When I started my London Shoes stuff, over 6yrs ago now – there were a number of locations/places/sites scattered around London that I had never visited before, and upon retirement, I now had the opportunity to do so.
One particular place was always high on my ‘to do list’ and although it’s taken me 6yrs to get around to it – a couple of weeks ago my London Shoes finally ventured off to the place in question……
“Eel Pie Island” – Twickenham
Eel Pie Island is an 8.9 acre island just off the northern banks of the River Thames at Twickenham – way down in deepest southwest London.
It used to be called ‘Twickenham Ait’ (Ait being an old English word for a small river island)
There is evidence that the island has been there for centuries, as some ‘Stone Age’ deer antler bones and hand made implements have been found on its shores.
Local records show that in the mid 1700’s there was an Inn situated on the Island.
There are number of weird and bonkers theories as to how Eel Pie Island got its name – but it’s most probably due to the fact that in the early 1800’s ‘eel pies’ were once served up from a Tavern on the island.
Throughout the entire 1800’s Eel Pie Island was a popular stopping-off point for steamer boat excursions up and down the Thames.
By the latter part of the 1800’s the Island had its own tavern – a bowling green – a boat house plus an in-demand hotel and it was also the location of the Thames Electric & Steam Works Company.
Up until the late 1800’s Eel Pie Island was only accessible by boat – and a little ferry service used to run 24/7 from the northern banks of the Thames at Twickenham.
In 1830 the Eel Pie Island-Hotel was built – making the Island a more a popular destination for visitors and day trippers.
Eel Pie Island even gets a mention in Charles Dickens famous ‘Nichols Nickleby’ novel.
It wasn’t until 1889 that proposals were put forward to build a bridge from the Twickenham shores to the Island – to enable people and especially goods/services to get on and off the Island easily.
In 1898 a ballroom with a sprung floor, was built alongside the Hotel – making the Island a ‘go to’ place for Tea Dance events with bands and orchestras playing.
The Island became the home of the Twickenham Rowing Club – the oldest rowing club on the River Thames.
Because of its popularity, in the 1930’s the Eel Pie Island Hotel underwent several upgrades – and it became a 3-storey building.
Over the next couple of decades Eel Pie Island started to lose some of its popularity and wasn’t frequented much – almost forgotten about outside of its local community.
However, in 1951 a new owner of the Eel Pie Island Hotel had a go at starting up putting om ‘live’ music events again and secured a residency of the Grove Jazz Band – and the Island slowly started to become popular again.
When the ‘Trad Jazz’ music fashion kicked-in – Eel Pie Island started to attract ‘teenagers’ from far and wide. Hundreds of art students – beatniks – trad-jazz fans – plus general sight see’ers – would frequent the Island every week – and as a result of the Island’s popularity, all the top trad-jazz acts from the UK, all wanted to play the Eel Pie Island Hotel.
Income from this massive increase in visitors helped finance the construction of a new bridge.
Come 1962 – and the Eel Pie Island Hotel took a bit of a risk and put on a couple of “Twist Night’s” – just to see how this new music trend would go down with its trad-jazz regulars.
By 1963 word had got around about this so called ‘Rhythm & Blues’ group that were creating a lot of attention and going down a storm at the nearby Railway Hotel in Richmond, just a little way along the River from Twickenham.
In April 1963, much to the disgust and annoyance of its jazz regulars – the Eel Pie Island hotel took a big risk and booked this very young rhythm & blues band – to do a few consecutive gigs on the Island.
That band were the “Rolling Stones” – and (as can be seen from the Eel Pie Island Hotel’s gig-list) the rest, as they say is history.
Almost immediately following the Stones very first appearances on
the Island – the place went mental. Every time they appeared there would be teenagers from all over the country, queuing across the bridge and right back into the Twickenham town streets – attempting to get onto the Island to see the Stones – Eel Pie Island was literally constantly overflowing with punters.
Once again, the Eel Pie Island Hotel became a massive draw – which attracted more and more of the top 60’s bands to want to play there. The Island was looked upon as one of London’s top music venues which bands from all over the UK wanted to play.
Apart from the Stones, another of Eel Pie Island’s top draw acts was ‘Long John Baldry & his Hoochie Coochie Men’. The late Long John Baldry was a massive influence on the British rhythm & blues scene and a number of today’s music icons, served their apprenticeships with the likes of Long John Baldry – Elton John and Rod Stewart to name just a couple.
Very soon the trad-jazz bands had gone way out of fashion, and bands like John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers (featuring Eric Clapton – then Jimmy Page – then Jeff Beck) / The Yardbirds / Steampacket/ Geno Washington & the Ram Jam Band / Pink Floyd / David Bowie & the Lower Third / The Mojos – and as the 60’s progressed you had the likes of Cream / 10 Years After / Free / Dep Purple Joe Cocker / Hawkwind / Black Sabbath / Genesis and the Who – were regularly playing the Eel Pie Island Hotel, and drawing in hundred and hundreds of punters from far and wide
However – I guess all good things come to an end, and by the late 1960’s there was growing pressure from locals for the Eel Pie Island Hotel to be shut down for Health & Safety reasons, as the building was deemed non-compliant to H&S standards. This pressure became more and more prevalent, and the £200k+ costs to renovate the Hotel ballroom to the now require H&S laws and
regulations, was simply not affordable.
So – in November 1970, the Eel Pie Island Hotel hosted its very last gig, when the band ‘Quintessence’ played there and brought a close to the venue’s amazing and legendary history.
For the next couple of years Eel Pie Island transformed itself into a sort of hippie commune and a hang-out for anarchists.
In 1971 the Eel Pie Island Hotel site was entirely destroyed by a mysterious fire.
In 1996, the entire centre of the island was devastated by a fire and a year later, the only footbridge to the island was damaged by a utility services contractor.
In 1998 a new footbridge onto the Island was constructed.
Today – Eel Pie Island consists of roughly: –
- 50 private homes
- 120 inhabitants
- 3 boat yards
- A couple of small businesses and art studios
- A protected Nature Reserve
London Shoes thoroughly enjoyed discovering and venturing onto the Island, even though you are very restricted as to where you can wander off to within the Island area.
But for me – the absolute highlight of London Shoes’ day down in Twickenham – was visiting the fantastic “Eel Pie Island Museum” – without doubt, for me personally, one of the most interesting and enjoyable museums I’ve ever visited – it ticked every box on my ‘how bloody good is this’ list.
The Eel Pie Island Museum is located in an old 1913 built cinema building in Richmond Road-Twickenham, just a short stroll inland from Eel Pie Island itself.
The museum’s founder and creator is an amazing lady by the name of ‘Michele Whitby’.
Michelle is a local lady who I believe lives on a houseboat moored up on Eel Pie Island.
She has been involved in the history of this tiny little island for a few decades now and has a real passion for all things Eel Pie Island and its unique special place in British music history – so much so that Michele has even co-authored books about the Island and its connections to the British beat explosion.
With support from volunteers / crowdfunding initiatives / business sponsorship plus a couple of grants – Michele Whitby was able to officially open her Eel Pie Island Museum to the public in 2018 – the opening ribbon being cut by the famous inventor of the ‘clockwork radio’ Trevor Bayliss – a former Eel Pie Island resident and very much a local ‘face’ – who’s CV includes him being a professional swimmer / a stuntman / a circus performer as well as a very famous inventor and entrepreneur.
Anyway – as soon as you walk in the door of the Eel Pie Island Museum you are surrounded by artifacts/memorabilia/story boards and of course photos and paintings relating to the Island – and its incredible history – everywhere you look there is something of interest.
For me – being a music nutter, and having published loads of music related articles on my London Shoes website and its other social media feeds – visiting the Eel Pie Island Museum was like I’d died and gone to heaven – every nook and crannie was full of stuff there that caught my interest – from the Island’s early days as a haven for Jazz then Trad Jazz and right through to its massive influence on the beat music scene, and how that influence is still being felt today.
On one wall is an entire list of ALL the acts that have ever performed at the old Eel Pie Island Hotel venue – it makes fascinating reading as it sort of evidences the evolution of British popular music culture.
There are literally hundreds of old photos of the performers and bands on the stage of the old Ballroom – including the Stones now legendary first gigs there.
The Eel Pie Island Museum isn’t just about its musical heritage – there are old aerial photos of the Island, where you can compare the transformation from what he was then to what it is now – as well as references and artifacts charting the history of the Island’s old boat yards and rowing clubs
As I say – for a London history geek, and a music history fanatic like me– this little museum is just pure gold.
One of the volunteers working there on the day of my visit was a lovely lady by the name of ‘Fluff’ – a real character and such a pleasure to talk to. From the stories Fluff was telling me, I would guess that she must be approaching 80 or in her early 80’s. Being a big trad-jazz fan Fluff used to regularly frequent Eel Pie Island in 1950’s and early 60’s – where she used to dance the night away. She tells the story of how angered her and her friends were at this band called the Rolling Stones turned up to play their rhythm & blues stuff a few nights running in April 1962 – telling their ‘singer’ that they weren’t happy about them being there and that they didn’t rate them as a group anyway !!! – such an interesting lady. 
Another clever little touch that impressed me about this Museum, was that they had an old skool record player with a box of albums by bands/artists that had played the Eel Pie Island ballroom – which visitors to the museum are free to select what ever album they want and bung it on the turntable – I dug out an album by Long John Baldry and listened to it whilst I was strolling around the displays.
The hard work and devotion that the curator Michele Whitby has undertaken to get the Eel Pie Museum to where it is today, is both remarkable and commendable – and it is clearly appreciated, reading the feedback and comments submitted by visitors from all 4 corners of the globe.
Whether you’re heavily into popular music history or not, the Eel Pie Island Museum is, in my opinion – well worth a visit – and – even though its approx. an hour & a half train trek across London for me – will most certainly be returning to Twickenham to enjoy another browse around the Museum.
Throughout what was a long day down by the River, under very sunny London skies – I was accompanied by Pete, my old mate of 40+ years – and before we headed off on the long trek back to the east of London – we decided to check out a couple of ‘Twickers’ pubs and have some liquid refreshment.
Down by the footbridge over to Eel Pie Island on the northern banks of the Thames, is a pub called the ‘Barmy Arms’ – which apparently is a very popular pub on Rugby match days – so we had a ‘cheeky’ Guinness in there. We then ventured to ‘The Fox’ situated in the very picturesque Church Street – and had a couple of pints of the dark stuff in there too – before heading off to Twickenham overground station to start the journey back home – after a really enjoyable day out.
Hope you enjoyed finding out all about Eel Pie Island and its amazing Eel Pie Island Museum.
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Below is the entire gallery of photographs taken to support this Eel Pie Island blog
Eel Pie Island is an 8.9 acre island just off the northern banks of the River Thames at Twickenham – way down in deepest southwest London.
The River Thames – with Twickenham on the left and Eel Pie Island on the right
The River Thames – with Twickenham on the left and Eel Pie Island on the right
The River Thames – with Twickenham on the right and Eel Pie Island on the left
Down on the Thames at Twickenham – with the footbridge crossing the River and on to Eel Pie Island in the background
Down on the Thames at Twickenham – with the footbridge crossing the River and on to eel Pie Island
Me – on the northern banks of the Thames at Twickenham – with the footbridge to Eel Pie Island in the background
Long before the construction of its first footbridge – a little ferry service got folks – goods – services on and off Eel Pie Island
The footbridge leading from the banks of the Thames at Twickenham on to Eel Pie Island
Me – on the footbridge that connects Eel Pie Island with the Twickenham river bank – the only way on and off Eel Pie Island
Entering Eel Pie Island – off of the footbridge
A public notice as you enter Eel Pie Island
The ‘layout’ map of Eel Pie Island
The Eel Pie Island Hotel – was once the most well known and popular building on the Island
On Eel Pie Island
Me – on Eel Pie Island
On Eel Pie Island
On Eel Pie Island
On Eel Pie Island
Me – on the Eel Pie Island footbridge – with the Island in the background.
Me (& my mate Pete) on the Eel Pie Island footbridge
There are a couple of what I call ‘story boards’ on display down by Eel Pie Island, that reference its iconic influence on popular music as we know it today.
The highlight of my ‘London Shoes’ brilliant day down in Twickenham – was visiting the fantastic “Eel Pie Island Museum” – without doubt (for me) – one of the most interesting and enjoyable museums I’ve ever visited – it ticked every box on my ‘how bloody good is this’ list.
The Eel Pie Island Museum is housed in an old 1913 built cinema building in Richmond Road-Twickenham – just a short stroll inland from Eel Pie Island itself.
Me – outside the Eel Pie Island Museum
A 1930’s aerial view of Eel Pie Island – with Twickenham to the right and Ham to the left
Anyway – as soon as you walk in the door of the Eel Pie Island Museum you are surrounded by artifacts/memorabilia/story boards and of course photos and paintings relating to the Island – and its incredible history – everywhere you look there is something of interest.
A fantastic mural depicting Eel Pie Island – displayed on the wall, as you enter the Museum.
Throughout Eel Pie Island Museum you are surrounded by artifacts/memorabilia/story boards and of course photos and paintings relating to the Island – and its incredible history – everywhere you look there is something of interest.
The Eel Pie Island Museum isn’t just about the Island’s musical heritage – there are old aerial photos of the Island, where you can compare the transformation from what he was then to what it is now – as well as references and artifacts charting the history of the Island’s old boat yards and rowing clubs
Inside Eel Pie Island Museum
Me – inside Eel Pie Island Museum
Inside Eel Pie Island Museum
When the ‘Trad Jazz’ music fashion kicked-in – Eel Pie Island started to attract ‘teenagers’ from far and wide. Hundreds of art students – beatniks – trad-jazz fans – plus general sight see’ers – would frequent the Island every week – and as a result of the Island’s popularity, all the top trad-jazz acts from the UK, all wanted to play the Eel Pie Hotel.
The Museum’s memorabilia and references to the jazz and trad-jazz days on Eel Pie Island
Inside the Eel Pie Island Museum, an entire wall is dedicated to documenting every band/group/performer that ever played the eel Pie Island Hotel
In April 1963, much to the disgust and annoyance of its jazz regulars – the Eel Pie Island hotel took a big risk and booked this very young rhythm & blues band – to do a few consecutive gigs on the Island. That band were the “Rolling Stones” – and (as can be seen from the Eel Pie Island Hotel’s gig-list) the rest, as they say is history.
An archived photo in the Eel Pie Island Museum collection – that captures the Rolling Stones on stage at the Eel Pie Island Hotel – (note the backdrop mural)
An exact replica of the original stage backdrop – is displayed in the Eel Pie Island Museum.
The late Long John Baldry – who was a massive influence on the British rhythm & blues scene for a number of today’s music icons – regularly played Eel Pie Island. Several of today’s music icons served their apprenticeships playing with Long John Baldry – Elton John and Rod Stewart to name just a couple.
An old promo photo on display in the Museum of the band ‘Steampacket’ – a band that consisted of Eel Pie Island regulars ‘Long John Baldry – Rod Stewart – Brian Auger – Julie Driscoll
Throughout the Eel Pie Island Museum there are hundreds of fantastic old photos – that perfectly tell the story of what was known globally as the ‘British Beat Boom’
One of the walls inside the Museum highlights every performer/band/group that ever played ‘Eel Pie Island’ – from its conception in the early 1950’s – right through to its demise in 1970
An old photo on display in the Museum of the late Charlie Watts – of the Rolling Stones
A pop-art visual on display inside the eel Pie Island Museum
An archive photo on display in the Museum of the late Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones
Another archive photo on display in the Museum is of a very young Rod Stewart – where legend has it, was discovered by the late great Long John Baldry – playing harmonic on Twickenham train station platform.platform
Me – inside the fascinating Eel Pie Island Museum
David Bowie’s early ‘Mannish Boys’ band – were just one of the many ‘future’ music icons – that performed on Eel Pie Island
Me – inside the excellent eel Pie Island Museum
Another nice little touch that impressed me about this Museum, was the old skool record player with a box of albums by bands/artists that had played the Eel Pie Island ballroom. Visitors to the museum are free to select whatever album they want and bung it on the turntable
Inside the Eel Pie Island Museum – a nice little touch in tribute to the late Stones legendary drummer ‘Charlie Watts’
Me – inside the brilliant Eel Pie Island Museum – sitting in front of the replica of the original Eel Pie Island ballroom stage backdrop
‘Live’ music continued being performed on Eel Pie Island, right through to the very end of the 1960’s.
Me – enjoying the ambiance of the amazing Eel Pie Island Museum
Me – with Eel Pie Island creator & curator ‘Michele Whitby’ and her amazing assistant ‘Fluff’!!!
The 400 hundred year old ‘Barmy Arms’ pub on the banks of the Thames at Twickenham – and 1st stopping off place for a refreshing ‘cheeky’ Guinness
Me – and my long time mate Pete – knocking back a couple of Guinness’s in the ‘Barmy Arms’ pub – on the northern banks of the Thames at Twickenham
‘The Fox’ pub in Church Street-Twickenham – the 2nd watering hole visited in ‘Twickers’!! There’s been a pub on the site since the late 1600’s
Me – necking down another ‘cheeky’ Guinness – in ‘The Fox’ pub – Twickenham – following a great day out, exploring Eel Pie Island & the Eel Pie Island Museum.
Nice one Geoff. I had exactly this same day out earlier in the year, and enjoyed talking at length to Michelle at EPI Museum while waiting for my mates to turn up. She’s an impressive lady, and deserves wider recognition for the creation and management of the museum.
Real rock history there Geoff. Imagine seeing the Stones there in the 60’s !
That’s the best article yet Geoff – a brilliant read
Such a history , I’ve walked where you walked in the photos but was unaware of the museum – one for the list
Great research
Awesome. Never heard of the place. Sounds fascinating. xx
Nice one Geoff Clements. Keep ‘em coming
Great post as usual mate
Another excellent piece Geoff. What a venue to see the Stones. It was a sports stadium where I had the pleasure of seeing them perform
Terrific! Didn’t know any of this,did I ever live in London? From your blogs I don’t think I did! Loved this one.
Very interesting
Great post, did the same thing a few years ago but the museum was closed, could be time for another trip there.
Oh, you came saaf! Good one & well overdue. Can I ask have you been to god own junkyard yet? Did I miss that?
Fantastic stuff again ❤️
Great blog Geoff👍
Thanks so much for your piece on Eel Pie Island. Always wanted to go there.
Really interesting as always, and your love and knowledge of music is very evident.
It might have taken you a little longer than usual to publish – but it was certainly worth the wait – and I see that there are good comments arriving already.
Well done Geoff
Well done Geoff. You have reminded me to get my bucket list moving again on which is Eel Pie Island/ : Great write up on it. Very interesting
Bearing in mind your previous comments about ‘Jazz’, I thought you might particularly like this one Peter – glad you enjoyed it.
Geoff (www.londonshoes.blog)
Fantastic article.
Thank you – glad you enjoyed it.
Geoff (www.londonshoes.blog)
Thanks for writing this article – I was doing some research into a band my dad played in (Saints and Sinners) and saw on a search he played at Eel Pie Island and found your article. We are now planning a visit to the museum!
Hi Katherine,
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to contact me via my London Shoes website – really appreciate it, and so pleased to hear that you enjoyed my ‘Eel Pie Island’ blog – I certainly loved putting it together.
If you do get to visit Eel Pie Island and the museum, you certainly wont be disappointed.
If a lady known as ‘Fluff’ is working there on the day of your visit, be sure to mention your Dad’s band to her – as ‘Fluff’ used to frequent the venue on the Island back in the early 60’s and beyond – she may well remember the band.
Kind regards
GEOFF (www.londonshoes.blog)