The subject matter for this week’s publication on to the ‘London Shoes’ website, is to be the first of what will be a series of blogs on the topic of London’s “Historic & Notorious Alleys & Passages”
To kick-start this series I made my way down to the Spitalfields/Aldgate/Whitechapel districts of my good old East End, to seek out 5 “Historic & Notorious Alleys & Passages-of London E1”.
First up was a small alley tucked away in the streets of Spitalfields called White Rose Court.
“White Rose Court”
White Rose Court first appears on a London street map of 1720.
Today, the alley is nothing much to write home about – but a couple of centuries ago, when Spitalfields was a notorious slum area, inhabited by mainly Jewish immigrants – White Rose Court was the location of 2 of the oldest and iconic Jewish bakeries in London – Levy Bros and Matzo’s.
To commemorate the fact that these famous bakeries operated from there, 4 wonderful statues of bakers going about their business, are embedded in an external wall – sadly above a burger bar.
“Artillery Passage”
Also located in the Spitalfields district – Artillery Passage first appeared on a London street map way back in 1677, and is very close to where ‘Jack the Ripper’ murdered his last victim Mary Kelly.
Back in Tudor times, the entire Spitalfields area was just open fields sitting just outside the City Walls.
Henry VIII commandeered the land and turned it into a military training ground for his troops (hence the ‘artillery’ reference).
The streets Georgian houses and shop fronts were built in the early 1700’s, and some of these original properties with their door and window structures and shutters, still remain.
At the very end of Artillery Passage is ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – which is London’s ‘oldest’ shop front. It was built in 1670 and renovated in 1756 when it was occupied by immigrant Huguenot silk weavers – and this is the very same building which stands today. It has been granted Grade 1 listed status, which means that both its interior and exterior have to be preserved for future generations.
“Puma Court”
This alley is also located in the Spitalfields district, and first appeared on a London street map, way back in 1677.
Historically, it is famous for being the location of the wonderfully preserved “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – a collection of Victorian cottages built in 1860, for the purpose of housing the poor amongst the fruit and wool workers who traded in the area.
The actual term ‘Liberty’ in this instance, is an old medieval word for ‘parish or area’.
These lovely old houses are still occupied today – but now sit within a ‘gated’ area. However, I was fortunate enough to gain access inside the ‘gates’, when a maintenance man working at the site, very kindly allowed me inside to take some photos.
Interestingly, ‘The Liberty of Norton Folgate’ was also the title of the last album released by the well-known London group ‘Madness’.
“Little Somerset Street”
This alley in the Aldgate district of E1, appears way back on a 1792 street map of London when it was known as “Blood Alley”.
It was named ‘Blood Alley’ because the alley and the area beyond, was full of ‘butchers shops‘.
The reason that these butchers located themselves there was because it was just outside the City Walls, and therefore they were able to avoid paying the extortionate tariffs that were charged by the authorities, for driving cattle through the square mile of the City.
Records and accounts from that time reveal that the alley was constantly flowing with blood from the livestock being slaughtered and butchered there.
‘Little Somerset Street’ (formerly Blood Alley) is also the location of the “Still & Star”, London’s last surviving ‘Slum Pub’ – the description that was given to a licenced premises that was once a private residential house.
The ‘Still & Star’ pub was opened in 1820 on a site where there were 8 butchers’ shops.
However, when I was there (during opening hours) it looked very much like the place was unoccupied and abandoned – so sadly, there was no chance of a necking down a ‘cheeky’ one there.
“Gunthorpe Street”
The final of the 5 alleys I sought out for this blog, appears on a London street map as far back as 1676 – when it was known as ‘George Yard’.
It was located in one of the poorest and roughest areas of Aldgate, London – with appalling slum housing occupied by the poorest of the poor – and an area where there was constant criminality such as muggings-stabbings-prostitution.
Some of the alleys old cobbled street still remains in situ – and today the brick arched entrance to the alley is decorated with glazed tiled murals (which could seriously do with a good old clean up) depicting the old Aldgate and Whitechapel areas.
Ironically, one of the surviving Victorian buildings in Gunthorpe Street – was once the “Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” which was built in 1886 – and for an area that was rife with crime, violence and prostitution, it seems a strange place to site a ‘Respectable Girls’ residence.
It was renamed ‘Gunthorpe Street’ in 1912, after a previous rector of the nearby St. Mary’s Church in Whitechapel.
This alley runs alongside the infamous “White Hart” pub, which was first opened back in 1721.
In 1888, just along the road from the pub – it was the site where ‘Martha Tabram’ was murdered by the infamous ‘Jack the Ripper’.
At the time of the ‘Ripper’ murders, one of the main suspects was Severin Klosowski (aka George Chapman), who ran a barber shop in the cellar of the White Hart.
So – having been an ‘alley cat’ all day – it was only right that I neck-down a couple of ‘cheeky’ ones in this infamous ‘White Hart’ pub.
Today the ‘White Hart’ understandably cashes-in on its ‘Ripper’ associations, with a number of decorative plaques and signs referring to old ‘Jack’, scattered throughout the bar and its exterior walls.
Hope you found this first ‘edition’ to what will be an on-going series of London’s historic “Alley’s & Passages” interesting and enjoyed the accompanying photos.
White Rose Court – Spitalfields E1 – the former site of 2 historic Jewish Bakeries
White Rose Court – Alley. Nothing much these days but over 200 years ago it was the site of 2 iconic Jewish bakeries
The 4 statues embedded into a first floor wall – on the corner of White Rose Court, Spitalfields – depicting the oldest Jewish bakeries that once operated from there over 200 years ago
A close-up of one of the ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1
A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1
A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1
A close-up of another of the 4 ‘Baker’ statues in White Rose Court, Spitalfield E1
Artillery Passage-Spitalfields, London E1 – An area that was once a military training site for Henry VIII’s troops
The old Georgian buildings down the alley that is “Artillery Passage”
Me – ambling down “Artillery Passage” – London E1
The old Georgian buildings down the alley that is “Artillery Passage”-London E1
More scenes from ‘Artillery Passage’-London E1
‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – which is London’s ‘oldest’ shop front – built in 1670 and renovated in 1756 when it was occupied by immigrant Huguenot silk weavers. This is the very same building which stands today.
Me – outside ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’ – London’s oldest existing shop front – a building that is now Grade 1 listed
Looking through the windows at the inside of ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’
Me – outside ‘No.56 Artillery Terrace’-Spitalfields, London E1
This alley is also located in the Spitalfields-London E1 district, and first appeared on a London street map, way back in 1677.
The “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – located in ‘Puma Court’, London E1 – A collection of Victorian cottages built in 1860, for the purpose of housing the poor amongst the fruit and wool workers who traded in the area.
Scenes from the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
Scenes from the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
The “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
Scenes from inside the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
Scenes from inside the gated community that is the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
Me – inside the gated community that is the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
More exterior views of the “Liberty of Norton Folgate Almshouses” – Puma Court-London E1
More street scenes of the Georgian architecture in ‘Puma Court’ – London E1
Street scenes of the Georgian architecture in ‘Puma Court’ – London E1
More street scenes from ‘Puma Court’ – London E1
“Little Somerset Street” – a very small alley situated in the Aldgate district of E1, appears way back on a 1792 street map of London when it was known as “Blood Alley”.
The alley that is “Little Somerset Street” Aldgate district of E1, once known as “Blood Alley”.
Me – in Little Somerset Street – Aldgate-London E1
‘Little Somerset Street’ (formerly Blood Alley) is also the location of the “Still & Star”, London’s last surviving ‘Slum Pub’ – the description that was given to a licenced premises that was once a private residential house.
Me – outside the “Still & Star” pub – located at the end of the ‘Little Somerset Street’ alley – Aldgate, London E1
A side view of the old ‘Still & Star’ pub – that was opened in 1820, on a site that also occupied 8 ‘butchers’ shops. You can clearly see its close proximity to the “City” – which is why all the butchers set up shop there, and why it was originally known as ‘Blood Alley’
A view from the entrance to the “Little Somerset Street” alley-London E1 – showing its close proximity to the ‘City’
“Gunthorpe Street”-Aldgate-London-E1. This alley first appeared on a London street map as far back as 1676 – when it was known as ‘George Yard’. It was located in one of the poorest and roughest areas of Aldgate, London – with appalling slum housing occupied by the poorest of the poor
“Gunthorpe Street”-Aldgate-London-E1.
The old cobbled path of Gunthorpe Street – Aldgate-London-E1
A surviving Victorian building in ‘Gunthorpe Street’ that was once the “Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” – built in 1886
“Sir George Residence for Respectable Girls” – built in 1886
Me – at the entrance of the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley – Aldgate-E1
The entrance to the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley is decorated with glazed tiled murals depicting life back in the day in the Aldgate and Whitechapel areas.
The entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley runs alongside the infamous “White Hart” pub, which was first opened back in 1721.
References to the infamous “Jack the Ripper” are on display throughout the interior and exterior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley
References to the infamous “Jack the Ripper” on display throughout the interior and of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley – London E1
There are many other references to bygone years on display throughout the interior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley
Other references to bygone years on display throughout the interior of the “White Hart” pub, next to ‘the ‘Gunthorpe Street’ alley
Inside the old “White Hart” pub – located at the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Alley’ – Aldgate-London-E1
Me – Inside the old “White Hart” pub
Neckin’ down a ‘cheeky’ beer in the “White Hart” pub – next to the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’-London E1
Neckin’ down a 2nd ‘cheeky’ one in the “White Hart” pub – next to the alley entrance to ‘Gunthorpe Street’-London E1
Thank you for posting this Geoff. A few years ago I started looking at family trees. Part of my Dad’s mother’s family came from Spitalfields and he made some reference to Huguenots but unfortunately so hard to find anything back beyond 1800. Love the market there. You can get some great food at sensible prices. Interesting that it was very much a slum area at one time and has become very trendy again.
Very interesting
Amazing amount of work Geoff. Excellent and unbelievably I find myself missing my old work area.
A colourful bit of history there Geoff- great stuff