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*The “Boundary Estate” – London E1 – Britain’s first ever, and once the World’s largest – Council Estate,

Posted on September 22, 2021 by Geoff Clements Posted in Historic Buildings, Streets .

Last week saw my London Shoes venture out, not too far from home, to visit a location that holds a prominent place in London’s ‘social’ history – a place that is still very much in situ and in use in today’s world, and still as relevant as it was back-in-the-day.

This week’s London Shoes blog is slightly different than the norm, as the subject matter is all about the history of the “Boundary Estate”.

The ‘Boundary Estate’ was built in 1890 and is the world’s oldest and Council Estate, and architecturally, one of the most unique.

It sits within 2 postcodes E1 & E2, and is just a few minutes’ walk from London’s mainline Liverpool Street Station.

For those that may know this particular area of east London – if you exit Liverpool Street onto Bishopsgate, then turn left and walk up to the junction of the Bethnal Green Road, turn right and then do a left up Club Row – you will find yourself bang in the middle of this socially historic London landmark – the was Britain’s very first ever Council Estate.

The ‘Boundary Estate’ arose from the ashes of “The Old Nichol” – one of 19th century London’s worst slums areas (or Rookery’s – as they were commonly referred to in the 1800’s

‘The Old Nichol’ didn’t start as a slum area – when houses were first constructed there in the late 1600’s, it was quite a posh place, with many respectable trades people renting its houses. However – as the decades and century’s progressed, more and more houses were added to the area, all crammed together right on top of each other.

By 1827 the ‘Old Nichol’ area of housing covered 5 acres and consisted of 237 houses – and it started to gain a bad reputation.

All the roads surrounding these houses were unmade – there was no drainage or sewers. The only walkways between the houses were narrow alleyways. The air throughout the area stank as smells from livestock kept in back yards, plus noxious smells from some of the trades operating in the area, such as tanning / boiling tripe / slaughterhouses etc – all added to the degeneration of the location.

In 1860, social ‘reform’ started to be seen more of a political issues, and a survey of the ‘Old Nichol’ area was commissioned – and this survey documented that there were now 1400 houses situated in the area, with on average of 8 people per family unit. – and statistically,  1 child in 4 living in the area, died before it reached its 1st birthday.

By 1886 the death rate in the Old Nichol ‘Rookery’ was higher than anywhere else in London.

By this time, all of the decent trades and the ‘decent’ tenants had long left the area – and the houses were now occupied by the lesser privileged of society – and the place was totally lawless, and rife with crime and prostitution. It was classed as a no-go area, that even the local police steered clear of.

With ‘social reform’ now being seen as a massive ‘vote’ earner – notorious slum places like the Old Nichol ‘Rookery’ were often front page news.

A popular novel published at that time, entitled “The Child of Jago” – a fictional account of the life of a child growing up in the Old Nichol – was another massive influence on the urgent need for ‘change’ in the area.

The passing of the ‘Housing of the Working Classes Act’ of 1890 – raised awareness of places such as the Old Nichol even more.

In 1890 the very first ‘London County Council’ was formed, and the council’s first task on its massive ‘reform’ agenda, was to completely demolish the ‘Old Nichol’ slum, and create a purpose built ‘housing estate’.

The entire Old Nichol slum area was ‘raised to the ground’ displacing some 5,700 tenants – and on its site, within tree lined streets – 20 blocks of 5 storey flats, named as the “Boundary Estate”  – two schools (one still in operation), workshops and commercial shops, were all built around a central raised ‘circus’, that was built from  soil and rubble from the demolition – this was known as ‘Arnold Circus’, and named after an LCC councilor.

Each property of the new ‘Boundary Estate’ consisted (and still consists) of multi-brick tenements, which bear the names of towns and villages situated along the non-tidal ‘reaches’ of the River Thames – eg Marlow House – Henley House – Chertsey House – Cookham House plus many more.

All of the estate tenements were designed and built to an unusual structural design, with large curves, arches and other embellishments – and each tenement building spiraled out in a radial plan, from the central Arnold Circus mound.

The new tenement properties consisted of 2/3 bedroom flats that were designed to house 5,500 tenants.

A bespoke ‘estate laundry’ was built, plus 18 retail shops and 77 workshops.

The estate also had its own Schools – ‘Rochelle School’ b. 1879 & ‘Virginia School’ b. 1887. Virginia School is still in situ as a school today.

Interestingly though – apparently only 11 of the families displaced from the Old Nichol slum, actually became re-housed in the new Boundary Estate.

The ‘Boundary Estate’ was formally opened by the Prince of Wales in 1900 – and to be fair, very little about the Estate has changed much throughout the past century.

Today – the Boundary Estate consists of 500 flats/apartments.

Two thirds of the estate remains under the jurisdiction of the London Borough of Tower Hamlets – and some of the estate lies within the control of the London Borough of Hackney.  

One-third of the properties are privately owned luxury flats – much in demand in the now fashionable ‘Shoreditch’ district (now frequented by the all beards – no socks & loafers-brigade) 

A very strong unionised residents group exists today, that is fully focused on the Boundary Estate retaining its identity and not being fobbed off to housing developers.

Nearby  popular attractions like Brick Lane and Columbia Road Flower Market – help keep the Boundary Estate a popular place ‘to be & be seen’ at.

So – that’s the history of the ‘Boundary Estate’ – a wonderful bit of London social history – and a place that is still very much important today as it was when constructed over 130 years ago.

Hope you enjoyed this piece and that the accompanying photos bring its story to life a bit.

___________________________________________________

Summarised below are all of the photos taken to support the ‘Boundary Estate’ blog

Shoreditch Overground Station – the nearest station to the Boundary Estate

 

Shoreditch High Street – with the Bethnal Green Road turning to the left – that leads to the historic Boundary Estate

 

An old map illustration that highlights the streets that made up the notorious ‘Old Nichol’ slum district – said to be London’s worst slum area throughout the 1800’s. The houses in the streets to the north that are highlighted in blue – were totally demolished to make way for the unique ‘Boundary Estate’ – London’s very first Council Estate and at the time, the world’s largest Council Estate

 

Early photographic evidence of the slum dwellings in the ‘Old Nichol’ streets

 

References to the districts Old Nichol ‘Rookery’ heritage, still exist throughout the Boundary Estate.

 

Another old photo of the slum dwellings within what was the ‘Old Nichol’ district – prior to its demolition – replaced by the historic Boundary Estate, that was formally opened in 1900.

 

Me – down in the once iconic ‘Boundary Estate’

 

A very old photo depicting the demolition of the Old Nichol slums – prior to the construction of the ‘Boundary Estate’- at the time, the world’s largest Council Estate.

 

‘Arnold Circus’ – in the middle of the Boundary Estate – all the tenement blocks radiate out from this central point

 

Looking up from the Boundary Estate streets – to the bandstand in the centre of Arnold Circus

 

Looking down from the Arnold Circus mound – onto the tenement blocks of the historic ‘Boundary Estate’

 

Another view looking down from the Arnold Circus mound – onto the tenement blocks of the historic ‘Boundary Estate’

 

Views from inside the 1890 built Boundary Estate

 

Me – on the steps of Arnold Circus – the fulcrum of the Boundary Estate

 

The bandstand in the centre of the Arnold Circus mound – is quite a popular spot for filming

 

A close-up of the bandstand at the top of the Arnold Circus mound.

 

Views from inside the 1890 built Boundary Estate

 

Views from inside the 1890 built Boundary Estate

 

Me – alongside one of the Boundary Estate’s unique tenement blocks.

 

The Boundary Estate even had its own Schools – ‘Rochelle School’ b. 1879 & ‘Virginia School’ b. 1887. Virginia School is still in situ as a school today.

 

The Boundary Estate’s ‘Virginia School’ b. 1887. Virginia School is still in situ and active as a school today.

 

 

 

The Boundary Estate even had its own schools – This is the old ‘Rochelle School’ building b. 1879

 

Views from inside the 1890 built Boundary Estate

 

Me – alongside one of the Boundary Estate’s unique tenement blocks.

 

Scenes from within the Boundary Estate

 

A 1902 photo of ‘Arnold Circus’ bang in the middle of the Boundary Estate – with the newly constructed estate tenement blocks spreading out from its folcrum.

 

Another view looking down from the Arnold Circus mound – onto the tenement blocks of the historic ‘Boundary Estate’

 

Me – up at the bandstand, situated at the top of and in the centre of ‘Arnold Circus’ – from which the Boundary Estate buildings radiate out from.

 

Each property of the new ‘Boundary Estate’ consisted (and still consists) of multi-brick tenements, which bear the names of towns and villages situated along the non-tidal ‘reaches’ of the River Thames – eg Marlow House – Henley House – Chertsey House – Cookham House plus many more. This is a photo of ‘Henley House’.

 

Each property of the new ‘Boundary Estate’ consisted (and still consists) of multi-brick tenements, which bear the names of towns and villages situated along the non-tidal ‘reaches’ of the River Thames – eg Marlow House – Henley House – Chertsey House – Cookham House plus many more. This is a photo of ‘Marlow House’.

 

References to the ‘Old Nichol’ slum area, still exist throughout the Boundary Estate today!!

 

The floral & shrub displays throughout the Boundary Estate buildings – are all presented in old bath tubs

 

The floral & shrub displays throughout the Boundary Estate buildings – are all presented in old bath tubs

 

When opened in 1900, the Boundary Estate was equipped with a bespoke ‘estate laundry’ was built, plus 18 retail shops and 77 workshops.

 

The bespoke ‘estate laundry’ that was built when the Boundary Estate opened in 1890 – and still in situ today – doubling up as the Estate’s cultural centre.

 

One of the retail outlets operating within the Boundary Estate’s surviving commercial premises – which clearly reflect the clientele of the now fashionable & trendy Shoreditch – a far cry from therdays when it was London’s largest slum.

 

A very strong unionised residents group exists today, that is fully focused on preserving the legacy of the Boundary Estate – retaining its identity and not being fobbed off to housing developers.

 

 

 

Me – at the bottom of ‘Arnold Circus’ – situated in the middle of the Boundary Estate – all the tenement blocks radiate out from this central point

 

Me – on the train back home to Romford – having spent an interesting couple of hours tracing the history of the ‘Boundary Estate’ – which, when formally opened in 1900, was Britain’s first & the world’s largest Council Estate

 

 

 

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15 Comments
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15 Responses

  1. Bev Beak says
    September 22, 2021 at 9:42 pm

    Very interesting Geoff. I didn’t know about this place but do recognise it from TV programmes. Let’s hope it manages to survive in its current form. Thanks for showing it to us.

    Reply
    • Geoff Clements says
      September 23, 2021 at 3:02 pm

      Glad you enjoyed it and found it interesting Bev – I knew this estate existed, but it the first time I’ve ever visited the place – I’m glad I did.
      Cheers…Geoff

      Reply
  2. Peter Lemon says
    September 24, 2021 at 9:01 am

    Another one that I will add to my collection of your blogs. Excellent thank you.

    Reply
    • Geoff Clements says
      September 25, 2021 at 12:18 pm

      Thank you for your kind comments Peter – cheers…Geoff

      Reply
  3. Jacqueline says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:19 pm

    Thank you. A very interesting piece of London history.

    Reply
  4. Tim says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:20 pm

    Very interesting stuff Geoff. I enjoy the old history of these places

    Reply
  5. Ian says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:20 pm

    Not been on Facebook for a while but you were my first point of call when I came back. Thank you for still pounding the pavement with those London shoes.

    Reply
  6. Vicky says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:20 pm

    what a brilliant interesting read. thank you

    Reply
  7. Alison says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:21 pm

    A very well illustrated and interesting post about this early council estate. I thought I had seen Manchester Corporation flats in Ancoats with a date stone of 1877, so I will have to check this out

    Reply
  8. Dave says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:21 pm

    Great article mate enjoyed reading it from my sun bed in Tenerife

    Reply
  9. Kenneth says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:21 pm

    Fascinating – as always!

    Reply
  10. Lynda says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:21 pm

    Lovely history lesson, thanks

    Reply
  11. Alan says
    September 25, 2021 at 12:22 pm

    Very interesting read thanks

    Reply
  12. Jay says
    May 30, 2023 at 5:59 pm

    I used to live at 30 Cookham House until the age of 8 and went to Virginia School in the early 80s. It is still ‘home’ to me.
    I am now 46 and took my other half there to see it last weekend.
    Until I read your post I never knew or appreciated the history of it. Wish I still lived there.

    Reply
    • Geoff Clements says
      May 31, 2023 at 7:42 am

      Just wanted to thank you for taking the time & trouble to contact my London Shoes website – and also a big thank you for sharing your personal connections to the ‘Boundary Estate’ – I know that future readers of this particular London Shoes blog, will view your comments with interest.

      Cheers
      GEOFF (www.londonshoes.blog)

      Reply

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