* “Grotto Passage” – Marylebone-London W1 – ‘London’s-Historic & Notorious Alley’s & Passages’ Pt8

This week’s blog article sits nicely within the London Shoes category “London’s-Historic & Notorious Alley’s & Passages” – and it’s all about a location called “GROTTO PASSAGE” – that’s just down the road from Baker Street tube station in the Marylebone district of the ‘Smoke’.

As with most of London’s mysterious alleyways and passages – from the outside, they often look totally unremarkable and insignificant – for the majority of circumstances you would simply walk past them and not even know they were there.

However – quite a lot of these little ‘hidden gems’ have a massive history and back story to them – and ‘Grotto Passage’ is certainly one such place – and so my London Shoes headed off to Marylebone to check this alley out.

‘Grotto Passage’ is a tiny narrow passageway situated in Paddington Street, a turning off of Marylebone High Street.

It first appears on a 1738 map of London when a ‘John Castles’ bought up a plot of land in what was then a predominantly ‘rural’ Marylebone (hard to believe that these days).

John Castles born in the early 1700’s was an artist by trade who, at that time, specialised in the art form of designing and decorating stuff with ‘shells’.

Most likely originating from ancient Rome or maybe Turkey, the use of shells to adorn buildings / walls and other fixtures & fittings, may sound a bit strange today – but back in the late 1600’s and 1700’s it was all the rage, especially with the wealthy and the upper classes…….shell decorated fixtures were a sort of status symbol.

John Castles saw the opportunity to make a bit of a name for himself in the ‘shell’ world – and so specialised in this art form. He was obsessed with ‘shells’ and very soon became a sought after ‘shell artist’.

He was seen as the ‘top man’ in the ‘shell’ game and was even commissioned by King George III to create a ‘shell’ Royal Coat of Arms – and Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole, to build a ‘shell grotto’ in the grounds of the Royal Hospital in Chelsea.

Now – “Shell Grotto’s” were an extremely popular ‘thing’ at that time, especially in France. They were quite simply ‘cave’ like structures or rooms or huts that were completely covered in ‘shells’.

Even as far back as 1624 it is documented that King James I had a ‘shell grotto’ built underneath Banqueting House in Whitehall – which apparently was his little hideaway and secret drinking den.

Anyway – in 1756, in an attempt to showcase his ‘unique’ talent with shells, John Castles bought up a bit more land and extended his current ‘plot’ down in Marylebone – and on it he built a massive ‘Shell Grotto’ and alongside it, opened up a cold water bathing pool, claiming that the water had therapeutic powers. He also created an outside dining area and bar on site.

Castles deliberately chose this specific plot of land as, back then, it stood directly opposite the ‘Marylebone Pleasure Gardens’ – a popular spot where London’s upper-classes used meet up – congregate – have stroll around and generally socialise. So, London’s finest naturally gravitated across the road from the Pleasure Gardens, to take a look around John Castles ‘Shell Grotto’ site. Apparently, even Royalty used to pay regular visits to Castles ‘Grotto’ – and taking full advantage of this, it is said that he increased his entry charges – making himself a tidy few shilling in the process.

John Castles, probably Britain’s top ‘Shell Artists’ – died in 1757 – and sadly, his ‘Shell Grotto’ only lasted another 2 years before that closed down and was no more.

** (I published a blog some years back now – that was all about 2 ‘Shell Huts’ that can be found in Victoria SE1 – although these were built in the early 1950’s as an art project – they are based on and influenced by the stuff that would have been on display in John Castles ‘Grotto Passage’ a couple of centuries earlier.)

During the very short period of time that Castles Shell Grotto had been in operation – the demand for land in London had gone mad – any spare plots of land were being bought up immediately and new housing was being crammed onto it – every bit of empty space/piece of land was built on.

The Shell Grotto site fell a victim to this constant demand for land and very soon the shell grotto the bathing pool and the outside restaurant and bar – all made way for much needed housing.

So many people were arriving in London and being crammed into overcrowded living accommodation – that it wasn’t long before the once fashionable Marylebone, became one of London’s biggest slum districts.

Records show that at one stage in the mid-1800’s in the old shell grotto area, there were 7 x 2 roomed houses with 47 people living in them…..and these houses weren’t connected to the sewers!!!

Again – accounts of social observations from that time, indicate that any income that may have been earned – went mostly on the purchase of Gin – these slum districts of London were depraved/deprived, and just an awful place to live.

As always in such social situations, it was children who suffered most.

However – by the 1840’s/1850’s legislative social reform started to kick-in to help ease the problems cause by slum dwelling.

Many charities were formed that focused on protecting children and providing them with care attention and an education.

“Ragged Schools” were established and slowly introduced across London’s worst slum areas.

These Victorian era Ragged Schools were charity funded and were run for destitute, under privileged children to teach them how to read and write and to learn some life and employment skills – to help them get off to some sort of decent start when they eventually left school

Records show that by 1848 there were at least ‘60’ Ragged Schools throughout London.

In 1846 the “Grotto Passage Ragged & Industrial School” was opened on the old Grotto Passage site – and the building is still in situ down Grotto Passage today – although it now comprises of commercial/corporate offices….not classrooms!!

During the following decades the ‘Grotto Passage Ragged & Industrial School’ expanded to include infant children / evening classes / needlework lessons / shoes making and wood cutting tuition – and it also operated as an orphanage.

However – by the end of the 1800’s beginning of the 1900’s – Social Housing & Welfare had kicked-in, plus a State Education system was in place that had taken over the roll that the Ragged Schools had once delivered.

The Ragged Schools had outlived their need and purpose – although some still stayed in situ and were converted into Children’s Homes.

In a way, ‘Grotto Passage’ as a site – is probably not much different today, as it was back then.

The brickwork of the old Ragged School building plus its lovely mid late 1800’s built houses (apartments) – are all clean and tidy as is its paving and cobbled street. Its now a quiet/peaceful haven, away from the hustle and bustle of the Marylebone streets just a few yards away – so different from its previous ‘life’ – and a location that I felt definitely warranted a London Shoes blog.

So – having explored ‘Grotto Passage’ and learnt about its amazing history – it was time for a little liquid refreshment – and my Shoes made there way east towards the square mile of the City, and ended up in a wonderful pub called ‘The Counting House’.

“The Counting House” pub at 50 Cornhill-EC3, was built in 1893 when it opened as Prescott’s Bank.

Part of the building’s foundations are sited on the remains of a 2,000 yr old Roman basilica.

Following several Bank mergers over the decades – it ended up being a National Westminster Bank in the 1970’s.

The pub chain company “Fuller’s” acquired the building in 1997 – and it was granted Grade II Listed status, and in 1998 – the building was opened as The Counting House pub – keeping most of its interior fixtures & fittings are the originals. Well worth a visit if you’re ever in the City.

So, that’s it – I hope you enjoyed Shoes account of its Grotto Passage visit and its unique back story – and I hope the accompanying photos help tell the tale

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See below the entire gallery of photos accompanying this blog article