High’ Grammar School in Parsloes Avenue-Dagenham.

At the age of 11 whilst attending Dagenham County High, because of his noticeable musical talents, Dudley Moore earned a scholarship to the prestigious ‘Guildhall School of Music’ in central London – where he took up harpsicord, violin, music theory & composition, organ and piano.

His exceptional musical talent won him a scholarship to the historically famous and prestigious Magdalen College-Oxford, where he specifically studied facets of the organ at an extremely high level.

Apparently Dudley Moore hated his time at Oxford, as he felt inferior to everyone else there and had nothing in common with all the other academics studying there – and so he immersed himself in his music, often being called upon to compose and perform musical scores for various student reviews, productions and other University activities.

Another thing that happened to young Dud whilst studying at Oxford is that he developed a deep passion for ‘jazz’ music – becoming heavily influenced by the likes of top artists of the day such as the famous Oscar Peterson, and as a result Dudley Moore immersed himself completely into becoming a competent jazz pianist.

Word soon got round in jazz circles about Dudley’s reputation as an up and coming jazz pianist, to the extent that he was taken on by the then leading jazz artists Johnny Dankworth & his wife, the singer Cleo Lane and he played a number of gigs for them.

Aside from his love of jazz music, whilst Moore was at Oxford, he developed a friendship with the now famous writer Alan Bennett, and along with Bennett’s mates Jonathan Miller and Peter Cook, they put together and performed a satirical comedy review which they called “Beyond the Fringe”.

Their “Beyond The Fringe” satirical act very soon became big news, gaining great acclaim in showbiz circles – so much so that by 1960 the offer was made to move their ‘show’ from the ‘burbs’ and onto a London west-end stage.

“Beyond the Fringe” opened at London’s Fortune Theatre, and immediately became a box-office sensation, and the show included numerous musical sketches and interludes that were written and performed by Dudley.

The show was so popular and in demand, that by 1962 it was transferred to New York, where it went down a storm, and continued to do so right through until it finished its run there in 1964.

It has often been said that had it not been for the satirical ‘Beyond the Fringe’, then there would be no TV shows like ‘Have I got News for You’ today.

Upon Bennett, Cook, Moore & Millar’s return to the UK in 64, the BBC offered Dudley Moore his own TV series, which he took up, and invited his mate Peter Cook to be a part of it with him.

Their TV series was entitled “Not Only, But Also”, which once again, became a roaring success.

Some of its most popular sketches were those where Peter Cook & Dudley Moore were sat in a pub, all dressed up in their working class attire of ‘pack-a-macs’ and flat caps, whilst discussing some obscure surreal aspect of life – with Dudley Moore often struggling to suppress his laughter, whilst delivering his lines in his best Dagenham accent.

Despite all this stage success, jazz was always Dudley Moore’s first love.

In 1961 his stage partner Peter Cook purchased an old run-down London strip club in Greek Street-Soho, and reopened it as the “Establishment” club – where up and coming satirists and ‘alternative’ comedians and performers such as Lenny Bruce would perform their acts. The ‘Establishment’ club was the ‘go to’ place for these sort of artists, as other places wouldn’t book them because their material was deemed to be too obscene.

It is in the basement of the ‘Establishment’ club that the “Dudley Moore Trio” was formed.

The ‘Trio’ consisted of Moore on piano, and the now legendary Chris Karan on drums and Pete McGurk on double bass.

The ‘Dudley Moore Trio’ would perform their form of jazz most nights at the ‘Establishment’ and very soon they became a big draw for the club, and were in demand at all the reputable jazz clubs in London and beyond.

The Dudley Moore Trio were extremely popular throughout the 60’s, releasing a total of 8 albums and 12 singles/EP’s on the Decca label.

They also appeared regularly as the musical interlude on prime-time family entertainment TV shows, and their popularity wasn’t just confined to the UK – they were also massive ‘down-under’ in Australia.

During these times Dudley also appeared in a few UK produced comedy films, the most notable probably being ‘The Wrong Box’ (1966) – ‘Bedazzled’(1967) – ‘Monte Carlo or Bust’(1968) – Dudley Moore also wrote the music scores for all these films.

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So – for the second part of this particular blog, my ‘London Shoes’ actually found themselves leaving the ‘smoke’ for the very first time and they ended up in a converted barn somewhere in the wilds of rural Cambridgeshire.

The reason for being there was for the purpose of once again catching-up with my drum tutor ‘Gentleman’ George Double, from way back in the day when I was the Manager of Barclays Bank-Mare Street Hackney E8, and George was a customer.

George thumps tubs (eg plays drums) for the excellent “Chris Ingham Quartet” – and they were performing their brilliant set “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” at the Stapleford Granary near Great Shelford in Cambridgeshire.

The content of the band’s “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set comprises of some of the most popular numbers recorded by ‘Dudley Moore Trio‘, plus a few of his film scores and also some covers of other artists songs that the ‘Trio’ would regularly bang-out in their performances.

The ‘Chris Ingham Quartet’ have performed their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set all over the country to great acclaim, not just from punters who have been lucky enough to get tickets for their shows, but also from the media and notable music magazines.

For those that are into jazz, and those that may have a soft spot for ‘Cuddly Dudley’ and his music, then this really is an excellent showcase of his best works – which is enhanced by pianist Chris Ingham’s commentary throughout, that provides the audience with a background to Dudley’s life and the stories that lie behind the numbers being played.

The audience at the Stapleford Granary totally lapped up the bands performance, and demanded an encore.

For me – it was yet another enjoyable experience of being ‘with the band’ and viewing the evening’s entertainment from the performer’s perspective – of which I’m very grateful to the Chris Ingham Quartet.

As for Dudley Moore – well, in 1975 he went off to California and became a global film star (and surprisingly, a sex symbol) appearing as the lead character in films such as “10” & “Arthur” & “Six Weeks”.

No matter how big a star he was, Dudley Moore never forgot his roots, and every year he would pencil out the month of August from his busy schedule – to return back home (totally unannounced) to Dagenham, where he would always drop in to the ‘Kingsley Hall’ where he used to attend youth club – and have a cuppa with all the locals, and tinkle the ivories and have a good old fashioned sing-song with them.

Sadly the film work started to dry up, when his behavior led the film industry to believe that he was permanently ‘off his head’ on drink & drugs, but the stark reality was that he had developed an incurable degenerative brain disease, which saw him gradually lose the use of movement, speech and thought processes.

Dudley Moore could cope with being terminally ill, but the thing he couldn’t cope with was not being able to play his piano – that broke his heart and his will.

On the 27th of March 2002, Dudley Moore died in Plainfield, New Jersey aged 66, and was buried there at the Hillside Cemetery in Scotch Plains.

His good friend and his carer for his final few years was ‘Rena Fruchter’.
Rena was holding his hand when he died; and she says that his final words were “I can hear the music all around me”

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Dagenham Heathway tube station, on the District Line – the nearest station to all the local landmarks pertinent to Dudley Moore, when he was growing up at 146 Baron Road.

 

Baron Road – Dagenham – where Dudley Moore grew up – living there with his mother/father and older sister

 

Baron Road – Dagenham

 

146 Baron Road-Dagenham – where Dudley Moore grew up

 

The former ‘Dagenham County High Grammar School’ – which Dudley Moore attended having passed his 11 Plus exam whilst at ‘Green Lane Junior School’

 

By the age of 6 Dudley Moore had become a choirboy at his local ‘St. Thomas Church’ – Burnside Road, Dagenham. In just a couple years later, he regularly played the pipe-organ there.

 

As a young lad Dudley Moore attended the ‘Kingsley Hall Youth Club’ in Dagenham,

 

Me – outside Kingsley Hall Dagenham – where Dudley Moore used to attend Youth Club – and later, when he was a global superstar of the silver screen – he would return every in August of every year to pop in and say hello to social club members, and have a cuppa and a sing-song with them.

 

At the age of 11 whilst attending Dagenham County High, because of his noticeable musical talents, Dudley Moore earned a scholarship to the prestigious ‘Guildhall School of Music’ in central London – where he studied harpsicord, violin, music theory & composition, organ and piano.

 

‘Guildhall School of Music’ – Moorgate, central London – where Dudley Moore continued his musical studies, having won a scholarship to there at 11 years old.

 

Whilst Dudley Moore was studying for his degree at Oxford, he developed a friendship with the now famous writer Alan Bennett – and along with Bennett’s mates Jonathan Miller and Peter Cook, they put together and performed a satirical comedy review which they called “Beyond the Fringe”.

 

In 1961 Dudley Moore’s stage partner Peter Cook purchased an old run-down London strip club in Greek Street-Soho, and reopened it as the “Establishment” club – where up and coming satirists and ‘alternative’ comedians would perform & the Dudley Moore Trio would play

 

 

The commemorative plaque displayed on the exterior wall of what was once The Establishment Club

 

Peter Cook & Dudley Moore as TV stars – as a result of their BBC series ‘Not Only But Also’

 

Me – outside the building in London’s Soho district – that was once the ‘Establishment’ club

 

The “Dudley Moore Trio” was formed in the basement of the Establishment club. The ‘Trio’ consisted of Moore on piano, Chris Karan on drums and Pete McGurk on double bass.

 

Just one of the 8 albums that the Dudley Moore Trio released during the mid 1960’s

 

Another of the 8 albums that the Dudley Moore Trio released during the mid 1960’s

 

The Dudley Moore Trio’s popularity wasn’t just confined to the UK – they were also massive ‘down-under’ in Australia.

 

On my way to the ‘Stapleford Granary’ venue near Great Shelford in Cambridgeshire – You certainly don’t see many of these in the Big ‘Smoke’ 🙂

 

You also don’t ever get the opportunity to stand in the middle of a railway line in the ‘Big Smoke’ 🙂

 

The public notice board situated outside the ‘Stapleford Granary’ venue. You can see the advert for ‘The Chris Ingham Quartet’s – The Jazz of Dudley Moore’ gig, on the far left of the bottom row

 

The Stapleford Granary – the event location – nr Great Shelford in Cambridgeshire

 

me – pre-gig, and in the grounds of the ‘Stapleford Granary’ venue

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet pre-gig, setting up and doing a soundcheck for their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet pre-gig, setting up and doing their soundcheck – with my old friend ‘Gentleman’ George Double, on the drums

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet pre-gig, setting up and doing their soundcheck.

 

Me – pre-gig, meandering about in the darkness backstage 🙂

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet take the stage of the ‘Stapleford Granary’ – to perform their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet on stage at the ‘Stapleford Granary’ – performing their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

Pianist Chris Ingham’s provided a commentary throughout the set, that gave the audience interesting background info to Dudley’s life and the stories that lie behind the numbers being played.

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet on stage at the ‘Stapleford Granary’ – performing their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet on stage at the ‘Stapleford Granary’ – performing their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

My old mate from my old Hackney days, ‘Gentleman’ George Double – not only ‘thumped tubs’ throughout the set – but also dished out some vocal accompaniments 🙂

 

The Chris Ingham Quartet on stage at the ‘Stapleford Granary’ – performing their “The Jazz of Dudley Moore” set

 

The ‘Chris Ingham Quartet’, say farewell to the highly appreciative ‘Stapleford Granary’ – having been called back on for an encore 🙂

 

Me & my old mate ‘Gentleman’ George Double – post gig at the ‘Stapleford Granary’ venue

 

 

“Come on you Irons” – An ‘Evening with Pellegrini & Noble’ – 17/04/2019

Posted on by Posted in Sporting People .

Those that follow ‘London Shoes’ will be fully aware that I am a biiiiiiig fan & a season ticket holder of “West Ham United FC”.

Therefore I was extremely chuffed to unexpectedly receive a letter in the post the other day, from long serving club captain Mark Noble, inviting me to a special event entitled an “Evening with Pellegrini & Noble” held at the teams London Stadium ground where a specifically selected number of supporters will spend the evening with club Manager ‘Manuel Pellegrini’ and club captain ‘Mark Noble’.

The event was held at the club Chairmen’s prestigious, and I have to say, very impressive ‘Great Briton Lounge’ – at no cost at all to me, and with a free ‘cheeky’ beer thrown in as well 🍺😲 all of which is very strange, as I didn’t even know that they knew me personally 😜😉

So, off I trotted last night to the London Stadium in Stratford-E15, to venture into parts of the ‘Hammers’ stadium that I’ve never been near before, and am likely to never set foot in again (eg the posh parts for the extremely wealthy 💷🍾🥂)

Anyway – I am pleased to report that it was an extremely enjoyable and humorous evening, that was compared brilliantly by the comical ex club legend ‘Alvin Martin’ 😄🎤

For the first half of the evening the audience were entertained by the club manager ‘Manuel Pellegrini’ and club captain Mark Noble (eg ‘Nobes’) – and then after an interval it was a Q&A session with ‘Nobes’ and ex-player, young Jack Collinson, whose career was tragically cut short by a horrific injury, but who is still involved with the club as a youth coach. 🗣🎤

The ‘vibe’ of the event was a really good and certainly provided me with an opportunity to see how the ‘other half’ live when attending home games – no flat beer-no queuing at the bar-no dodgy pies-& no mile long queue for the bogs for these folks matey 🚽🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♂️

I also got the chance to have an exclusive view of the new claret & blue ‘carpet’ that has this week, been laid to cover the running track encircling the pitch…….and it looks really good.

So – all in all, an entertaining one-off memorable experience for ‘London Shoes’, and one that was a little bit different from the norm. 😉

Sorry the photos are a bit grainy, but I thought that the ‘London Shoes’ footie fans out there may enjoy seeing them. 🏃‍♂️⚽️🥅

A nice surprise to receive in the post

 

On the way to the London Stadium – to try and locate the prestigious & exclusive ‘Great Briton Lounge’

 

Entrance to the ‘posh’ parts of the London Stadium

 

The Stadium and pitch – with the newly laid claret & blue carpet covering the running track

 

Neckin’ down my ‘free’ cheeky one, in the posh peoples bar  – ( However, they didn’t let me forget my roots, as they gave me a plastic cup)

 

All the other ‘invites’ starting to arrive and settling down for the start of the event (with their plastic cups too)

 

Ex player and club legend ‘Alvin Martin’ who did a brilliant job compering the evenings entertainment

 

The ‘Boss’ Manual Pellegrini – settles himself down on stage

 

Manuel Pellegrini explaining his football philosophies and strategies to compere Alvin Martin & the audience

 

Club Manager Manuel Pellegrini & club captain Mark Noble – field questions ‘from the floor’

 

Grabbing a ‘cheeky’ one during the interval – this is how the more affluent supporter enjoys a beer

 

Me & the late great legendary & long serving club captain Bobby Moore – (who ‘won’ the World Cup for England in 1966)

 

“Geoff & Geoff” – (Clemmo & Hurstie -) the legendary Geoff Hurst – who also ‘won’ the World Cup for England in 1966 – and still the only person to have score a hat-trick in a World Cup Final

 

The legendary Martin Peters -another West Ham player who also ‘won’ the World Cup for England in 1966 – scoring one of the goals in the 4-2 victory

 

The ‘Great Briton Lounge’ in all its finery

 

One of the many displays in the clubs Great Briton Lounge

 

The start of the second half of the event – this time my ‘cheeky’ beer was in a proper glass

 

Compere Alvin Martin introduces Mark Noble & Jack Collison to the second part of the evenings event

 

‘Nobes’ and Collison listening to the audiences questions

 

Mark ‘Nobes’ Noble answering the audiences questions

 

Mark Noble enjoying the ‘bants’ with the audience

 

A last look at the pitch – before heading off home

 

One final ‘cheeky’ one in the ‘Great Briton Lounge’ before heading off back home, following a very entertaining and enjoyable evening, with the ‘Gaffer’ and ‘Captain’ 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

“The Dagenham Roundhouse” & the “Village Blues Club’s” 13th Reunion

Posted on by Posted in Music, Pubs .

 

Two weeks ago ‘London Shoes’ published a music related blog on ‘Jazz at the Movies’ that was performed at “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre” – and a bit like when you’re waiting at a bus stop, it just so happened that, (totally unplanned), 2 ‘music’ related blog opportunities have cropped-up alongside each other.

Last Saturday, London Shoes headed off to Dagenham in the ‘London Borough of Barking & Dagenham’, literally spitting distance from where I grew up and roughly 15mins away from Romford where I live now.

The purpose of this particular ‘London Shoes’ visit, was to attend a special music event, in celebration of a historic milestone of a specific venue where, quite simply, “legends” were made.

The building in question is the “Dagenham Roundhouse” pub – a venue I used to frequent regularly during my early teens in 1972/73/74.

 

The Dagenham Roundhouse (not to be confused with the Chalk Farm Roundhouse in NW London – another legendary music venue), was built in 1936, on the western edge of the ‘Becontree Estate’.

The ‘Becontree Estate’ was built between the years 1921 to 1935 – and, at that time, was the largest council estate in the world; housing 100,000 people in 26,000 newly constructed council houses.

The ‘Roundhouse’ pub was specifically built as an ‘estate-pub’, which was deliberately sited on the edge of the estate, to keep potential drunken behavior and resulting trouble, away from the main residential area.

The Dagenham Roundhouse pub was built in a distinctive art-deco style – completely out of character with all the other buildings in the area – and it was very much the go-to place, for locals to sink a few ‘cheeky’ beers with your mates, work colleagues & neighbours.

In 1969 the pub started hosting ‘live’ music, and became known as the ‘Village Blues Club’ – referencing the area of the Becontree Estate known as ‘Dagenham Village’.

The ‘Village Blues Club’ very soon became one of London’s top rock music venues – in the days long before bands played large venues, arenas and stadiums etc.

The ‘Village Blues Club’ ran until 1975, and throughout its 7 year  tenure, it hosted all the top bands of that era – many of which went on to be colossal in the history of rock music.

Bands such as Led Zeppelin – Status Quo – Jethro Tull – Deep Purple – Thin Lizzy – Rory Gallagher – Slade – Mott the Hoople – Uriah Heep – Fleetwood Mac – Wishbone Ash – ELO – Stealers Wheel – Cockney Rebel – Queen – Dr.Feelgood – Groundhogs – Judas Priest – The Sensational Alex Harvey Band – Stray – Hawkwind – Genesis – Atomic Rooster….plus many many more, all  played the Dagenham Roundhouse back in the day

As mentioned earlier, it was very much my ‘go-to’ place in my early to mid-teens, often accompanied by my now bruv-in-law Vince, and I have such happy memories of the place, seeing bands such as Deep Purple – Thin Lizzy – Focus – Status Quo – Rory Gallagher – Slade – Atomic Rooster plus many more, throughout the early 1970’s.

However, by 1975 the world had become a different place – music, bands & gigs, had become a more ‘corporate’ organised affair – and with that came more money and bigger venues – also, public protection organisations such as the ‘Noise Abatement Society’ had a much stronger influence on matters than they had before – and all of this plus many other factors, sadly saw the demise of the Village Blues Club at the Dagenham Roundhouse.

The final gig at the Roundhouse was held in November 1975 where the band ‘Sailor’ (who had the hit single ‘Glass of Champagne’) were the headline act.

Through the ensuing years, the Village Blues Club area of the Dagenham Roundhouse pub became a snooker hall – a pentecostal church – a bingo hall – a furniture warehouse – a bedding retail shop – before finally becoming abandoned.

However – in 2008, some 35+ years since the club had hosted its very last ‘live’ gig – a ‘Village Blues Club-Nostalgia Group’ was set-up on Facebook – which attracted the interest of all the ex ‘Villagers’ that had attended gigs there throughout the years – and as a result, old memories were shared and old friendships were rekindled in the old place.

In May 2012 a Village Blues Club ‘Reunion’ gig was arranged by an ex-Villager Ken Ansted.

Although the original ‘hall’ was  unoccupied at that time, it was in need of some serious major repairs – and so this very first Reunion event was held in one of the bar areas of the Roundhouse pub, where the band ‘Stray’ (who had played the Roundhouse many times in the past – and were still gigging!!) played a ‘live’ set of all their old numbers to an enthusiastic throng of ex-Villagers.

In subsequent years, these annual Village Blues Club Reunions have simply gone from strength to strength, and have got bigger and bigger in terms of attendance and headline acts, with some ex-Villagers travelling from all parts of the world, just to be there and re-live their memories of the old place.

These annual Reunion events are now so popular that the original Village Blues Club ‘hall’ attached to the pub has now been completely renovated – and is now used for these events.

The Roundhouse pub themselves now run weekly live music events, mainly with performances by top tribute bands – and so the history of the venue has turned full circle, back to what is once was – a top ‘live’ music venue.

To date, there have been a grand total of 13 Village Blues Club Reunion events held at the Dagenham Roundhouse – and I have been fortunate enough to have attended all but 1 of them – watching bands such as :- John Coughlan’s Quo – Dr.Feelgood – Stray – The Pink Torpedo’s – Son of Man – Groundhogs – Wishbone Ash – Atomic Rooster.

All of the ‘Reunion’ bands, or the musicians within them, are linked in some way to the Dagenham Roundhouse, as they have all played the Village Blues Club at some stage throughout its history.

So – last Saturday saw the 13th Village Blues Club Reunion, an event that was historic in its own way as it was also the 50th Anniversary of the opening of the Village Blues Club in 1969.

The gig was headlined by ‘Atomic Rooster’ – a band that had originally played the Roundhouse in 1972 & 1973 – and the support act was an excellent local band called ‘Landmarq’ – who knocked out some fine self-penned progressive-style material.

From a personal perspective, Atomic Rooster’s ‘Death Walks Behind You’ album (released in 1970) was the very first record of so called ‘progressive’ music that I had ever bought (I was about 13 at the time) – and I will always remember the album fondly, as my dear old mum had flatly refused me to place it in the record rack that stood next to our radiogram in our front room – mum would say that the album cover was ‘pure-evil’, and she felt that it might give the wrong impression of us to any visitors.

The 3 members of ‘Atomic Rooster’ that played on their 1970 ‘Death Walks Behind You’ album are sadly no longer with us, but the band today, comprises of band members throughout subsequent years.

Atomic Rooster did an excellent job of knocking-out their 2 biggest hit singles of the early 1970’s – ‘Tomorrow Night’ & ‘The Devil’s Answer’ – plus a great selection of tracks from the many albums that the band released in their heyday.

For this somewhat historic event for the Dagenham Roundhouse, I was accompanied as always by my bruv-in-law Vince (an ex-Villager himself) and my ex work colleague at Barclays, Tony (who isn’t an ex-Villager, but has attended many of the previous Reunions with me& Vince).

Me, Vince & Tony – along with all the other ex-Villagers and old ‘heads’ in the packed house, thoroughly enjoyed the music that ‘Landmarq’ and of course the headline act ‘Atomic Rooster’ were banging out, and had a great time soaking up the whole nostalgic ‘vibe’ of the evening – and lets hope there will be many more future Reunions to come.

So – the Dagenham Roundhouse pub & its Village Blues Club (1969 – 1975) – not only a part of music history but also a part of my history.

Hope ‘Shoes’ followers enjoy the accompanying photos

And remember……..let’s keep music ‘Live’

 

The Dagenham Roundhouse was built in 1936, on the western edge of the ‘Becontree Estate’ – which was the largest council estate in the world, when it was constructed between the years 1921 – 1935

 

 

Scenes from around the Dagenham Roundhouse pub

 

The Dagenham Roundhouse pub – famously known as a place where ‘legends’ were created

 

Me – with my brother-in-law Vince, and ex work colleague Tony – entering the old Village Blues Club hall at the Dagenham Roundhouse pub

 

 

The now renovated Village Blues Club hall at the Dagenham Roundhouse pub – slowly starting to fill-up with ex Villagers

 

Waiting for the support band Landmarq, to kick-start the evening

 

The support band Landmarq – banging out their stuff

 

Opening act Landmarq – getting all the old ex Villagers in the mood

 

The support band Landmarq – continue to warm up the ‘Villagers’

 

Me – Tony & Vince – awaiting the arrival of Atomic Rooster on stage

 

“Atomic Rooster” – at the time of the release of the album ‘Death Walks Behind You’ in 1970

 

The cover of Atomic Rooster’s 1970 album ‘Death Walks Behind You’ – which my dear old mum thought was ‘evil’

 

Another big Atomic Rooster album in the 70’s

 

Vince – Me – Tony – awaiting the arrival of Atomic Rooster on stage

 

The Roundhouse stage – all set for Atomic Rooster

 

Atomic Rooster knocking out their excellent and entertaining set – on the Dagenham Roundhouse stage

 

Atomic Rooster on stage

 

Rooster on stage

 

Atomic Rooster banging out their choons

 

Atomic Rooster on stage

 

Rooster on stage

 

Atomic Rooster ‘live’ on stage

 

The guitarist of Atomic Rooster on stage

 

Atomic Rooster on stage

 

Atomic Rooster on stage

 

Atomic Rooster’s excellent guitarist – dishing out his licks on stage at the Dagenham Blues Club

 

A shot of Atomic Rooster – from side stage

 

Me – knocking back a b&w ‘cheeky’ one at the Dagenham Roundhouse

 

a blurred Vince, Me & Tony – standing in front of some geeza called Freddie

 

Me – enjoying a ‘cheeky’ beer or two, at my old teenage haunt – The Dagenham Roundhouse

 

Me – some 45+ years earlier at the Dagenham Roundhouse (probably around 1972) – I was knocking back ‘cheeky’ ones even then

 

An ex-Villager, saying bye-bye to the Dagenham Roundhouse following another great evening’s entertainment – see her again soon

“The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre” & a bit of “Jazz At The Movies”

Posted on by Posted in Music .

This week’s ‘London Shoes’ activity focused its attention on one of my favourite topics – a ‘music’ related blog.

The subject matter in question, for this week’s publication onto the London Shoes website, is: – “The ‘Other’ Palace” Theatre – which is just a couple of minutes’ walk from Victoria Station, in the direction of Buckingham Palace.

The reason for attending this particular theatre, was to witness another ‘live’ music event where my ex-drum tutor ‘Gentleman’ George Double (from way back in late 1990’s when I was managing the Barclays Bank branch in Mare St-Hackney, and George was a customer) – had yet again, very kindly arranged for me to be ‘with the band’, allowing me to have access all areas backstage, enabling me to take some behind-the-scenes photos to accompany my blog.

The gig in question was a performance by the ‘Chris Ingham Trio’ who were accompanied by Mark Crooks on sax and clarinet (and of course my good friend ‘Gentleman’ George Double on drums).

The Chris Ingham Trio were accompanying one of London’s (and beyond) most popular female jazz vocalists, the brilliant and entertaining “Joanna Eden” – to perform the excellent “Jazz at the Movies” set.

Joanna Eden has performed her jazz influenced music all over the world and has been on the support bill for top-draw jazz musicians such as Jamie Cullum and Courtney Pine.

 

Joanna Eden has released 4 albums including over 35 original songs.

She has performed ‘live’ sets on BBC’s Radio 2 – and internationally read music magazines such as ‘Mojo’ & ‘Time Out’ have given her work extremely favourable reviews, even going as far as describing her as the UK’s Nora Jones.

The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre itself has an interesting history in its own right.

The actual history of the site dates right back to 1766, when a Chapel stood there. This Chapel lasted a long time, as it wasn’t until 1924, that it was finally deemed to be too run-down and beyond repair.

The site then became the ‘St. James’s Picture Theatre’ cinema, which then, in 1931, became the ‘Westminster Theatre’ – and the old chapel’s crypt was converted into dressing rooms and a bar.

However, by the late 1990’s the building was again very close to being demolished – but was saved following some heavy objections by influential ‘faces’ in the theatre world.

In 2009 the Westminster Council granted permission for another theatre to be built on the site – and as a result, in 2012 it reopened as the ‘St. James’s Theatre’.

In 2016 the building was bought by Andrew Lloyd Webber’s ‘Really Useful Theatre Group’, and renamed as “The’ Other’ Palace”-Theatre.

Today, the theatre seats 312 in its main stage area, and roughly 120 in its ‘Studio’ section deep in the bowels of the building.

The theatre also has its own ‘The Other Gin Palace’ bar and its own ‘The Other Naughty Piglet’ restaurant.

So – for the evenings entertainment, Joanna Eden & the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks, performed their entertaining and excellent “Jazz At The Movies” set on the theatres Studio stage, banging out tunes in a jazz style from popular films including ‘Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid’ – ‘The Fabulous Baker Boys’ – The Aristocats – The Pink Panther, plus many more – which the full-house audience lapped up, and demanded encores.

For me, (thanks yet again to the kindness of ‘Gentleman’ George Double) I was again able to experience the gig from a sort of ‘roadie’ perspective, which obviously enabled me to take a number of ‘behind-the-scenes’ photos to accompany the blog.

So that’s now 3 jazz gigs that London Shoes has blogged and published, where I have been lucky enough to get close-up to the action ( The Elgar Room – Ronnie Scott & now The Other Palace Theatre), and hopefully there will be more on the same theme to come.

Hopefully the accompanying photos help create the ‘vibe’ of the evening’s thoroughly enjoyable entertainment.

 

Victoria Station – the nearest stop to ‘The Other Palace Theatre – which is just a couple of minutes walk away, in the direction of Buckingham Palace

 

In 2016 the building was bought by Andrew Lloyd Webber’s ‘Really Useful Theatre Group’, and renamed as “The’ Other’ Palace”-Theatre.

Me – in Palace Road, with “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre” in the background 🙂

 

Outside ‘The Other Naughty Piglet’ be and restaurant entrance of ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

Me – backstage at ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

 

Soundcheck

 

Soundcheck

 

Soundcheck

 

Soundcheck

 

Soundcheck

 

Soundcheck

 

Me – backstage at ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

Just before the pre-gig soundcheck at ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

‘The Other Palace Theatre’ – Jazz ‘Gig List’

 

 

The excellent Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Joanna Eden-performing “Jazz At The Movies” on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Mark Crook (sax) & George Double (drums) – performing ‘Jazz at the Movies’ on stage at ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

 

Joanna Eden-performing “Jazz At The Movies” on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Joanna Eden at the piano

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – perform in their “Jazz At The Movies” set on the Studio stage of “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

My old drum tutor, and good friend ‘Gentleman’ George Double – tub thumping whilst providing accompanying vocals – on stage at ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

Joanna Eden-with the Chris Ingham Trio featuring Mark Crooks – knocking out an encore following their “Jazz At The Movies” at “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

Me – knocking back a ‘cheeky’ one at the bar situated deep down in the bowels of ‘The Other Palace Theatre’

 

Me – neckin’ down another ‘cheeky’ one backstage at the Studio stage of “The Other Palace Theatre”

 

Me & my drum teacher from the old Hackney days – ‘Gentleman’ George Double

 

Following an excellent nights entertainment and experience – it’s bye-bye to “The ‘Other’ Palace Theatre”

 

“Seven Dials”-London WC2…..it’s rise & fall & rise again !!

Posted on by Posted in Streets .

 

This week “London Shoes” went in search of a particular area of central London situated between Tottenham Court Road tube station in the north, and Covent Garden tube station in the south – an area that I should have already been familiar with, bearing in mind that in the late 1970’s I spent 4 years working in a bank, just a stone’s throw away – but I have to be honest and say that I knew very little about this place and particularly its significant historic past.

So – the subject matter of this week’s London Shoes website publication is all about a fascinating area known as “Seven Dials”-London WC2.

“Seven Dials” is a particular district of London that was designed by a ‘Thomas Neale’ way back in the late 1600’s – when the area was mainly just fields.

Throughout the late 1600’s Thomas Neale was one of the most influential men on the London scene. He had been an MP – he had been Master of the Royal Mint – he was the first man to set-up the very first Lottery scheme in Britain (with all proceeds to the Crown) Neale was very much a man-about-town, who had friends in very high places.

Thomas Neale was also a big gambler, not just with his money, but also spending other people’s money on new projects and schemes.

Anyway – Neale saw that certain people were making a lot of money from designing and constructing new housing, especially over in wealthy west London – and he wanted a piece of that action, over to the east side of central London.

Because he had done quite a few jobs for the Monarchy, he was bequeathed a large area of land that was mainly just fields – located in the area we now know as the Covent Garden district.

In his quest was to make the area attractive to London’s wealthier residents, and so he designed a layout of new roads and new houses that he believed would turn the area into one of London’s most prestigious residential districts.

These roads and residences were laid out like a star-fish, and comprised of 7 roads that were set-out in a series of triangles, which all converged at a centre point.

Now – there was a reason as to why the streets were set-out in triangular shapes, and that was because at that time rental income was determined by the size of a building’s exterior frontage, not the size of its interior – so Neale was deliberately looking to maximise his rental income.

The construction work for this new project was finally completed around 1693, and when everything was finished and ready to go, Neale commissioned Britain’s top stonemason ‘Edward Pierce’ (who had worked with Sir Christopher Wren on the construction of St. Paul’s Cathedral), to design and build a massive ‘Sundial Pillar’ that would be the centre-piece of the district, where all the 7 roads converged.

Thomas Neale instructed Pierce to attach sundials to the very tip of this Pillar – hence the reason why the district was named as “Seven Dials”.

However – Thomas Neale’s vision of the area becoming one of London’s most prestigious districts, where only the rich and famous would live – did not materialise. In fact, it had completely the opposite effect, as ‘Seven Dials’ very soon became one of London’s worst and most notorious slum areas.

The whole district soon became renowned for its gin-palaces, pubs, brothels and gambling dens. At one stage, there was a pub on every corner where the 7 streets converged.

‘Seven Dials’ was one of London’s most dangerous districts, where violence, muggings, sexual assault, pick-pocketing, prostitution, drunkenness, debauchery and gang warfare – were a daily occurrence.

In fact, those locals that had not been lucky enough to move away, and long before the Met Police force was formed – had to chip-in to hire ‘night watchmen’ to patrol the streets in an attempt to try and keep some kind of order.

Even the retail shops in the area were a disaster – mainly selling 2nd/3rd & 4th hand goods.

Throughout the early to mid 1800’s, the ‘Seven Dials’ district deteriorated even further – when hundreds of lower-class and poor Irish workers moved into the area, attracted by the cheap rents charged on single rooms that had once made up the large houses – and also the illegal practice of sub-letting was rife throughout the entire district.

Even the renowned poet John Keates, famously described ‘Seven Dials’ as being a place:-

“Where misery clings to misery for a little warmth – and where want and disease lie down side by side, and groan together”

In 1773 the authorities ordered the removal of the original ‘Sundial Pillar’, as it had become a common meeting place for street gangs, and a location from where all the violence in the area seemed to originate from.

In Victorian times, the street slang term for inner city slums such as the ‘Seven Dials’ district, was the ‘Rookeries’ – as its inhabitants had the same habits as the rook bird, who stole, cheated and lived in untidy and dirty nests.

However, as the 1800’s drew to an end, housing in London expanded at a rapid rate, and this had the effect of taking a bit of pressure off of the ‘Seven Dials’ district and slowly but surely, more affluent people started to move into the once inhabitable area , and this in turn encouraged new businesses into the area.

This improvement in circumstances and conditions continued throughout the 20th Century, to the extent that the ‘Seven Dials’ district is today has become one of the more desirable areas of London – attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors and tourists every year.

The majority of its original Georgian and Victorian buildings are still intact, and at least 25% of them are now Grade I or Grade II listed.
In fact, old John Neale’s legacy still lives on with Neal Street, and Neal’s Yard being big tourist attractions where loads of independent businesses such as coffee shops, bakeries, cheese shops and cosmetic shops have totally transformed the area.

It just goes to show how much certain areas of London have changed for the better over the last 100 years or so.

The ‘Neale’s Yard’ area is not the only attraction that brings visitors to the ‘Seven Dials’ district – there are loads of other unique historic landmarks throughout the area – such as:-

The ‘new’ Sundial Pillar :-
In 1989 an exact replica of the original Pillar that was removed in 1773, was built and erected, and was officially opened by Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands

St. Giles-in-the-Field Church:-
The present St. Giles Church dates back to 1733, but there has been buildings on the site dating right back to the 1100’s.
It used to be a Monastery – then a Leper colony – then a plague burial pit – an execution stop-off point – before it became the church as it is today.

It is now a Grade I listed building, which means that it can’t be touched inside or outside.

Cambridge Theatre:-
This famous theatre was built in 1930 and is located on one of the corners of ‘Seven Dials’ where the 7 roads converge – directly opposite the ‘Sundial Pillar’.

The Crown Pub:-
Is another building located on one of the corners where the original 7 roads converge – with the Sundial Pillar directly opposite it.
The pub was built in 1833, and its exterior still has its original Victorian tiling.

It is a pub which was once described by Charles Dickens as being “A hot bed of Villainy”

The Punjab:-
On the corner of Neal Street, is one of London’s oldest Indian restaurants – having traded there since 1946.

Blue Plaques:-
Displayed on one of the houses inside Neale’s Yard is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that Monty Python’s Michael Palin and Terry Gilliam worked on Monty Python material from there for quite a while.

Another blue plaque on display on a building down at Seven Dial’s Monmouth Street, commemorates the fact that the legendary Beatles manager Brian Epstein once ran his business empire.

Green Plaque:-
Down in the Long Acre area of Seven Dials/Covent Garden, there is a green plaque on display that commemorates where Britain’s very first bicycle’ the ‘bone shaker/hobby horse’ was invented and manufactured there.

The ‘Punch & Judy’ flagstone:-
In the actual Covent Garden square itself, there is flagstone embedded into a wall – to commemorate the spot where in 1662 the very first Punch & Judy show was said to be performed.

Agatha Christie:-
On the pavement of Great Newport street there stands a distinctive statue commemorating the globally famous author and playwright ‘Agatha Christie’, who is the only woman to have had 3 plays on the go in the West End at the same time, and whose ‘Mousetrap’ play is the longest running in the history of theatre.

Choccywoccydoodah:-
Nothing historic about this specialist chocolate shop – I just luv the name – and the fact that it attracts loads of punters.

Throughout this day out, I was privileged to be accompanied by my former Canary Wharf banker worker work colleague and partner-in-crime for over 10 years – me ol’mucka ‘Jackie’ who did a great job on the navigational front, and she also took some mean photos – however, adopting a ‘no publicity’ stance, she was very insistent that she should not be in any of them.

Anyway – after a tiring day wandering all over ‘Seven Dials’ and ‘Covent Garden’ – we were very much in need of some liquid refreshment and a nosebag – and so we headed off to the excellent “Montagu Pyke’ pub, a Wetherspoons situated down the Charing Cross Road.

Montagu Pyke was a famous impresario in the early days of public cinemas in London – and the pub itself used one of his former cinemas. In fact it was opened in 1911 and was the last of the 16 cinemas he owned throughout London, before he went broke.

So – after a few ‘cheeky’ ones and a plate of southern fried chicken goujons & chips, it was time to reflect on what had been a successful day blogging the ‘rise & fall-and rise again’ of “Seven Dials” – London WC2.

Hope the accompanying photos help tell the story.

Covent Garden tube station – the nearest stop to the “Seven Dials” district of London – (me negotiating my way across busy Long Acre)

 

The ‘Seven Dials’ streets, even have their own bollards

 

One of the streets that lead into the ‘Sundial Pillar’ – the centre of London’s ‘Seven Dials’ distric

 

Another of the streets that lead into the ‘Sundial Pillar’ – the centre of London’s ‘Seven Dials’ district

 

Another of the streets that lead into the ‘Sundial Pillar’ – the centre of London’s ‘Seven Dials’ district

 

The ‘Sundial Pillar’ – the centre-point of the ‘Seven Dials’ district, where the 7 roads converge

 

Another view of the Seven Dials ‘Sundial Pillar

 

The sundials, at the very top of the ‘Sundial Pillar’ at the centre-point of the ‘Seven Dials’ district

 

The inscription on the ‘Sundial Pillar’ at the center of the ‘Seven Dials’ district of London

 

Me – with the Seven Dials ‘Sundial Pillar in the background

 

Me – near to “Neal’s Yard” – references to Thomas Neale are all over the place

 

The entrance to the alley that leads to the popular tourist attraction that is Neal’s Yard

 

The entrance to Neal’s Yard

 

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Me – inside Neal’s Yard – and outside the Neal’s Yard Remedies shop

 

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Me – outside one of the independent shops inside ‘Neal’s Yard

 

Displayed on one of the houses inside Neale’s Yard is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that Python’s Michael Palin and Terry Gilliam worked on Monty Python material from there for quite a while.

 

I’m sure I spotted old ‘Thomas Neale’ himself puffing on a ‘lardie-dah’ – inside Neal’s Yard

 

Spotted filming in Neal’s Yard – was the excellent TV historian presenter Ruth Goodman – currently appearing in the Gregg Wallace series ‘Inside The Factory’

 

St. Giles-in-the-Fields church – The present Church dates back to 1733, but there has been buildings on the site dating right back to the 1100’s. It used to be a Monastery – then a Leper colony – then a plague burial pit – an execution stop-off point – before it became the church as it is today. It is now a Grade I listed building, which means that it can’t be touched inside or outside.

 

Inside ‘St. Giles-in-the-Fields’ church – The present Church dates back to 1733

 

The Cambridge Theatre – this famous theatre was built in 1930 and is located on one of the corners of ‘Seven Dials’ where the 7 roads converge – directly opposite the ‘Sundial Pillar’.

 

The Crown pub – located on one of the corners where the original 7 roads converge – with the Sundial Pillar directly opposite it. The pub was built in 1833, and its exterior still has its original Victorian tiling. It is a pub which was once described by Charles Dickens as being “A hot bed of Villainy”

 

Just one of the streets Seven Dials that reflects Thomas Neale’s influence on the area

 

Me and me bald patch, outside the ‘Punjab’ restaurant on the corner of Neal Street – The Punjab is one of London’s oldest Indian restaurants – having traded there since 1946.

 

Displayed on one of the houses inside Neale’s Yard is a blue plaque commemorating the fact that Python’s Michael Palin and Terry Gilliam worked on Monty Python material from there for quite a while.

 

Beatles manager ‘Brian Epstien’ – ran his business empire from the shop with the blue plaque displayed over its door

 

A close-up of the blue plaque on display on a building down at Seven Dial’s Monmouth Street, commemorates the fact that legendary Beatles manager Brian Epstein once ran his business empire.

 

In Long Acre just down the road from Seven Dials, there is a green plaque on display that commemorates where Britain’s very first bicycle’ the ‘bone shaker/hobby horse ’bike was invented and manufactured there

 

In the actual Covent Garden square itself, just down the road from ‘Seven Dials’, there is flagstone embedded into a wall – to commemorate the spot where in 1662 the very first Punch & Judy show was said to have been performed.

 

Me – underneath Mr. Punch’s commemorative stone in Covent Garden – just a couple of streets away from Seven Dials

 

Me – underneath one of the many Agatha Christie commemorative landmarks in the Seven Dials/Covent Garden area

 

The Agatha Christie commemorative statue – in Gt. Windmill Street, just a couple streets from the centre of ‘Seven Dials’

 

Me – by the Agatha Christie commemorative statue – in Gt. Windmill Street, just a couple streets from the centre of ‘Seven Dials

 

Me – outside the brilliantly named “Choccywoccydoodah” establishment in the ‘Seven Dials’ district

 

Outside the ‘Montagu Pyke’ pub in the Charing Cross Road

 

Inside the “Montagu Pyke” pub. Montagu Pyke was a famous impresario in the early days of public cinemas in London – and this pub itself used to be one of his former cinemas. In fact it was opened in 1911 and was the last of the 16 cinemas he owned throughout London, before he went broke.

Me – neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one inside the Montagu Pyke pub

Me – caught in conversation with my old work-mate Jackie – my accomplice for the day – whilst neckin’ down another enjoyable ‘cheeky’ one

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ‘Lost’ Blog – “Charles Holden” – legendary tube station architect

Posted on by Posted in People, Transport - Rail .

I have always been intrigued when reading stories about incidents where ‘lost’ music tapes of top recording artists, are discovered collecting dust in someone’s loft or attic at some obscure location.

Well –“London Shoes” has had its own experience of this scenario this week, when a never published ‘lost’ blog was discovered whilst conducting a ‘spring clean’ of the ‘Shoes’ archives.

The blog in question was undertaken way back in sunny June 2017, at a time when ‘London Shoes’ was still in its infancy, having only started its life some 4 months earlier.

Anyway – just like an old Beatles, or any other famous band’s ‘lost’ recordings, I felt it was only right to resurrect this ‘lost’ London Shoes blog, and give it the ‘life’ it deserves, alongside all the others that have been published.

So – the subject matter of this ‘lost’ blog is one ‘Charles Holden’ – a man who has left us with an everlasting legacy of work, that ‘all’ of us, whether we be Londoners or just visitors to this magnificent city, will viewed and touched at some stage in our everyday lives.

Charles Holden – 1875 – 1960 :
Born in Bolton in 1875, Charles Henry Holden endured a tough childhood. His father went bankrupt and his mum died when he was just eight years old.

Charles Holden’s first jobs were as a railway store clerk and then as a chemical laboratory assistant. He then moved on to work as a trainee ‘articles clerk’ with a reputable Manchester architects EW Leeson , a role which enabled him to continue his studies at the Manchester School of Art – where he became their star pupil.

Having graduated from the Manchester School of Art, Holden went in to design and architecture for employment.
He soon became a partner of a prominent and very successful architectural business ‘Adams, Holden and Pearson’, which continued to operate right up until the 1970’s.

Charles Holden’s earliest architectural design works were for gothic type hospital constructions, many of which are still around today.

He was also commissioned the prestigious job of designing many of the WW1 war graves in France.

In 1923 Charles Holden experienced a break in his fortune that saw his name rise to prominence within the design industry – when Frank Pick, the then general manager of the ‘Underground Electric Railways Company of London’ (later to become London Transport and now Transport for London), commissioned Holden to re-design the interior of Westminster Tube Station.

At that time Holden had absolutely no experience whatsoever in designing for the transport industry, but by using the simple modernist styles he had used for his war graves work – he created a completely new style of tube station ticket hall that was constructed of Portland stone, with walls covered with ceramic tiling.

The ticket office fixtures and fittings and the customer signage was all designed to display the Underground Railway ‘roundel’ of the time.
Following the favourable feedback received from the public regarding his transformation of Westminster tube station, Frank Pick then commissioned Charles Holden to provide the same sort of design for the interior of “Piccadilly Circus” tube station, and the interior and exterior of “Clapham” tube station.

By the late 1920’s Charles Holden had been responsible for the redesign of a number of tubes station within what is now known as the Northern Line.

The ‘Underground Electric Railways Company of London’ were so impressed with his work that in 1926 they commissioned him to design a new headquarters for them at ’55 Broadway’ above St James Park tube station. When finished, this building was one of London’s most talked about constructions because of its design and structure – its art deco style interior, and the fact that it was clad in Portland stone.

In 1930, London Underground (as it was known as then) was planning extensions of the Piccadilly Line to the west, north-west and north of London, and a new type of station was wanted – and Charles Holden was again called upon to be responsible for their design.

For these stations Holden created simple designs consisting of cylinders, curves and rectangles that were built in plain brick, concrete and glass.

The extensions to the Piccadilly Line crossed over existing routes operated by the Underground network, and as a result a number of stations had to be rebuilt to accommodate additional tracks.

Sudbury Town in west London was the first station to be rebuilt in 1931, and its design went on to form a template for many of the other new stations that followed.

All in all, Charles Holden used his simplistic ‘box’ or ‘cylindrical’ designs, with a ‘lid’ on top – to adapt up to 39 tube stations throughout the 1930’s and into the early 40’s – the majority of which are still in use today and are now Grade 1 and Grade 2 ‘listed’.

In 1933 the ‘Underground Electric Railways Company of London’ became ‘London Transport’ and Charles Holden’s designs were used to also transform tram/bus stops and shelters.

Holden’s very last pieces of work for London Transport were the art-deco designs for Wanstead and Gants Hill tube stations on the then recently extended Central Line extensions.

In 1932 – because of the success of the London Transport Head office building at 55 Broadway, Holden was commissioned to design ‘Senate House’ for the University of London, near Russell Square.

At the time, the design of this 29 story building was unique, and it was (right up until 1957) the tallest building in London – and like the London Transport Head Office building, it was clad in Portland stone.

Charles Holden died in 1960. His body was cremated at Enfield crematorium and a memorial service was held at St Pancras New Church, where Holden had designed the altar in 1914.

So – for a boy from a poor background, who did not have the best of starts in life – this shy, unassuming, teetotal vegetarian, certainly made his mark on London, that left future generations with a legacy of work that millions of people use and observe to this very day, and scenery that has become a backdrop to the lives of Londoners and visitors to this wonderful City.

Interestingly, during his lifetime, Charles Holden turned down 2 offers of a Knighthood – because, in his opinion, he felt strongly that architecture/design should be viewed as a collaborative activity ‘by the people, for the people’.

So – having travelled the length & breadth of the tube network tracking down the late great Charles Holden’s work – and before heading off for home, I dropped into “The Feathers” pub, directly opposite the old London Transport Head Office, and Charles Holden designed ’55 Broadway’ in Westminster, for a quick ‘cheeky’ beer.

There has been a pub in or around this site since the late 1700’s – and ‘The Feathers’ itself, first appears on a London street map, as far back as 1869 – and as with all remaining London pubs from the Victorian era, there are still a number of the original fixtures & fittings within the building that help create a cosy vibe.

The photos accompanying this piece provide a ‘journey’ through just some of Holden’s work – which I hope you find interesting.

 

The great man himself – ‘Charles Holden’

 

Arnos Grove tube station – just one of many of Charles Holden’s unique and iconic designs.

 

Charles Holden’s art-deco designs – at Arnos Grove tube station

 

Holden’s ’roundel’ design at ‘Oakwood’ tube station

 

Charles Holden’s simplistic design for ‘Bounds Green’ tube station

 

Holden’s design for ‘Turnpike Lane’ tube station

 

Me – outside Holden’s ‘Turnpike Lane tube station

 

A marketing campaign of the time – the new tube stations that were designed by Charles Holden

 

Charles Holden’s unique ‘flying saucer’ design for ‘Southgate’ tube station

 

A touch of art-deco inside Southgate tube station

 

Holden’s ‘St. James’s Park’ tube station – with London Transport’s ’55 Broadway’ Head Office above it. Now a Grade I listed building, which means it cannot be ‘touched’ inside or outside

 

‘Boston Manor’ tube station – very close to Heathrow Airport – another classic, simplistic Charles Holden design

 

 

Me, in June 2017 – outside Holden’s ‘Boston Manor’ tube station – close to Heathrow Airport

 

‘Northfields’ tube station – yet another of Holden’s designs from the 1930’s

 

‘Osterley’ tube station – another of Holden’s simplistic, but unique designs, and another one that is close by to Heathrow Airport

 

A Heathrow Airport bound plane – above Osterley tube station

 

The unusual design of ‘East Finchley’ tube station – another one of Charles Holden’s masterpieces

 

Charles Holden’s magnificent interior art-deco design for Gants Hill station (which was my local tube station when I was growing up!!)

 

Holden’s magnificent design for ‘Senate House’ – right next to Russell Square – central London. At 29 stores high, this was London’s tallest building right up until the 1970’s!!

 

 

Inside Holden’s ‘Senate House’

 

Inside the Charles Holden designed ‘Senate House’