Last week, ‘London Shoes’ didn’t have to venture too far from home, only a 20min train journey to the east-end for the purpose of exploring a specific area, where literally every street appears to have some sort of history behind it and its own fascinating story to tell.
So – the latest article to be published onto the London Shoes website, Twitter feed and Facebook page goes under the title of “Bow-London E3 and its amazing history & landmarks”.
For this trip out I was delighted to be accompanied again by my old work colleague ‘Les’, who I worked with way back in the late 1980’s, at Barclays Bank –Whitechapel, just a couple of minutes’ walk down the road from Bow. Les himself actually worked at the Barclays branch in Bow, during the early 1980’s, and so he was very keen to join me on this particular jaunt, and revisit some of his old haunts.
Centuries ago, Bow (like a lot of London) was a rural area, sitting just outside the Roman settlement of Londinuim, to the west.
Historic records dating back to the 12th Century show that the area was then known as ‘Stratford-atte-Bow’, which had built up around a causeway built by the Romans to aid the crossing of the River Lea.
It was an area that the Roman roads used to pass through on route to their other fortresses out-in-the-sticks in places such as Colchester in Essex.
Legend has it that in 1100, Queen Matilda wife of King Henry 1st, had a little accident which resulted in her falling into the River Lea – and as a result she ordered that a 3 arched bridge be built at ‘Stratford-atte-Bow’ to prevent such a disastrous thing happening again.
By the 1700’s, because of all its open fields and transport routes, Bow had become the centre of the animal slaughter and butchery businesses that serviced the busy London markets just down the road.
Throughout the centuries Bow witnessed a rapid demise of its countryside because of the increase in manufacturing industries, residential housing, commercial businesses – all servicing London, and all benefiting from Bow’s varied communication and transport networks (i.e. road, river & canal)
Bow also became one of London’s poorest districts – in terms of overcrowded housing and social depravity and awful working conditions – however today, like a lot of the old inner-city areas, Bow has seen a resurgence of development over the past few decades, and is today a desirable, though very expensive – place to live.
It’s one of those areas where every street seems to have some sort of history about it – some good, but other bits not so good – but a load of its historic landmarks are still in situ today, and my quest for the day was to track down some of the more important ones.
St. Mary’s Church<
St. Mary’s is the main church in Bow, and is uniquely situated on an island right in the middle of the extremely busy Bow Road.There has been a place of worship on the site for over 700 years, and the present church building dates way back to 1490.
Throughout its life, St Mary’s has certainly seen a bit of action – as it was once an execution site for topping-off Catholics – it was once a safe haven for Roundhead soldiers being persecuted by Royalists during the English Civil War.
Today though, it is probably best known for the statue of ex-Prime Minister ‘William Gladstone’ that stands directly outside in front of the church entrance.
This William Gladstone statue has its own notoriety because at its unveiling back in 1882 the outstretched hand of Gladstone was covered in the blood of a group of Match Girls from the nearby Bryant & May Match Factory in Fairfield Road – who cut themselves and used their own blood to deface the statue, in protest of their awful working conditions and the fact that the statue had been paid for by their blood, as William Bryant had commissioned the building of the statue, and had docked the ‘girls’ wages to help pay for it.
Even to this very day, unknown sympathisers cover Gladstone’s hand in red paint to commemorate this event and the terrible plight of the Match Girls.
>Three Mills<
The ‘Three Mills’ site on the River Lea is one of Bow’s many historic landmarks that is still in use today – but for completely different purposes than what it was built for.
It was originally an area of the River Lea where defense fortresses were built to prevent the Danes and then the French, from getting too far up the river and invading London.
Because the River Lea is tidal, it was the ideal place for flour mills to be built, and originally there were 4 mills situated there, grinding down grain for the baking of bread to feed London’s ever increasing population.
In Elizabethan times the mills at Three Mills were used to grind down gunpowder – and later on it was the site of a large distillery.
Today, Three Mills houses an education centre, a recording studio – and is a very popular tourist attraction.
Bow Bus Garage<
One of London’s largest historic bus garages is situated in Bow’s Fairfield Road.
This wonderful Grade II listed building first opened as a ‘Tram’ depot back in 1908, and then converted to a ‘Trolley Bus’ depot in 1939 – and then it was the main depot that garaged London’s iconic ‘Routemaster’ buses, right up until 2004 – and it is still operative today to garage the majority of TfL’s east London’s bus fleets.
>Bow Locks<
No – I’m not using profane language here.
Bow’s historic and still fully operative old Locks are situated along the Bow stretch of the River Lea – and link the tidal ‘Bow Creek’ with the River Lea and the ‘Limehouse-Cut’ and also Bow’s canal networks.
Historic records show that there has been tidal control at this particular site as far back as the 1300’s.
The Bow Locks have obviously been rebuilt several times throughout the centuries to accommodate Bow’s manufacturing industries and trade, and also to prevent local flooding – but today they are still fully operative and are also a big tourist attraction.
>The Bryant & May Match Factory<
This historic factory site in Bow’s Fairfield Road, is one of London’s most famous industrial landmarks.
In 1843 a William Bryant and Francis May went into business selling matches.
The purchased an old rope and candle factory in Fairfield Road and turned it into the iconic Bryant & May Match Factory.
By 1860 the factory had a workforce of around 5,000 that were knocking out 300 million matches per day – making it one of London’s largest and most successful factory sites.
However, things didn’t always go smoothly for the owners, as in 1888 they became embroiled in the historic ‘Match Girls Strike’ – an event that paved the way in which industrial relations were subsequently conducted.
Today – this 7 acre site has been converted into luxury apartments and flats, all with a gated community – which is now known as ‘The Bow Quarter’.
>The Chisenhale Gallery<
This art gallery in Bow’s Chisenhale Road was once a massive veneer factory that manufactured all the propellers for ‘Spitfire’ planes throughout WW2.
Roman Road – Market<
Named because it was originally built by the Romans as one of their main routes out of Londinium, to their fortress up in Colchester-Essex – and as a result the area surrounding it was a hive of industry, manufacturing and residential housing.
Throughout the past couple of centuries, Londoner’s particularly EastEnders, it is the site of what was one of London’s oldest, largest and most popular Street Markets.
Known by east Londoner’s as ‘The Roman’ where a visit there would be announced as ‘Im gahn dahn the Roman’ (eg ‘Im going down to the Roman Road market!!)
In 1986 two commemorative arches were erected at each end of this famous road, that are partly inscribed in Latin to acknowledge the Roman influence and heritage of the street.
>Pelican Cottage<
Close by to Roman Road is a small quaint little cottage, that is totally out of character with all the other modern buildings surrounding it.
Built way back in the early 1800’s this beautiful little house is still in use today and has, quite rightly, been given Grade II listed status.
>Three Colts Bridge<
The Three Colts Bridge dates back to 1830 when it was constructed as a crossing the newly constructed ‘Hertford Union Canal’ that links up with the Regents Canal and the Grand Union Canal.
>Grove Hall Park<
This very small piece of public parkland is all that remains of what once was the Bow countryside.
In 1703 the huge mansion of Grove Hall and its large estate, occupied this specific area.
The estate used to be the site of the infamous annual ‘Green Goose Fair’ – a local event that also attracted people from all over London, and in 1823 had to be stopped and banned – because of the continuous drunken, bawdy and rowdy behavior by the revelers.
The beautiful trees that run through the centre of the parkland are hundreds of years old and are today protected by a preservation order.
>The Docklands Mosaic<
Tucked away underneath the canopy of an entrance door to what was the old Poplar Town Hall, is a unique, but little known and rarely noticed mosaic. Designed and built in 1938 the mosaic beautifully depicts the River Thames and the Docklands connections to Bow.
>Kingsley Hall<
Kingsley Hall is today a local arts & crafts centre and meeting hall.
It was built back in 1928 and is famous for being the place where Mahatma Gandhi once lived, and this is commemorated by the fact that it is the HQ of the Gandhi Foundation.
>Flying Bomb-Blue Plaque<
In 1944 the Bow Railway Bridge took a direct hit from the very first V1 Flying Bomb launched by the Germans on London.
The blue plaque next to today’s bridge commemorates the fact that 6 people were killed, 30 seriously injured and over 200 Bow residents made homeless as a result of this terrible event.
>Sylvia Pankhurst<
References to the influence that legendary women’s rights campaigner has had on Bow.
Sylvia was the daughter of the UK’s main Suffragette campaigner Emeline Pankhurst – however, Sylvia also campaigned the plight of women surviving in London slums – of which Bow was one of the largest and worst.
Sylvia Pankhurst was a demonstrative force in the Bow area – holding regular women only meetings in some of its pubs – setting up a women only factory that manufactured toys, and had the iconic Selfridges as one of its main customers.
She also set-up nurseries for working mothers, so that their children could be looked after whilst they were out at work trying to earn a living and better their lives and conditions.
>Bow’s historic Pubs<
As with most inner city areas Bow has been the location of a number of historic and iconic old pubs – and fortunately some of Bow’s are still open-for-business today – and so London Shoes went to seek some of them out.
The Lord Morpeth
This is a pub with a wealth of history behind it.
It was originally opened as a pub in 1848, and was the regular drinking-hole and meeting place for the Sylvia Pankhurst led suffragette and women’s rights movement. Pankhurst “East London Federation of Suffragettes” headquarters was once situated right next door to the pub – making it an ideal spot for Federation meetings.
Today a magnificent mural covers the entire side of the pub building –that depicts Sylvia Pankhurst and the work and responsibility that she undertook throughout Bow, to better the lives and conditions of its women residents.
The Bow Bells
This pub has been serving pints here in the Bow Road since 1860. One of its claims to fame is that the ladies toilets down in its basement are said to be haunted – and as a result it is one of the locations visited on a ‘Haunted Pubs of London’ walking tour.
The Coburn
This old boozer that sits nicely in the middle of a residential street was built in 1833 and today is now a swanky and very popular gastro-pub.
The Morgan Arms
The Morgan Arms was built in 1892 in an area that was once locally known as ‘cut-throat-alley’. Today it is one of those trendy hipster pubs.
The Lord Tredegar
Is another old pub dating back to 1850, and is named after a famous military man who had connections to the Bow area. Bow’s Tredegar Square and Tredegar Street are also named after Lord Tredegar.
The Pearly King
Sadly this old 1895 built pub has been closed down for some time now, but the building still remains. The reason we sought out this one during this particular trek out is because it was once the much loved watering-hole of my accomplice Les, when he worked nearby at the Bow branch of Barclays back in the early 1980’s.
The Eleanor Arms
Another quality old Bow boozer, and probably my personal favourite of the ones visited during this blog.
Like the Lord Morpeth in the same street this 1869 built pub also has close links to Sylvia Pankhurst and her ‘East London Federation of Suffragette’ movement, as they used to use the pub to hold their meetings.
The Eleanor Arms was also the pub that me & Les chose to sink a couple of ‘cheeky’ beers in its lovely beer-garden, following a very long day traipsing the magnificent streets of Bow.
So – that is ‘Bow’ for ya – a place full of history where every almost every street has an interesting story to tell – Hope you enjoyed reading this article and its accompanying photos.
______
Please see below the more detailed photos of the ‘Bow’ blog
A map of Bow from a few centuries back, from a time when it was just a simple rural area just outside the City
St. Mary’s is the main church in Bow, and is uniquely situated on an island right in the middle of the extremely busy Bow Road. There has been a place of worship on the site for over 700 years, and the present church building dates way back to 1490
Me – outside the historic St. Mary’s Church in Bow. The DLR Station ‘Bow Church’ is named after this particular church.
St. Mary’s Church – Bow
The statue of William Gladstone – directly outside the entrance to St. Mary’s Church in Bow
The outstretched hand of the William Gladstone statue – where you can clearly see the discolouration caused by the red paint that is periodically splattered on to it by unknowns – in support of the Bryant & May Match Girls.
Three Mills – Bow
Three Mills – Bow
Three Mills – Bow
Three Mills – Bow
Three Mills – Bow
My old work mate Les – my accomplice for the day – across the road from what was once Barclays Bank-Bow branch, where he worked during the early 1980’s
Outside the historic and now Grade II Listed ‘Bow Bus Garage’
A 1932 photo of a group trolley bus workers outside the Bow Bus Garage in Fairfield Road-Bow
Views from the Bow Locks – where you can just about see my old work place ‘Canary Wharf’ in the distance
The Bow Locks
Me & Les on the bridge over the Bow Locks
The caption for this photo should read “A load of old Bow Locks”
The old Bryant & May Match Factory site in Fairfield Road-Bow. By 1860 the factory had a workforce of around 5,000 that were knocking out 300 million matches per day – making it one of London’s largest and most successful factory sites
inside the grounds of the old Bryant & May Match Factory – Fairfield Road-Bow – now converted into luxury apartments
Me & Les – inside the grounds of the old Bryant & May Match Factory – Fairfield Road-Bow – now converted into luxury apartments
inside the grounds of the old Bryant & May Match Factory – Fairfield Road-Bow – now converted into luxury apartments
This art gallery in Bow’s Chisenhale Road was once a massive veneer factory that manufactured all the propellers for ‘Spitfire’ planes throughout WW2
In 1986 two commemorative arches were erected at each end of Bow’s famous Roman Road,
The Roman Road arches are partly inscribed in Latin to acknowledge the Roman influence and heritage of the street
“I’m just gahn dahn the Roman” – (I hear the ladies say :-))
Close by to Roman Road is a small quaint little cottage, that is totally out of character with all the other modern buildings surrounding it. Built way back in the early 1800’s this beautiful little house is still in use today and has, quite rightly, been given Grade II listed status.
An old photo from the early 1960 of a derelict ‘Pelican Cottage’ – Bow
A side view of the magnificent little ‘Pelican Cottage’ – Bow
The Three Colts Bridge dates back to 1830 when it was constructed as a crossing for the newly constructed ‘Hertford Union Canal’ that links up with the Regents Canal and the Grand Union Canal
View of the ‘Hertford Union Canal’ from ‘Three Colts Bridge’
Me & Les on ‘Three Colts Bridge’ – Bow
Bow’s – ‘Grove Hall Park’
The beautiful trees that run through the centre of the ‘Grove Hall Park’ are hundreds of years old and are today protected by a preservation order
Me – with some of the ‘listed’ trees inside ‘Grove Hall Park’ – Bow
The canopy of the entrance door to what was the old Poplar Town Hall – where underneath is a unique, but little known and rarely noticed mosaic. Designed and built in 1938 the mosaic beautifully depicts the River Thames and the Docklands connections to Bow.
The little known and rarely noticed mosaic under bthe canopy of the entrance to the old Poplar Town Hall – It was designed and constructed in 1938 and the mosaic beautifully depicts the River Thames and the Docklands connections to Bow.
Bow’s ‘Kingsley Hall’ was built back in 1928 and is famous for being the place where Mahatma Gandhi once lived
The blue plaque displayed on the exterior wall of Kingsley Hall – commemorates the fact that Mahatma Gandhi once lived there
The top floor of the old Kingsley Hall building is now the HQ of the Gandhi Foundation.
The residential houses of Bow’s Tredegar Square
Tredegar Square – Bow
An magnificent old Victorian pillar-box located near to Tredegar Square – Bow
Me – having a ‘break’ in Kitcat Terrace – Bow
In 1944 the Bow Railway Bridge took a direct hit from the very first V1 Flying Bomb launched by the Germans on London. The blue plaque next to today’s bridge commemorates the fact that 6 people were killed, 30 seriously injured and over 200 Bow residents made homeless as a result of this terrible event.
The blue plaque next to Bow Railway bridge commemorates the fact that 6 people were killed, 30 seriously injured and over 200 Bow residents made homeless as a result of this terrible event.
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
A famous ex resident of Bow
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
A street scene in Bow – looking at the Orbital construction that is situated in nearby Stratford’s Olympic Park, right outside West Ham United’s London Stadium ground
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
Street scenes in Bow – where a large number of the old Georgian & Victorian residential houses/homes, are now protected by being granted a ‘Listed’ status.
An old photo of what was once ‘The Pearly King’ pub. Sadly this old 1895 built pub has been closed down for some time now, but the building still remains. The reason we sought this one out during this particular trek out is because it was once the much loved watering-hole of my accomplice Les, when he worked nearby at the Bow branch of Barclays back in the early 1980’s
My accomplice ‘Les’ outside what was once ‘The Pearly King’ pub – his old watering-hole when he worked at the Barclays branch in Bow during the early 1980’s
The ‘Lord Morpeth’ in Bow was originally opened as a pub in 1848, and was the regular drinking-hole and meeting place for the Sylvia Pankhurst led suffragette and women’s rights movement. Pankhurst “East London Federation of Suffragettes” headquarters was once situated right next door to the pub – making it an ideal spot for Federation meetings.
The magnificent mural covering the entire side of the Lord Morpeth pub building –the mora depicts Sylvia Pankhurst and the work that she undertook throughout Bow, to better the lives and conditions of its women residents
Sylvia Pankhurst rabbiting away in my ear-ole – outside the Lord Morpeth pub in Bow
A close up of The Lord Morpeth mural
A close up of The Lord Morpeth mural
Me & old Sylvia Pankhurst & the Lord Morpeth mural
The ‘Bow Bells’ pub has been serving pints here in the Bow Road since 1860. One of its claims to fame is that the ladies toilets down in its basement are said to be haunted – and as a result it is one of the locations visited on a ‘Haunted Pubs of London’ walking tour.
‘The Coburn’ pub – tucked away in a residential street in Bow
The Morgan Arms pub – built in 1892 in an area that was once locally known as ‘cut-throat-alley’. Today it is one of those trendy hipster pubs
The ‘Lord Tredegar’ is another old pub dating back to 1850, and is named after a famous military man who had connections to the Bow area. Bow’s Tredegar Square and Tredegar Street are also named after Lord Tredegar
The Eleanor Arms – another quality old Bow boozer, and probably my personal favourite of the ones visited during this blog. This 1869 built pub also has close links to Sylvia Pankhurst and her ‘East London Federation of Suffragette’ movement, as it is believed that they used to use the pub to hold their meetings
Inside the Eleanor Arms pub – Bow
Inside the Eleanor Arms pub – Bow
In the beer garden of the Eleanor Arms pub – Bow
Me & Les – my accomplice for the day – neckin’ down a couple of ‘cheeky’ ones in the Eleanor Arms – Bow
Another ‘cheeky’ one slips down in the Eleanor Arms – Bow
Looks like it’s cleaned up a lot since I worked there and most likely walked straight past a lot of it without looking properly, except the pubs that is. Looks like it’s worth a revisit, another great blog Geoff
Amazing what we don’t know- lots gone on in Bow- every day is a school day as they say
Found this really interesting. I often wonder what my Grandparents would have made of the changes of today. It looks a lovely area now
Found this extremely interesting, used to live next door to Bow Bus garage. Went back this year for the first time in 50 years to Fairfield Road, does not look any different. Fairfield Stores is still there (it was my dads shop up to 1973). Brought back many memories, especially the park.
memories !!
when I was at bow boys school we used to use your dads shop to buy long cigarettes they where about 6 to 9 ” long !!!! them where the days in the park
Brian
I was born in Bow,we lived at Alton house,Bromley by Bow,my maternal grandparents lived in Priory house,across the road from the “SEVEN STARS” pub,the pub you know as the pearly king?,next to my old school OLD PALACE PRIMARY.We moved across the courtyard to Bradley house,overlooking Bow bridge, in 1950/51.the flats are still there today.We all,including my grandparents moved to Romford in 1954,I have been back since,as I went to Raines Foundation grammar school. in Stepney,travelling from Romford every day,and I worked in Whitechapel up until 1967,and I have only been back once since then,about 10 years ago,to say the area has changed,is an understatement,you cant and should not go back, its such a disapointment,our old “east end” culture has gone forever,it was a moment in time,never to be replaced,sadly!
I lived off Fairfield Road, Wrexham Rd, next to the bus garage no62, right opposite Bryant&May.
I used to love watching the steam trains go by from where we lived.
We had to move away from no62 when the Germans were dropping their doodle bugs on Bow in the late 40`s, but moved back again as soon as the war ended.
My grandparents lived at 52.
I went back for a look at the old place in 2008 but not seen it since.
The area I lived at had not changed much, except new houses are now opposite where I used to live, where once there was the Bryant&May bowling green and hard tennis courts.
Prior to that we had a debris which housed a couple of air raid shelters we used during air raids before we moved away because of them.
Five houses were demolished in Wrexham Road during this time – from nos.42 to 50. My Nans house was no52.How lucky was that!!!
Those houses were rebuilt during the 50`s to match the previous design, so they didn`t look any different but for the bricks being cleaner.
Near the Grove Hall park on the corner of Ridgedale Street and Jebb Street stood our local sweet and cigarette shop we used often called Dowdings.
I also remember the grocers that was opposite the bus garage – where I was usually served by a nice lady known to us as Mrs Griffiths.
I could go on but wont bore you with any more, and thanks for an interesting summary of Bow which included somethings I didn`t know.
Hello Robert,
Firstly – I just wanted to thank you for taking the time & trouble to contact me via my London Shoes website – I really do appreciate it, and its feedback such as yours that makes my little London Shoes ‘hobby’ all wort while.
Secondly, I would like to thank you for ‘sharing’ your amazing personal memories and recollections of the Bow area, you have really covered-off some extremely interesting ‘facts’ , which I am sure other readers of my article on Bow, will really enjoy reading, and its quite possible that others with ‘shared memories’ such as yours, will also post their comments/feedback on to this piece – so once again, thank you for your contribution.
I have published roughly 200 ‘blogs’ on my London Shoes website – quite a lot of which are based on topics/themes from London’s East End – which I am sure you would find interesting and perhaps entertaining – so please feel free to check out the main-menu of the London Shoes website, and call-up the ‘Archives’ section, where you will find a list of all of the blogs I have published in the 3 years that London Shoes has been up & running.
Take care Robert & stay safe
Kind regards……..GEOFF (London Shoes)