Geoff Clements, Author at London Shoes

all about “Vauxhall” – London SE 11

Posted on January 14, 2019 by Geoff Clements Posted in Bridges, Historic Buildings, Pubs, Transport - Rail .

For the second ‘London Shoes’ escapade of 2019 – the ‘shoes’ took me ‘darn-sarf’ of the River Thames to the district with the strange named of “Vauxhall”.

For this jaunt I had the pleasure of being accompanied by my old mate Les Bannell – who I first met way back in 1974, some 45 years ago, when we were both junior members of staff with Barclays Bank – and then, in the late 1980’s we actually worked together at the Whitechapel/Mile End branch, when Les was the Office Manager and I was one of his assistants.

Anyway, Les has been a big follower of the London Shoes website from its very beginnings, and took a day off work to join me on a mission to find out all about “Vauxhall-London SE11” an area that is literally just a mile or so up- river from Battersea, where I was born some 62 years ago this month.

Vauxhall’s origins as a town date back to the 1200’s when a nobleman by the name of ‘Falkes de Breaute’ owned most of the land in the area and lived in a huge mansion he built there called “Falkes Hall” – this later became “Fox Hall” – and the area then evolved into being known as “Vauxhall” at the time of the opening of the “Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens” in 1729.

Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens:

From the 1600’s onwards there had always been public park land located in and around this part of London, but in 1729 the land was bought up by a Jane Fauxe, a descendant of the original land owner Falkes de Breaute.

By 1740, a formal garden had been designed and laid out with floral displays, trees and footpaths – with a view to it being an ‘outdoor’ entertainment area for London’s noble and wealthy only, rather than the general riff-raff.

Entertainment at the Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens at the height of its popularity comprised of dancing – eating – drinking – balloon flights – circus acts – firework displays – magnificent illuminations and lots of music – in fact, the composer ‘Handel’ was the Gardens resident musician and performed a number of ‘gigs’ there throughout the early 1700’s.

With the construction of the first Vauxhall Bridge in 1816, more and more visitors from the north of the Thames converged on Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens for their entertainment.

However, after 2 centuries worth of activity, the Gardens were demolished as there was a serious demand for residential housing and development – and the land was used for the construction of much needed housing.

Today, a small area of park land next to Vauxhall’s railway arches – is the only remaining part of what was the old Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens.

Vauxhall Bridge:

Leading up to the early 1800’s the once ‘village’ of Vauxhall had become a big ‘town’ – and as a result, there was an urgent need for more roads to be constructed to connect people to other districts of London and beyond.

In 1816 the very first Vauxhall Bridge was opened which provided a route from the south side of the Thames at Vauxhall, across the River to Pimlico and beyond on the north side of the River.

Vauxhall Bridge was` then re-built in 1906, and it is this construction that is still stands today. It was the first bridge in London to carry Trams across the Thames – and later on, it was the first of London’s bridges to introduce a bus lane.

The unique aspects about Vauxhall Bridge are the large bronze statues that are attached to its ‘span’. These 2 ton, twice life-size figures depict Agriculture, Architecture, Engineering & Pottery industries that were historically prominent throughout the area – there is also a wonderful little model of St. Paul’s Cathedral attached to the side of the bridge – because on a clear day, you can see St. Paul’s dome in the far distance, from the middle of the bridge.

However, the strange thing is that unless you are on the river bank or travelling by boat under the bridge – because of where these statues are positioned, they can hardly be seen – and so a lot of people aren’t aware that they are there.

Vauxhall’s Rail Stations:

Two rail stations serve the district of Vauxhall – the overground line, which was opened in 1848 – and the Victoria Line tube which was opened in 1971.

Vauxhall ‘overground’ rail station has a specific historical significance, as it was one of the main destinations for London’s “Milk Trains”.

With the growth of the railways, milk could be transported throughout the night from rural agricultural areas – to the main city’s where it would then be bottled up and delivered to the surrounding urban towns.

In Vauxhall’s case, milk would arrive from areas in the South West – where at Vauxhall Station Platform 1, there was a huge discharge pipe that was used to syphon the hundreds of gallons of raw milk into a United Dairies bottling plant operating beside the station – once bottled up, it would then be distributed all over the ‘smoke’ so that Londoner’s could make cuppa’s and pour milk on their cornflakes!!

However, by the 1960’s the transportation of ‘cow juice’ was by road not rail, and so the milk train service was no longer required.

Vauxhall Bus Station:

There is a massive bus station located in Vauxhall, right next to the 2 train stations.

It is the 2^nd busiest bus station in London – and its claim to fame is that its structure comprises of 2 huge ‘arms’ that go upright towards the sky. These ‘arms’ contain 167 ‘solar panels’ which provide the bus station with a third of its electricity.

Brunswick House:

In the middle of all the hustle & bustle of Vauxhall’s busy roads, there stands Brunswick House – a Georgian mansion that was originally built in the mid 1600’s and then re-renovated in 1758, at a time when it stood on a 3 acre estate.

Brunswick House was owned by the railways from the 1860’s to 1994 – it then remained derelict for a few years – but today it is a high end café, restaurant and antiques showroom.

The ‘Secret Intelligence Service’ MI6 Building:

Situated on Vauxhall’s Albert Embankment is the “SIS” MI6 headquarters, which they have occupied since 1994.

In 2000 it was hit by a Russian anti-tank rocket, believed to be activated by the IRA – the rocket launcher was found in the nearby New Spring Gardens site.

The building has featured or been referred to in the James Bond films:- Golden Eye – The World is not Enough – Skyfall & Spectre

The American Embassy:

From the middle of Vauxhall Bridge you can see the new American Embassy building that was formally opened in January 2018, when the US flag was raised there for the first time.

The ‘Royal Vauxhall Tavern’:

This structurally attractive building was built way back in 1862 and opened first of all as a pub.

After WW2 it became a known gathering place for gay men – and today it is noted for being London’s oldest gay entertainment venue, particularly popular for presenting drag act shows.

The building has acquired Grade II listed status, in recognition of its importance to LGBT communities.

Vauxhall Motors:

The ‘Vauxhall Iron Works’ was founded way back in 1863 – and manufactured pumps, cranes and marine equipment.

In 1903 it started manufacturing cars – producing 70 vehicles in its first year – one of which actually competed in the 2018 London to Brighton run.

In 1905 the Vauxhall Iron Works moved to a larger site in Luton Bedfordshire, and in 1907 changed its name to ‘Vauxhall Motors Ltd’ – and the rest, as they say, is history.

Displayed on a wall at the large Sainsbury’s supermarket in Vauxhall, is a plaque commemorating the site where the original ‘Vauxhall Iron Works’ operated from.

St. George Wharf Tower (aka Vauxhall Tower):

The Vauxhall Tower is a good example of how the Thames riverside areas that were once considered as slums have been redeveloped into affluent residential areas.

This 50 storey 594ft tall residential sky-scraper, that opened in 2014 – is currently the 8^th tallest building in London – and is a significant visual landmark throughout the Vauxhall and other nearby areas.

So – after an extremely tiring day, exploring Vauxhall under London’s cold & grey January skies – me and me old mucker accomplice Les Bannell, trotted off to the “White Bear” pub in nearby Kennington, for a couple of well earned ‘cheeky’ ones.

The White Bear is one of the oldest pubs in South London, as there has been a boozer on the site since 1780, and today it still retains some of its original fixtures & fittings – and located up on its 1^st floor is the award winning ‘White Bear Theatre’.

Now – the reason me & Les sought out this particular pub, was because back in 1884, one of Les’s ancestors ‘Sam Bannell’ was the publican there – so, we thought that, armed with all this amazing info, we would at least be offered a free pint……..sadly, we were wrong – as we still had to pay a ridiculous £5.50 for a small bottle of lager – and as I said sarcastically to the barman ‘at least Dick Turpin wore a bleeding mask’!!!

However, it is a lovely historic old London boozer, with a comfy friendly vibe and well worth a visit if you are ever in the area – and a venue that provided a pleasant end to an enjoyable day.

Vauxhall Bridge re-built in 1906, and it is this construction that is still stands today. It was the first bridge in London to carry Trams across the Thames – and later on, it was the first of London’s bridges to introduce a bus lane.

Vauxhall Bridge – looking towards the East, and with the River Thames at low tide

To quote a Morrissey album title…”Vauxhall & I’

One of the large bronze statues that are attached to Vauxhall Bridge. These 2 ton, twice life-size figures depict Agriculture, Architecture, Engineering & Pottery industries that were historically prominent throughout the area

Another close-up of one of the statues that adorn Vauxhall Bridge – Trouble is, not many people know they are there…..coz they can’t see ’em !!

One of the statues holding ‘St.Paul’s Cathedral – which (on a clear day) can be seen from the middle of Vauxhall Bridge

The view of the Dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral – as seen from the middle of Vauxhall Bridge – excuse the quality of the photo, it was a particularly grey, damp, cold & miserable – e.g. typical London weather 🙁

A view of the River Thames from Vauxhall Bridge – looking eastwards

A view of the good old River Thames from Vauxhall Bridge looking westward – with the iconic Battersea Power Station in the distance

A Heron have a paddle in the Thames by Vauxhall Bridge

Today, a small area of park land next to Vauxhall’s railway arches – is the only remaining part of what was once the magnificent “Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens”.

A scene from inside Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens

Me & Les – me old mate for over 40 odd years, who I first met way back in 1974, when we were both junior members of staff with Barclays Bank

A pleasant abstract of friendly graffiti – on Vauxhall Bridge

Vauxhall Tube Station – on the Victoria Line and opened in 1971

Vauxhall Overground Rail Station – opened in 1848 – and has a specific historical significance, as it was one of the main destinations for London’s “Milk Trains”

Vauxhall overground rail bridge

Photo of an old ‘Milk Train’ – that would have travelled overnight from the farming areas – into specific destinations in the ‘Smoke’ – for bottling-up and then distribution

Photo of a more modern ‘Milk Train’ – this one belonging to United Dairies – who operated a bottling plant, next to Vauxhall Station

Vauxhall Bus Station – the 2nd busiest bus station in London – and its claim to fame is that its structure comprises of 2 huge ‘arms’ that go upright towards the sky. These ‘arms’ contain 167 ‘solar panels’ which provide the bus station with a third of its electricity.

A different view of the ‘solar panel’ arms of Vauxhall Bus Station

Bang in the middle of busy congested Vauxhall, sits Brunswick House – a Georgian mansion that was originally built in the mid 1600’s and then re-renovated in 1758, at a time when it stood on a 3 acre estate

Situated on Vauxhall’s Albert Embankment is the “SIS” MI6 headquarters, which they have occupied since 1994. The building has featured or been referred to in the James Bond films:- Golden Eye – The World is not Enough – Skyfall & Spectre

From the middle of Vauxhall Bridge you can see the new American Embassy building that was formally opened in January 2018, when the US flag was raised there for the first time (you can just about see the flag to the left of the photo!!)

The ‘Royal Vauxhall Tavern’ – built way back in 1862 and opened first of all as a pub, but now is London’s oldest gay entertainment venue – which is Grade II listed, in recognition of its importance to LGBT communities

The Vauxhall Tavern – has long been famous for its ‘Drag Act’ entertainment

Me – outside the ‘Royal Vauxhall Tavern

Displayed on a wall at the large Sainsbury’s supermarket in Vauxhall, is a plaque commemorating the site where the original ‘Vauxhall Iron Works’ operated from.

A large mural on display in the Sainsbury’s supermarket in Vauxhall – which commemorates the areas connection to the main industries that once operated in the town of Vauxhall

‘St. George Wharf Tower’ – A 50 storey, 594ft tall residential sky-scraper, that opened in 2014 – It is currently the 8th tallest building in London – and is a significant visual landmark throughout the Vauxhall and other nearby areas

Another view of Vauxhall’s iconic ‘St. George’s Wharf Tower’ and surrounding architecture

The White Bear in Kennington is one of the oldest pubs in South London, and there has been a pub at the site since 1780 – Today it still retains some of its original fixtures & fittings – and located up on its 1st floor is the award winning ‘White Bear Theatre’.

A rather blurry Me & Les neckin’ down the first round of ‘cheeky’ ones in the White Bear Pub – Kennington – just down the road from Vauxhall

Me old mate from Barclays Mr. Les Bannell – outside the “White Bear” pub in Kennington – which, back in 1884, was run by one of his ancestors – “Sam Bannell” !!

Me & Les getting stuck into a 2nd (and ridiculously expensive) ‘cheeky beer’ in the “White Bear” pub – Kennington – at the end of an exhausting but enjoyable day trekking round Vauxhall in our ‘London Shoes’

Vlog – Southwark Bridge & it’s nearby historic landmarks

Posted on January 1, 2019 by Geoff Clements Posted in Video Blogs .

A ‘Video Blog’ of:-

Southwark Bridge – ‘Seedy’ Southwark & it’s nearby historic landmarks

The “Royal Albert Hall” & Jazz in its “Elgar Room” – Xmas 2018

Posted on December 30, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Historic Buildings, Music .

Those that follow the “London Shoes” website and/or Twitter feed, will have probably assumed (like me), that the previous week’s blog about “London’s Xmas Lights”, was the ideal fitting finale to bring 2018’s blog activity to a natural conclusion.

However, (and totally unplanned) I just happened to attend an event last week, that not only took in one of London’s most iconic and globally recognised historic buildings – but also had me experiencing a one-off occurrence that involved my love of music – and as such, I feel that this particular experience warranted being the ‘new’ final “London Shoes” blog of 2018.

So – the topic to end 2018’s blog activity, is entitled the “Royal Albert Hall” & Jazz in its “Elgar Room”.

So – focusing firstly on the “Royal Albert Hall” itself, my trek up there last week uncovered the following facts about the history of the place, some of which, I never knew about.

Way back in in the early 1860’s Queen Victoria’s husband and Consort-Prince Albert, was keen for your average Londoner to have a permanent venue that the general public could visit, specifically to enjoy and appreciate the ‘arts’ and ‘sciences’ – and so he commissioned the construction of a huge venue, to be designed in the style of Rome’s Coliseum, which was to be called “The Central Hall of Arts & Sciences”.

Sadly though, poor old Prince Albert ‘popped-his-clogs’ in 1861, and so did not live to see the venue’s completion and its opening in 1871, when Queen Victoria changed the venue’s name to the “Royal Albert Hall” in honour of her beloved late husband.

When it first opened to the public, the Albert Hall could seat 8000 people.

Today the RAH’s has a seating capacity of 5,400, and the venue hosts up to 350 performances per year, which include the famous ‘Proms’, an event that has been held there annually since 1941.

Apart from its unique building design, its most notable internal fixtures are its organ, which is the largest pipe organ in the UK, comprising of some 9,000 pipes – and also its fibre-glass ‘sound dampening’ discs (a bit like a load of upside down mushrooms) that were erected and suspended from the Hall’s ceiling back in 1969, to improve and enhance the venue’s acoustics.

Another interesting little known fact about the Albert Hall is that during WW2, it was deliberately left off the German’s ‘bombing target’ list – as it was more important to them to utilise it as an aerial landmark, when navigating their way through the skies when dropping their bombs on London.

So – having briefly touched upon the history of the Albert Hall, I will now move on to my ‘unique’ experience there last week.

Those that follow the ‘London Shoes’ blogs, may recall a piece I did a couple of months back, where I visited the magnificent ‘St. Martins-in-the-Field’ church, that overlooks Trafalgar Square – for the specific purpose of attending a jazz gig being performed in the main nave of the church, by a band that included my good friend ‘Gentleman’ George Double, my drum teacher from way back in the late 1990’s, when I was manager of Barclays Mare St-Hackney – and, a then young George, was a customer.

Anyway – whilst browsing the ‘net’ I became aware that ‘Gentleman’ George and his band were playing the Albert Hall’s “Elgar Room” a couple of days before the Christmas.

The ‘Elgar Room’ is a performance venue inside the Royal Albert Hall, that hosts hundreds of events each year, the most popular being its ‘Late Night Jazz’ concerts.

So – I contacted the Albert Hall to see if I could get a ticket for George’s bands gig – but was disappointingly told that the concert had sold out ages ago – so, in other words ‘no chance mate – jog on’!!

However, I pinged a text over to George to wish him the compliments of the season, and happened to mention how disappointed I was that I couldn’t get a ticket for the RAH gig.

George, being the gentleman that he is, gave the matter some thought, and came up with a solution by notifying the Albert Hall’s authorities that I was a member of the band’s ‘crew’ (a drum technician – e.g. a ‘roadie’ as it was known as, back in my day) – which meant that I was ‘on the list’ to enter the Albert Hall via the ‘stage door’, and issued with a ‘pass’ that enabled me to see some areas of the Hall not always accessible to the public.

This arrangement also meant that I could also view the band’s performance from a vantage point right next to the stage (close to the drum kit of course)….a blinding result for a music lover like me!!

The band’s music for the evening was a jazz enthused set entitled “A Swingin’ Xmas” which comprised of their excellent jazz interpretations of well-known popular Christmas songs – It was a really entertaining set that was well received and thoroughly enjoyed by the all the punters packed into the ‘Elgar Room’.

So – for me, this totally unexpected one-off, really enjoyable experience ended up being one of the highlights of my Xmas – and one that I feel was ideally placed to close my ‘London Shoes’ blogs for 2018.

Hope the accompanying photos bring the story to life a little bit for you.

Hope all you “Shoes” followers had an enjoyable Christmas & I wish you a Happy New Year – see ya in 2019

The ‘Royal Albert Hall’ in all its Christmas glory

The seasonally decorative main entrance to the Royal Albert Hall

Me – making my way to the ‘Stage Door’ at the Albert Hall

The ‘Stage Door’ entrance of the Royal Albert Hall

Me – as a ‘roadie’ entering the Royal Albert Hall via the Stage Door

Inside the Albert Hall – where there had been an afternoon/early evening orchestral performance of “The Snowman” – and the venue had been packed to the rafters with kids, when I arrived

A view of the arena and some of the fibre-glass ‘sound dampening discs’ that were suspended from the ceiling back in 1969 – to enhance the venues acoustics

A close-up of the ‘sound dampening discs’ suspended from the ceiling of the Albert Hall

Me – and the Royal Albert Hall’s famous pipe organ – the largest in the UK

The band running through a sound-check in the “Elgar Room”

Another shot of the band conducting their sound-check in the Royal Albert Hall’s “Elgar Room” venue

Me – ‘tinkling the ivories’ in the “Elgar Room” on a ‘Joanna’ donated to the Albert Hall by Sir Elton John – whilst ‘Ella Fitzgerald’ and the Beatles ‘George & John’ look on

Another pic of me ‘tinkling the ivories’ in the “Elgar Room” on the ‘Joanna’ donated to the Albert Hall by Sir Elton John

The band’s promo photo for their “A Swingin’ Xmas” show

The “Elgar Room” stage – awaiting the band’s arrival

The band in full ‘swing’ delivering their ‘Swingin’ Xmas’ set

‘Gentleman’ George Double on drums – my old drum tutor from way back in the mid 1990’s.

Another shot of the bands in action in the “Elgar Room”

So – here’s wishing all ‘London Shoes’ followers a Happy Christmas and a Healthy & Happy 2019 & thank you for following “London Shoes”

London’s “Christmas Lights” 2018

Posted on December 18, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Quirky Topics, Streets .

Being a Londoner at this particular time of year, there is always a pull on the old conscience, to take a trip ‘up west’ to see first-hand, the traditional annual Christmas Lights displayed on Oxford Street, Regent Street, South Moulton Street, and these days, many other streets in the surrounding area – a seasonal tradition that began back in 1954.

As a nipper, a trip ‘up-west’ to see the lights, was something that my mum & dad always tried to get done before Christmas Eve – but quite naturally, as you get older, the enthusiasm tends to wain a bit – especially when you’ve heard that devastating news that ‘Father Christmas’ doesn’t really exist.

However, in the past few years I have felt the urge to resurrect the pilgrimage up London to see the ‘lights’ again – maybe becoming a grandad has re-kindled some of that pre- Christmas excitement.

So – for the “London Shoes” website blog this week, and accompanied by my Mrs – I made way to London’s West End, to try and get in to the old Christmas spirit.

The weird (and slightly disappointing) thing about this year’s decorative light displays is that they are exactly the same as last years!!!

This ‘duplication’ was not intended – the original plan and design had been for the ‘lights’ to be themed around the forthcoming completion and opening of the “Crossrail” project – the new rail network running under London’s streets and out into the ‘burbs’, stopping at all the major main line connection stations – but, and probably to be expected, the official opening date has had to be put back as the project is some considerable way off completion.

So – viewing the 1,778 lights on display in Oxford Street for 2018, is a bit of a deja-vu experience for those that went to see the lights last year.

It’s not just the street lights that draw in the public – many of the stores also have invested in magnificent festive window displays, particularly the world famous “Selfridges” department store – whose theme for its 2018 window displays, is all about ‘Glam Rock’.

Their ‘Rock n Roll’ Santa windows consist of mannequins inspired by the likes of Freddie Mercury and David Bowie – plus other iconic ‘Glam Rock’ and music artefacts such as vintage microphones – clothing – numerous classic guitars and vintage theatre seats – all of which are surrounded by a backdrop of thousands of yards of shimmering glitter curtains

In “Regent Street, it is also the return appearance of their wonderful 2017 ‘Angels’ display.

However, in the famous Carnaby Street the main theme for its Xmas decorations this year, is something new and spectacular – To celebrate the 40^th anniversary of the release of Queen’s ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’ – the songs entire lyrics are displayed in neon, in the skies above the street – a brilliant display, well worth seeing.

So – having spent a couple of hours wandering crowded streets full of shoppers (and pick-pockets) taking in all the sites, we decided to hop on the Central Line at Bond Street and head off to Notting Hill Gate station, and then stroll up to Kensington for the specific purpose of visiting the famous “Churchill Arms” pub – where there are some 93 Christmas Trees emblazoned with 21,500 lights, completely smothering the exterior of this excellent iconic old boozer.

The pub is famous for decorating its exterior – with thousands of ‘flowers’ in the summer months, and then ‘Christmas trees’ during the festive period. It’s a wonderful sight to see, and it certainly attracts the punters – so much so, I had to sadly ‘cock a snook’ at the massive queues at the bar – and uncharacteristically for me, had to make my way back home without a ‘cheeky’ beer having touched my lips 🙁

Anyway –that’s London’s 2018 Xmas Lights for ya – hope the accompanying photos have made you feel a bit Christmasy 🙂

The 2018 Christmas Lights of Oxford Street…..the same ones as displayed in 2017!!

The “Selfridges” department store in all its Xmas glory

Just one of Selfridges ‘Glam Rock’ themed windows displays

Another of Selfridges ‘Glam Rock’ themed windows displays

Me – and the current Mrs Clements – gambling amongst the Xmas lights of Oxford Street

A Unicorn & it’s Baby – for sale in “Selfridges” – a ‘snip’ at only £4,800. I’m sure my 2 little granddaughters would love to find this in their Christmas stocking!1

Toy cars on sale in “Selfridges” – a ‘snip’ at £2000 – and likewise, I’m sure my young grandson would be more than happy if he found one of these wrapped up under the Christmas tree

Xmas decorations inside “Selfridges” department store in Oxford Street

Me – being chased by a £4k dinosaur in ‘Selfridges’ department store – Oxford Street.

The “Angel” Christmas lights OF ‘Regent Street’, London W1 – Once again, the same as last years decorations

The decorative blue Christmas lights of ‘South Moulton Street’ – just off Oxford Street

Carnaby Street’s excellent displays of festive ‘neon’

The lyrics to Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” – are brilliantly displayed in neon in stages along London’s iconic ‘Carnaby Street’ – to commemorate the 40th anniversary of its release

Me – and my ‘accomplice’ for the evening – gambling through Carnaby Street.

The iconic and extremely popular “Churchill Arms” pub in Kensington – as it looks in the summer-time, completely smothered in floral displays.

The “Churchill Arms” Kensington – as it looks this week – completely smothered by 93 Christmas trees and 21,500 festive lights

A closer view of the famous “Churchill Arms” Kensington – as it looks this week –

“Historic & Notorious Alleys & Passages” – Pt 1 “London-E1”

Posted on December 14, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Pubs, Streets .

The subject matter for this week’s publication on to the ‘London Shoes’ website, is to be the first of what will be a series of blogs on the topic of London’s “Historic & Notorious Alleys & Passages”

To kick-start this series I made my way down to the Spitalfields/Aldgate/Whitechapel districts of my good old East End, to seek out 5 “Historic & Notorious Alleys & Passages-of London E1”.

First up was a small alley tucked away in the streets of Spitalfields called White Rose Court.

“White Rose Court”
White Rose Court first appears on a London street map of 1720.

Today, the alley is nothing much to write home about – but a couple of centuries ago, when Spitalfields was a notorious slum area, inhabited by mainly Jewish immigrants – White Rose Court was the location of 2 of the oldest and iconic Jewish bakeries in London – Levy Bros and Matzo’s.

To commemorate the fact that these famous bakeries operated from there, 4 wonderful statues of bakers going about their business, are embedded in an external wall – sadly above a burger bar.

“Artillery Passage”
Also located in the Spitalfields district – Artillery Passage first appeared on a London street map way back in 1677, and is very close to where ‘Jack the Ripper’ murdered his last victim Mary Kelly.

Back in Tudor times, the entire Spitalfields area was just open fields sitting just outside the City Walls.

Henry VIII commandeered the land and turned it into a military training ground for his troops (hence the ‘artillery’ reference).

The streets Georgian houses and shop fronts were built in the early 1700’s, and some of these original properties with their door and window structures and shutters, still remain.

At the very end of Artillery Passage is ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – which is London’s ‘oldest’ shop front. It was built in 1670 and renovated in 1756 when it was occupied by immigrant Huguenot silk weavers – and this is the very same building which stands today. It has been granted Grade 1 listed status, which means that both its interior and exterior have to be preserved for future generations.

“Puma Court”
This alley is also located in the Spitalfields district, and first appeared on a London street map, way back in 1677.

Historically, it is famous for being the location of the wonderfully preserved “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – a collection of Victorian cottages built in 1860, for the purpose of housing the poor amongst the fruit and wool workers who traded in the area.

The actual term ‘Liberty’ in this instance, is an old medieval word for ‘parish or area’.

These lovely old houses are still occupied today – but now sit within a ‘gated’ area. However, I was fortunate enough to gain access inside the ‘gates’, when a maintenance man working at the site, very kindly allowed me inside to take some photos.

Interestingly, ‘The Liberty of Norton Folgate’ was also the title of the last album released by the well-known London group ‘Madness’.

“Little Somerset Street”
This alley in the Aldgate district of E1, appears way back on a 1792 street map of London when it was known as “Blood Alley”.

It was named ‘Blood Alley’ because the alley and the area beyond, was full of ‘butchers shops‘.

The reason that these butchers located themselves there was because it was just outside the City Walls, and therefore they were able to avoid paying the extortionate tariffs that were charged by the authorities, for driving cattle through the square mile of the City.

Records and accounts from that time reveal that the alley was constantly flowing with blood from the livestock being slaughtered and butchered there.

‘Little Somerset Street’ (formerly Blood Alley) is also the location of the “Still & Star”, London’s last surviving ‘Slum Pub’ – the description that was given to a licenced premises that was once a private residential house.

The ‘Still & Star’ pub was opened in 1820 on a site where there were 8 butchers’ shops.

However, when I was there (during opening hours) it looked very much like the place was unoccupied and abandoned – so sadly, there was no chance of a necking down a ‘cheeky’ one there.

“Gunthorpe Street”
The final of the 5 alleys I sought out for this blog, appears on a London street map as far back as 1676 – when it was known as ‘George Yard’.

It was located in one of the poorest and roughest areas of Aldgate, London – with appalling slum housing occupied by the poorest of the poor – and an area where there was constant criminality such as muggings-stabbings-prostitution.

Some of the alleys old cobbled street still remains in situ – and today the brick arched entrance to the alley is decorated with glazed tiled murals (which could seriously do with a good old clean up) depicting the old Aldgate and Whitechapel areas.

Ironically, one of the surviving Victorian buildings in Gunthorpe Street – was once the “Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” which was built in 1886 – and for an area that was rife with crime, violence and prostitution, it seems a strange place to site a ‘Respectable Girls’ residence.

It was renamed ‘Gunthorpe Street’ in 1912, after a previous rector of the nearby St. Mary’s Church in Whitechapel.

This alley runs alongside the infamous “White Hart” pub, which was first opened back in 1721.

In 1888, just along the road from the pub – it was the site where ‘Martha Tabram’ was murdered by the infamous ‘Jack the Ripper’.

At the time of the ‘Ripper’ murders, one of the main suspects was Severin Klosowski (aka George Chapman), who ran a barber shop in the cellar of the White Hart.

So – having been an ‘alley cat’ all day – it was only right that I neck-down a couple of ‘cheeky’ ones in this infamous ‘White Hart’ pub.
Today the ‘White Hart’ understandably cashes-in on its ‘Ripper’ associations, with a number of decorative plaques and signs referring to old ‘Jack’, scattered throughout the bar and its exterior walls.

Hope you found this first ‘edition’ to what will be an on-going series of London’s historic “Alley’s & Passages” interesting and enjoyed the accompanying photos.

White Rose Court – Spitalfields E1 – the former site of 2 historic Jewish Bakeries

White Rose Court – Alley. Nothing much these days but over 200 years ago it was the site of 2 iconic Jewish bakeries

The 4 statues embedded into a first floor wall – on the corner of White Rose Court, Spitalfields – depicting the oldest Jewish bakeries that once operated from there over 200 years ago

A close-up of one of the ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1

A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1

A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1

A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1

Artillery Passage-Spitalfields, London E1 – An area that was once a military training site for Henry VIII’s troops

The old Georgian buildings down the alley that is “Artillery Passage”

Me – ambling down “Artillery Passage” – London E1

The old Georgian buildings down the alley that is “Artillery Passage”-London E1

More scenes from ‘Artillery Passage’-London E1

‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – which is London’s ‘oldest’ shop front – built in 1670 and renovated in 1756 when it was occupied by immigrant Huguenot silk weavers. This is the very same building which stands today.

Me – outside ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – London’s oldest existing shop front – a building that is now Grade 1 listed

Looking through the windows at the inside of ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’

Me – outside ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’-Spitalfields, London E1

This alley is also located in the Spitalfields-London E1 district, and first appeared on a London street map, way back in 1677.

The “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – located in ‘Puma Court’, London E1 – A collection of Victorian cottages built in 1860, for the purpose of housing the poor amongst the fruit and wool workers who traded in the area.

Scenes from the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

Scenes from the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

The “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

Scenes from inside the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

Scenes from inside the gated community that is the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

Me – inside the gated community that is the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

More exterior views of the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1

More street scenes of the Georgian architecture in ‘Puma Court’ – London E1

Street scenes of the Georgian architecture in ‘Puma Court’ – London E1

More street scenes from ‘Puma Court’ – London E1

“Little Somerset Street” – a very small alley situated in the Aldgate district of E1, appears way back on a 1792 street map of London when it was known as “Blood Alley”.

The alley that is “Little Somerset Street” Aldgate district of E1, once known as “Blood Alley”.

Me – in Little Somerset Street – Aldgate-London E1

‘Little Somerset Street’ (formerly Blood Alley) is also the location of the “Still & Star”, London’s last surviving ‘Slum Pub’ – the description that was given to a licenced premises that was once a private residential house.

Me – outside the “Still & Star” pub – located at the end of the ‘Little Somerset Street’ alley – Aldgate, London E1

A side view of the old ‘Still & Star’ pub – that was opened in 1820, on a site that also occupied 8 ‘butchers’ shops. You can clearly see its close proximity to the “City” – which is why all the butchers set up shop there, and why it was originally known as ‘Blood Alley’

A view from the entrance to the “Little Somerset Street” alley-London E1 – showing its close proximity to the ‘City’

“Gunthorpe Street”-Aldgate-London-E1. This alley first appeared on a London street map as far back as 1676 – when it was known as ‘George Yard’. It was located in one of the poorest and roughest areas of Aldgate, London – with appalling slum housing occupied by the poorest of the poor

“Gunthorpe Street”-Aldgate-London-E1.

The old cobbled path of Gunthorpe Street – Aldgate-London-E1

A surviving Victorian building in ‘Gunthorpe Street’ that was once the “Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” – built in 1886

“Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” – built in 1886

Me – at the entrance of the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley – Aldgate-E1

The entrance to the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley is decorated with glazed tiled murals depicting life back in the day in the Aldgate and Whitechapel areas.

The entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley runs alongside the infamous “White Hart” pub, which was first opened back in 1721.

References to the infamous “Jack the Ripper” are on display throughout the interior and exterior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley

References to the infamous “Jack the Ripper” on display throughout the interior and of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley – London E1

There are many other references to bygone years on display throughout the interior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley

Other references to bygone years on display throughout the interior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley

Inside the old “White Hart” pub – located at the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Alley’ – Aldgate-London-E1

Me – Inside the old “White Hart” pub

Neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ beer in the “White Hart” pub – next to the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’-London E1

Neckin’ down a 2nd ‘cheeky’ one in the “White Hart” pub – next to the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’-London E1

The ‘Link Boys’ & ‘Snuffers’ of old London town!!

Posted on December 6, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Quirky Topics, Street - Fixtures & Fittings .

This week’s blog for publication onto the ‘London Shoes’ website, in some ways falls into the category of ‘quirky’ – however, historically, the topic provides today’s world with a remarkable insight into an aspect of every day London life well over 200 years ago.

This week’s blog is all about the “Link Boys & Snuffers” of old London!!!

Today, we take street lighting for granted, but long before the invention of gas lighting and its implementation throughout London’s streets – Londoner’s had to make their own devices to enable them to find their way around the streets at night – streets that were particularly dark and dangerous after dark, making walking around them an extremely risky business.

Because there was no public lighting, the authorities encouraged the public to make their own arrangements regarding having sufficient lighting to find their way around after dark – and, to prevent potential crime, those Londoner’s residing in the more affluent streets and districts were advised to make provisions so that flamed torches/lanterns could be erected and displayed outside their front doors.

This ‘flamed torch’ lighting was not a problem for the wealthy as invariably they had servants in ‘service’ who would do the job of lighting up the front of the house – and more importantly, would carry a flamed torch in front of their ‘master’ whenever they were out and about on the streets at night.

However, the ordinary Londoner could not afford such luxuries – and so would have to rely on the services of a “Link Boy” to guide them through the darkness.

A “Link Boy” was really a young street urchin exploited in child labour – who would carry a homemade ‘flamed torch’ made from reeds and cotton and coated in wax, tallow and tar, that formed the ‘wick’ – this ‘torch’ was known as a ‘Link’.

‘Link Boys’ could be found on the corner of most of London’s busiest streets, and would charge punters a couple of farthings to provide a guiding light to wherever their destination was.

However, Link Boys were very often connected to criminal activity, and would be paid to lead their ‘clients’ down dark alleys , where there would be gangs of muggers waiting to ambush and rob them.

An interesting fact here is that the expression “Couldn’t hold a candle to” used when describing something as inferior to something else – derives from comparisons made at that time, between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ Link Boys!!!! – (it just goes to show, you learn something new every day)

“Link Boys” were regularly referred to in the literary works of Samuel Pepys and Charles Dickens – and even mentioned as far back as Shakespeare’s time in his play Henry IV.

With the eventual arrival and roll-out of gas street lighting, the role of the Link Boy obviously declined – but paintings and illustrations of those times, depict their existence and importance to every day London life.

So – what are ‘Snuffers’ all about??

When using a flamed torch to find your way around the streets, and having arrived at your destination – you then needed something to extinguish the ‘flame’ – and this would be done by using a ‘Snuffer’ (or link extinguisher, to give it its formal name).

These “Snuffers” were iron horn shaped fixtures that were attached to iron railings surrounding a front door of the wealthier and prestigious properties in London.

The ‘flamed torch’ would simply be ‘snuffed-out’ by sticking it in the ‘Snuffer’ – so as not to waste the wax etc. covering the wick of the torch – allowing it to be re-used over and over again.

So – my quest this week was to ‘sniff-out’ those ‘Snuffers’ that still remain in situ throughout London, some 200 years or more since they were used.

This was an enjoyable little challenge – and I have posted several photos of the ‘Snuffers’ I located – which hopefully bring the subject matter to life a little bit.

Having ‘sniffed-out’ these ‘Snuffers’ I decided to pay a visit to one of London’s historically infamous boozers – the “Viaduct Tavern”, just across the road from the Old Bailey, and built on the site of the old Newgate Prison.

This famous old pub first opened in 1869 – at the same time the iconic Holborn Viaduct landmark was opened.

It was one of London’s most notorious ‘Gin Palaces’ which also had an opium den located on its first floor. It was a seriously rough old joint – so much so, that the landlord would have ‘vet’ punters at a ticket booth located by the entrance door, and then hand out ‘beer vouchers’ to those that he felt wouldn’t cause any trouble when buying a beer at the bar.

So – having been given my ‘beer voucher’, it was left to me to sink a couple of ‘cheeky’ ones at the bar, before making my way back home.

Hope you found this one interesting and enjoy the accompanying photos.

Green Park tube station – the nearest stop to where the majority of the ‘Snuffers’ can be found

An old illustration showing a ‘Link Boy’ in action.

Another old illustration showing how ‘Snuffers’ were used to extinguish the flamed torches.

A close-up shot of a ‘Snuffer’ over 200 years old – located near St. James Street.

Me – with a ‘Snuffer’ above me barnet – in Cavendish Square

Berkley Square – the location of the majority of London’s remaining ‘Snuffers’

A row of houses surrounding Berkley Square, where most still have the 200 yr old Snuffers in situ

A house in Berkley Square with its ‘Snuffers’ still in situ

Another example of a Berkley Square ‘Snuffer’

A very picturesque & peaceful Berkley Square itself

Another original ‘Snuffer’ located in Berkley Square

And yet another of the Berkley Square ‘Snuffers’

And finally, one more original ‘Snuffer’ that can be found in Berkley Square

Nothing to do with ‘Snuffers’ – but a seasonally decorated frontage to a residence in Berkley Square

A scenic shot of Berkley Square itself

Me – having ‘sniffed-out’ all the ‘Snuffers’ in Berkley Square

An old illustration that depicts how the Link Boys would very often lead their ‘clients’ down a back alley – where they would be ambushed by a gang of muggers.

Amen Corner, at the back of the Old Bailey – where there can be found a row of old Georgian houses, which were once the homes of clergymen working at nearby St. Paul’s Cathedral – all o0f these houses still have their original ‘Snuffers’

The row of old Georgian houses, which were once the homes of clergymen working at nearby St. Paul’s Cathedral – all o0f these houses still have their original ‘Snuffers’.

The ‘Snuffers’ of Amen Corner

Me – alongside the ‘Snuffers’ of Amen Corner

Curzon Street Mayfair – where a couple of unusual ‘Snuffers’ are located

No.21-23 Curzon Street Mayfair – where the distinctive original ‘Snuffers’ have been painted gold

A close-up of the gold Snuffers of Curzon Street- Mayfair

Me – and the 2 gold “Snuffers” of Curzon Street Mayfai

Cavendish Square – another location where a few properties still have their original ‘Snuffers’ fixtures.

A picturesque and peaceful Cavendish Square

The ‘Snuffers’ of Cavendish Square

An example of the sort of residences that encircle Cavendish Square

St. James Square – where a fine example of an original ‘Snuffer’ can be found.

The original old Snuffers on display at No.10 St. James Square

A close-up of the original old Snuffer – in St.James Square

Me – in St. James Square itself

Little James Street – where an original ‘Snuffer’ fixture can be found

The original ‘Snuffers’ fixtures of No.28 Little James Street

A close-up of the ‘Snuffers’ of 28 Little James Street

Another close-up of the ‘Snuffers’ of 28 Little James Street

The infamous ‘Viaduct Tavern’ – just across the road from the Old Bailey. This famous old pub first opened in 1869 and was one of London’s most notorious Gin Palaces – possibly one of London’s roughest pubs throughout Victorian times

Me – neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one in the notorious Viaduct Tavern

Neckin’ down another ‘cheeky’ one in the ‘Viaduct Tavern’

The ‘Fake Houses’ of Leinster Gardens, Bayswater-W2

Posted on November 23, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Quirky Topics, Streets .

This week’s venture out for the London Shoes website posting, was short & sweet, but one that provides a typical example of the more unusual and quirky historic landmarks scattered across this metropolis.

The subject matter is all about the “fake houses” of Leinster Gardens, Bayswater W2 – and an interesting little topic it is too.
Leinster Gardens is a tree lined street located in the heart of the posh and affluent part of Bayswater – just a few minutes walk north of Hyde Park.

Its massive white 5 storey Victorian houses were built around the 1840’s – and the majority of these properties still have their original architectural features such as Corinthian pillars, large front porches, huge front doors, balconies, sash windows, street level ornate iron railings – and as a result, most of these buildings are today granted Grade II listed status.

However – among all these listed buildings sit 2 properties at no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens, which are not what they may appear to be from the outside – as they have no rooms – no ‘real’ windows – no letter boxes – no door handles…..and the 2 buildings are only 5ft in depth!!!

The reason for this is all to do with when London’s very first Underground Railway was constructed way back in the 1860’s.

When the Underground was first built, deep holes were dug throughout London’s streets to accommodate the rail tracks, and these large holes would then be covered over, creating a series of tunnels.

The rail route between Paddington and Bayswater cut right through and underneath Leinster Gardens – and the houses at no’s 23 & 24 had to be demolished to enable these early ‘steam driven’ Underground trains to ‘vent-off’ all their carboniferous steam before heading into the constructed tunnel.

Building this tunnel left an unsightly huge gap in the middle of Leinster Gardens where no’s 23 & 24 used to be – in what was a very posh and desirable street.

The local ‘toffs’ were not at all happy about this as they believed it lowered the tone of the area – and they kicked-up such a fuss, that the Metropolitan Railway Co, (the owners of the rail line), had to do something to calm the wrath of the public, some of which were very influential people.

So – in 1868 they decided to construct a ‘mock-up’ frontage of no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens, so that it blended in perfectly with all the other houses in the street.

Looking at the back of these 2 ‘fake’ houses, from the vantage point of neighbouring Porchester Terrace – it provides a clear view of what’s been done, as the houses either side of no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens, are structured together by a number of large steel struts and girders – and you can also see the current Underground rail tracks and tunnel entrance.

They did such a great job of building this façade, that even today there are ‘locals’ who are not even remotely aware that no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens don’t actually exist.

I was told by one of the residents of Leinster Gardens that all of the local ‘take-away/home delivery’ restaurants in the area have a filter on any calls they may receive ordering food to be delivered to 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens – and over the years there have been many instances where ‘fake’ events have been promoted by wrong’uns – selling tickets to unsuspecting punters.

These ‘fake’ houses at 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens are so convincing that they have appeared prominently as a back drop in scenes from popular tv series ‘Sherlock’.

Today, the fake houses are maintained and managed by TfL (Transport for London).

So – having spent some time seeking out these 2 ‘fake’ houses, and also taking time to have a look some of the other nearby streets in Bayswater – I ambled down to the end of Leinster Gardens, into Leinster Terrace, where I stumbled upon a wonderful little pub, the “Leinster Arms” – where I happily knocked back the customary couple of ‘cheeky’ beers.

This excellent little boozer dates all the way back to 1865, when it was opened as a pub called the ‘Scotch Stores’. It has a wonderfully decorative exterior and interior, and the side of the pub leads to ‘Leinster Mews’ – a very picturesque little collection of small mews cottages.

All in all a good old day out, discovering one of the more quirkier landmarks of London’s history.

Hope you enjoy he accompanying photos.

Bayswater tube station on the Circle & District line between Notting Hill Gate & Paddington – and just a couple of minutes walk from Leinster Gardens. This station originally opened in 1868.

Leinster Gardens – Bayswater, London W2

Me – across the road from the 2 famous ‘fake’ houses at no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens-Bayswater

The 2 famous ‘fake’ houses at no’s 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens-Bayswater.

The 2 ‘fake’ front doors of 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

A view of the false ‘painted’ windows and balconies at 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

Another view of the painted in Windows of 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

A close-up of one of the fake windows and it’s balcony

At the false front door entrances to the fake 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

Me – being a confused postman at 24 Leinster Gardens – where do I post a bloody letter

Porchester Terrace – where you can view the back of the fake frontages to 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

A view of the back of the 2 fake houses in Leinster Gardens – where you can clearly see the ‘gap’ between the real and fake houses

Looking down on the tube track that runs between the ‘gap’ – and also the back of the false frontage of 23 & 24 Leinster Gardens

A satellite view of the gap between the real and fake houses of Leinster Gardens – and the tube tracks running between Porchester Terrace and Leinster Gardens (photo courtesy of Bing Maps

Me at the wall in Porchester Terrace – where the back of the 2 fake houses in Leinster Gardens can be clearly seen

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

The streets of Bayswater

Me – walking the mean streets of Bayswater

The excellent ‘Leinster Arms’ pub in Leinster Terrace

Outside the ‘Leinster Arms’ pub – in Leinster Terrace

The ‘Leinster Arms’ pub – and the entrance to Leinster Mews

The Leinster Arms pub

The Leinster Arms pub

Leinster Mews down the side of the Leinster Arms pub

The little mews cottages situated down Leinster Mews

Inside the Leinster Arms pub

Me – neckin down a ‘cheeky’ one in the excellent Leinster Arms pub

Me – neckin down a second ‘cheeky’ one in the excellent Leinster Arms pub

“Beyond the Deepening Shadow” – the Tower of London’s tribute to the fallen heroes of WW1

Posted on November 11, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Military, WW1 .

Those who follow ‘London Shoes’ will be aware that I don’t usually do the more popular of London’s historic landmarks or tourist attractions. – however, this week was an exception, as it presented an opportunity to visit a globally recognised London landmark/attraction – at just the right time, and for the right reasons.

Along with many other thousands of sight-seers this week, my London Shoes took me down to the Tower of London, for the specific purpose of seeing the “Beyond the Deepening Shadow” commemorative tribute on display in its Moat.

“Beyond the Deepening Shadow” is a powerful symbol of remembrance in tribute to the fallen heroes of WW1 – and consists of 10,000 flames situated in the Moat encircling the Tower.

The Tower’s Moat is of particular significance to this tribute, as it was there that all the soldiers of the London battalions were lined-up and kitted out, before going off to War.

‘Beyond the Deepening Shadow’ runs for 8 nights leading up to and including the Armistice Day Centenary – with the majority of sight-seers viewing this unique tribute from pavement level.

However, I was one of the lucky ones fortunate enough to obtain a ticket that provided a tour of the Moat, led by the Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters), themselves all ex-servicemen.

This very rare access to the Moat enabled me to walk the perimeter of the Tower, and get right up close to the ‘flames’ and accompanying music – a one-off opportunity, that may never occur again.

The photos I took down in the Moat, do not do the tribute the justice it deserves – but I have posted a few to accompany this piece, and hope you enjoy them.

Shadwell-London E1 – inc The ‘Battle of Cable Street’ & ‘Shadwell Basin’

Posted on November 6, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Historic Docks .

This week’s London Shoes expedition took me to the east end of London, and to a small area down by the Thames a mile or so to the east of the Tower of London.

It may just be a small district, but it is a place steeped in history – and a place where plenty of its historic landmarks still exist, for everyone to appreciate and enjoy.

So – the publication onto the London Shoes website this week, is all about “Shadwell”-London E1.

Shadwell is a district of East London, in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets, situated on the north bank of the Thames, and it sits alongside and merges in with its close riverside neighbours Limehouse and Wapping.

Local archaeological digs have revealed that there were settlements in the Shadwell area as far back as the Roman occupation.

Up until the medieval times Shadwell was really just an uninhabited area of marshland – however, from the 16th century onwards, various draining projects were undertaken for the purpose of reclaiming some of the land from the Thames, and this reclamation work resulted in the development of various local maritime related industries and subsequently the construction of residential homes.

River related activities soon became the main industry of the area, with roperies, tanneries, breweries, mills, a huge waterworks and wharfs being constructed in the area.

The development of road links to and from London from the 16th century onwards, also contributed to the increase in industrial activity and trade and the growth of Shadwell’s population.

By the mid 1600’s the majority of Shadwell’s population were nearly all seafarers or people connected with maritime related trades.
Throughout the next couple of centuries the population of Shadwell became overcrowded, which resulted in its inhabitants experiencing poor housing and sanitary conditions – to the extent that the area soon became known for being one of London’s worst slums .

By 1801 the main commercial industry of the area, the ‘Shadwell Water Works’, were sold to the London Dock Company – who then developed two “Basin’s” – the east basin in 1832 and then the north basin in 1858. The London Dock Company then constructed a new entrance into these basins, from the Thames – that enabled the newer and larger ships into its waters.

Throughout the 1800’s Shadwell saw a massive increase in immigration as it became home to a large community of Asian seamen, brought over from British India by the East India Company. There also developed a large population of Anglo-Indians, from intermarriage between seamen and local girls – as well as smaller communities of Chinese and Greek seamen, who had also married with local girls.

However, by the beginning of the 1900’s the Shadwell Basin and the docks of its neighbours Wapping and Limehouse, started to become a bit outdated because quite simply, they could no longer cope with the rapid advances in shipping technology, and the new ships were now far too big , to fit it into these smaller docks.

Because of this, the shipping cargoes had to be unloaded downriver and then ferried by barge all the way back to warehouses in Shadwell and Wapping – which was obviously far too costly.

As a result of all this development in technology, and also the destruction that all the London docks took throughout the WW2 blitz – there was a gradual decline in the local maritime and nautical industries that had operated in Shadwell.

By 1969, Shadwell Basin and the other London Docks had all closed, and were bought up by the Tower Hamlets Council.

During the 1970s, Shadwell Basin and the other docks became derelict, before being bought up by the ‘London Docklands Development Corporation’ – who then went on to develop and regenerate the entire area, into what it is today.

In 1987 the Shadwell ‘Dockland Light Railway’ station was opened – and in recent years the Shadwell ‘Overground’ station has been developed – both stations provide direct links to central London, and also links out to the ‘burbs’.

Unlike some of the other London Docks which have been completely filled in, the Shadwell Basin still remains pretty much what it was like back in the day – and is now very popular with sightseers, cyclists, water sports enthusiasts, fishing – and of course, with the housing developments it has seen over the past couple of decades, the Basin area is a very desirable place to live.

The ‘Basin’ isn’t the only aspect of Shadwell’s history –one particular incident that put Shadwell on the map was the infamous “Battle of Cable Street” back in 1936.

East London has a long history of revolutionaries and activists, particularly in those areas that were once seen as the poorer and disadvantaged districts. One such person was “Sir Oswald Mosley” who was the one time leader of the ‘British Union of Fascists’.

On Sunday 4th October 1936, Mosley organised a demonstration march attended by all his ‘Black Shirt’ followers from all over the country. The fascists marched through the heart of London’s east-end, which at that time had a large immigrant population, predominantly Jewish.

The Metropolitan Police were called in to protect the thousands of British Union of Fascists marchers from the equally thousands of ‘anti-fascism’ demonstrators, that were made up of anarchists, communists, socialists and the Jewish communities – all of whom adopted a ‘they shall not pass’ stance by erecting road blocks and barricades made up of old furniture and anything else they could find to disrupt the flow of the march.

Tensions and emotions were obviously at fever-pitch, and by the time that Mosley’s ‘Black-Shirts’ reached Cable Street in Shadwell, it kicked-off everywhere, with fascist, the anti-fascists and Police all involved in a riotous street fight, that resulted in around 175 people, including women, children and Police, getting badly injured, which also led to around 150 arrests.

History references this entire event as the infamous “Battle of Cable Street” – and on the side of Shadwell’s old town hall building, there is a massive mural that depicts this event – and there is also a red plaque on display in Dock Street commemorating this historic incident.

Shadwell also has 2 wonderful churches that are rich in history and help define the district:-
St Paul’s– is Shadwell’s old parish church originally built in 1665, and known as the ‘Church of Sea Captains’. During the Great Plague the site was used as one of London’s plague burial pits.
The legendary explorer ‘Captain James Cook’ worshipped at St. Paul’s and his eldest son was baptised there.
The original church was demolished in 1817 and the present building, was erected in its place in 1821 – and it is said that 75 sea captains are buried there.

St George-in-the-East – Was built in 1729 and was Shadwell’s Anglican Church dedicated (obviously) to Saint George
The church took a hit from the WW2 bombing blitz, which destroyed a lot of the church’s interior, but the exterior walls and its “pepper-pot” towers remained intact.

St George-in-the-East is located on Shadwell’s Cannon Street Road, between ‘The Highway’ and ‘Cable Street’ – and it once appeared in the 1980 film The Long Good Friday starring Bob Hoskins.

In Shadwell’s King Edward’s Park, down its entrance near the Thames, is one of the four ‘shafts’ that once led down to the ‘Rotherhithe Pedestrian Foot Tunnel’. Originally this wonderful little ‘shaft’ building used to be a pedestrian route to the tunnel. The metal grills fixed to its windows, still have the lovely old ornate ‘London County Council’ (LCC) iron work designs on display.

So – Shadwell E1 – an area steeped in history, and a great place to spend a few hours exploring the ‘Basin’ (the most significant stretch of water surviving from the old historical London Docks) – and a place where you can also check out the Cable Street mural – the 2 magnificent churches – and also admire the splendour of the Georgian and Victorian housing and commercial buildings that still exist in some of Shadwell’s streets.

After a few hours trekking round Shadwell, and before setting off back home, I nipped into a pub called the ‘Hungerford Arms’ in nearby Commercial Street, for the mandatory quick ‘cheeky’ beer – there has been a pub on this sight for a couple of centuries, and the present building date’s way back to 1871.

All in all, the sights of Shadwell make a very pleasant day out.

Hope you enjoy the accompanying photos.

Shadwell is served by the ‘Overground’ station (as per this photo) and also a Docklands Light Railway station – both providing direct links to central London and beyond

Me – on me way to the ‘Shadwell Basin’

Views from ‘Shadwell Basin’

Shadwell Basin – with a view of the steeple of St. Paul’s Church

Shadwell Basin – with The Shard – the Gherkin – the Cheese Grater all in view

Shadwell Basin – now used for various watersport activities

Cable Street – Shadwell. So named because it was once the location of the ‘rope making’ industries for shipping on the nearby Thames

The red plaque on display in Cable Street-Shadwell – to commemorate the infamous ‘Battle of Cable Street’ in 1936

The ‘Battle of Cable Street’ Mural – on the side of what once was the old Shadwell Town Hall

A close-up of the Battle of Cable Street mural

A close-up of the Battle of Cable Street mural

A close-up of the Battle of Cable Street mural

A close-up of the Battle of Cable Street mural

Me – by the Battle of Cable Street mural

St. Paul’s Church – Shadwell

St. Paul’s Church – Shadwell

St. Paul’s Church – Shadwell

The graveyard of St. Paul’s Church-Shadwell – where it is said that up to 75 sea captains are buried

Me – ambling around in the churchyard of St. Paul’s church

Shadwell Basin – with a view of the steeple of St. Paul’s Church

A blue plaque – commemorating the fact that the legendary explorer “Captain James Cook” was once a resident of Shadwell

St. George’s Church – Shadwell – built in 1729

St. George’s Church – Shadwell – built in 1729

The gravestones displayed in St. George’s Church – Shadwell

The War Memorial – St. George’s Church

Me – amongst the gravestones in St. George’s Church – Shadwell

Examples of just some of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses that can be found in Shadwell

Examples of just some of the old Georgian & Victorian residential & commercial houses and properties that can be found in Shadwell

Examples of just some of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses that can be found in Shadwell

Examples of just some of the old Georgian & Victorian residential & commercial houses and properties that can be found in Shadwell

Examples of just some of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses that can be found in Shadwell

Today – a large proportion of Shadwell’s residents are from Asian backgrounds – at in Chapman Street, within the old railway arches, there are many retail businesses that cater for the community.

At the original entrance to the Shadwell Basin – leading in from the Thames. Spookily – the view of Canary Wharf is actually on the same side of the River as Shadwell – and yet it gives the appearance of being on the other side of the Thames

‘London Shoes’ on the beaches of Shadwell-London E1

With the tide out – I climbed down some old wharf steps and took a stroll along the ‘beach’

Looking west towards the ‘City’ – from the ‘beach’

Looking east toward Canary Wharf – down on Shadwell’s ‘beach’ 🙂 Again – Canary Wharf is on the same side of the River as Shadwell

Another view of the Thames from the Shadwell ‘beach’

The 1920’s iron ‘bascule’ bridge at the entrance to the Shadwell Basin from the Thames. The bridge is still used today, but it is no longer lifted

The original Fire Station at Shadwell, was London’s oldest Fire Station. This new one has been erected in its place – and was opened last year by Prince Charles

The original Fire Station at Shadwell, which was London’s oldest Fire Station.

In Shadwell’s “King Edward Memorial Park”

In Shadwell’s “King Edward Memorial Park”

St. Paul’s Church steeple – as viewed from Shadwell’s ‘King Edward Memorial Park’

At the Thames entrance to Shadwell’s King Edward’s Park, is a magnificently preserved old Victorian ‘shaft’ building that was once a foot tunnel entrance to the Rotherhithe Tunnel

The ornate decorative iron displays covering the windows of the old tunnel ‘shaft’ – which have the old ‘LCC (London County Council) emblem on them

The ‘Hungerford Arms’ pub in Commercial Street – just north of Shadwell – this pub building dates back to the late 1800’s

Neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ one in the Hungerford Arms – Commercial Street

“Pellicci’s” – Bethnal Green-E2 – one of London’s oldest classic cafe’s

Posted on October 19, 2018 by Geoff Clements Posted in Cafes .

One of the e-mails received into the London Shoes in-box this week, was from a lady in New Zealand, who said how much she enjoyed following the website, especially reading about the London she emigrated from many years ago.

She enquired as to whether I had considered ‘blogging’ some of the old east end café’s that might still be around – as she has wonderful childhood memories , of visiting her grandparents in Bethnal Green, and regularly being taken by them to Pellicci’s in the Bethnal Green Road, for a good old ‘fry-up’.

So – with that in mind, and on this ‘Shoes’ followers suggestion – I headed off this week to Bethnal Green-E2 – an area I know well from my ‘drinking’ nights out in my teens back in the 1970’s, and later in the 1990’s when I worked just down the road at Barclays in Mare St-Hackney.
Anyway – the subject matter of this week’s publication onto the London Shoes website is all about the legendary Pellicci’s Café in the Bethnal Green Road.

The history of this iconic café goes back a long way, and it is very much a ‘family affair’, and a fascinating story.

In 1900, an Italian from Tuscany named Priamo Pellicci started working at a little café in Bethnal Green – and when the owner decided to sell the business, Mr Pellicci, with a little financial assistance from his family, decided to buy it – and ran it successfully with his wife Elide, whilst also raising their 7 children – all living above the café.

When Mr Priamo Pellicci passed away in 1931, his wife Elide took over the reins and the café continued to thrive and throughout the subsequent decades the business continued to be run by their children – as it still is to this very day.

Pellicci’s became (and still is) a very popular haunt for, not only market stall holders and cabbies, but all the local community, and even today, it is one of the social hubs of the area, where customers are treated like family.

Throughout the 50’s & 60’s it was regularly frequented by the notorious Kray twins, and legend has it that they would often have a ‘quiet word’ in the ear of anyone heard swearing in front of Mrs Pellicci.

When my wife Angela first started work back in 1973, at Barclays Bank in the Bethnal Green – she recalls that the branch Messenger (back in the days when most branches had messengers), used to cross the busy Bethnal Green Road to Pellicci’s, to collect the Branch Managers dinner, which was then placed on a silver salver, and with a silver lid on top, he then used to negotiate crossing the busy road, back to the branch. To this day, my wife says that the Pellicci toasted cheese sarnies are the best ever!!

Apart from its regulars, Pellicci’s has also been a popular stopping-off place for local east-end celebs throughout the decades – and today, because it has been around for so long, it is now also popular with tourists and sightseers.

This small café seats 33 inside, and there are now also a few seats outside – and the place is always extremely busy.

Many of the original fixtures and fittings are still in place such as old formica tables – an old style push-down till – wall panels of ornate wooden marquetry – a couple of small stained glass windows – old decorative ceramic tiling – plus paintings and photos of the departed Pellicci ancestry – and as a result, this wonderful establishment is now, quite rightly, designated a Grade II listed building.

So – with all the social changes there have been since the Pellicci’s first started the cafe here, way back in in 1900 – and in a world where almost every high street in every town is dominated by faceless corporate coffee conglomerates such as Starbucks, Costa & Nero etc – I personally find it comforting to know that there are still places like Pellicci’s café around, that have a bit of history and a vibe about them – and long may they continue to serve their communities.

No ‘cheeky’ beer for me this week, but instead I had a bacon roll washed down with a ‘tantalising’ tea – at Pellicci’s of course.